Hi i bought a 1997 Prelude fully loaded base model used. it was 1.5 owner(i'll explain the half owner.) i've done enough research and i can't come across with viable answers.

i bought this car from a friend who bought the original owner with all the maintenance logs all the way to this car was brought from the dealership. fast forward he bought it from the owner took it to the dealership and they told him that they didn't know what was wrong and it would cost alot to figure it out. hence the owner sold it to my friend he hoping it was a quick fix and happy in finding a gem. it sat so long cause he couldn't figure out or fix the problem. i said **** it i buy it. the first thing i did was check was the engine code. it was a cylinder misfire. he thought it was a burnt valve.

and the spark plugs didn't look right when i pulled them, i knew automatically it wasn't good.



so i did a compression test after i got it.

1-105
2-95
3-0
4-105

so i've been doing quite a bit researching and searching for a semi new motor and well i've come across hitting a brick wall every time. so here's the problem.

i need a reliable DD cause my 91 Civic is down due to bent aftermarket cams. so i bought this Prelude thinking it would be a quick fix. while it is a quick fix i am still not sure. first it comes with a H22a4 motor i don't have the time at the moment to rebuild and it's not an option. i work 60hrs and drive 24hrs a week. so the quickest option is a motor swap.

i've been looking for a total car nope, nothing. i was looking for another H22a4 with out a rebuild nope none. so then my next option is buy a JDM motor this is where i come to some problems. a H23a is not an option due to it's auto. and the next thing is a H22a or a F20B. the H22a cost way to much that it would be almost the same amount i paid for the car.

so this is what i am looking for as in answers on the F20B. i am buying the complete engine, LSD transmission, wiring and ECU.


please i am not trying to be a dick so don't say, "why? or do this." i am looking for strong answers.

what will be the problem i will encounter?

i understand the F20b is somewhat the same as the H22/A4 how?

how can i fix the key immobilizer problem?

can i do the swap and run it with the stock F20B ECU or do i have to retune it?

is there any axle problems?

any shift linkage problems?

most of all i here i am going to have a hard time finding parts, like what?

and what parts can i buy to replace these parts?

i will say i am not a noob to JDM motors i have a JDM DOHC ZC in my 91 civic hb so i understand that these kind of swaps are not easy and can have a major headache with them. but for some reason it seems that i end up with these swap cause there no really reason why. it just happen. lol.

here's the 1997 Prelude.



thank you and please any info to help me do this swap will be helpful i will be buying the F20B complete engine next week and i need to get this started asap.

thank you again


remo

 

question, why is the h23a a problem (thought you were just going for a quick fix)
that motor and your base trans would be a direct replacement. no ecu problems..

now since i dont own a f20b. im guessing that the casting (F & H)for both should be roughly the same. so i dont think that you would have axle problem, nor shiftlinkage problems..

 

fit wise you'll have no probs,
i was running a h22 in my race car then swapped to f20b.
you need to swap the end engine mount over where it bolts to the block with the lude one, axles will all fit, as will shifter cables. sorry i cant help with the electrical side as i'm on stand alone with itb's.
if you need to know anything else i'll try and answer mate

 

I have a question about the F20b...are internal parts such as camshafts, retainers, etc. interchangeable with H22a?

 

Yeah all compatible. only the inlet valves are smaller by 1mm.

 

car looks clean. I would get a bluetop H23 for it.

 

ok cool. another question...when ppl say the F20b is "destroked", what exactly is meant by that?

 

I have an F20B in my Prelude. gotta use h22 intake manifold because of sensors... and ill take those mudflaps my good sir

 

h23 are downgrades. ONLY good thing is the torque. RPM redline at like 6500, and they really aren't that great.

 

H23 VTEC is what he meant if im not mistaken. Big difference from a h23 NON-VTEC

 

Still, an H23 really isn't worth it unless it's a car that doesn't get run hard at all. My friend just put a JDM h23 Vtec in his prelude and regretes it majorly.

 

F20b isn't really a destroked h22. Its quite a bit more than that. yes head is almost identical with only diff being the inlet valves. the bottom end is a smaller bore. shorter stroke and has steel liners instead of frm ones. the rods are more beefy and the rod to stroke ratio is better than h22. there is alto of theory that it was a test bed for s2000 engines but cannot be sure of this.
one thing i can say though is that most people that diss the f20b have never driven one.

 

Destroked,

Debored,

Smaller valves,

Crippled, euthanized, etc, etc.

There is a reason they sell for less than H22s.

 

I dont have to worry about my cylinder walls tearing up my piston rings.

 

I had a h22 in my racer and it didn't last 2 meetings and spun a bearing. i know it could have been coincidence but the stock f20b has lasted a full season .

 

Thank you everyone for the input. I decided to swap heads for now. I just bought a rebuild, port and polish head of eBay for $450 shipped I'm gonna see this first and do a bit more research. Really the truth be told I'm really not sure what to do.

 

You sound like a B series fanboy.....lol
You obviously enjoy the TQless motor, and think OEM Iron sleeves is THE answer to everything......They're not......
Using forged pistons in stock sleeves is cheaping out, and not doing it the Right Way the 1st time.
My FRM has suited me just fine through 8500rpm & 100 shot of nitrous.......
OEM iron is possibly the single most over-rated thing a Honda has to offer.......