So I changed the timing belt on the HypeR today and I'm starting to see some wear on the aluminum crank pulley. It needs to come off. New Honda $155 ish with new bolt and key. A ATI from summit is $335.

I like the idea of a damper, because I'm trying to stretch as much life as possible from this 130k mile motor. I have turned the rev limit back to stock, and have a stock flywheel and stockish clutch. All stock stuff should eliminate the possibilities of weird harmonics the dampers are suppose to eliminate.

I don't want any more aftermarket, no way to hold the thing while you take the bolt out crap.

So spend the extra cash, to what benefit?

 

i'd post in drag forum....they might have more info on this....

 

i love my harmonic damper.

it kept my engines from dying every 1000 miles from dead main bearings (3 dead engines with a tiny 3" pulley)


keeps bearings in absolutely wonderful shape.


probably not necessary or you, not a bad idea either.

 

Hmm i put on an aluminum one... car feels good... but hmm now you guys have me worried....

Then again the engine is seeping oil right now so it may be time for an overhaul finally

 

my monster Fluidampr might have sapped a few HPs...but its kept the bottom end in the car for about 35-40 track days and several thousand street miles. (both configurations, NA/Turbo).... even revvvved it WAY too high too many times going into "Patience" at autobahn south too many times the last couple years.


there is something pretty wild about a good damper.

 

I'm rockin the ctr N1 pulley on my b18c, see how it goes. Have lowered the rev limit to 8250. I plan on keeping it. Maybe do a oil pump replacement this winter.

 

i went with ati and i like it.

 

ati/fluidampr both absorb vibrations(harmonics)....ctr pulley,aluminum pulleys they dont absorb vibrations and many people end up breaking oil pumps...

 

How bout a stock type replacement?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-80053/

 

Yeah read up on this... I'm going to switch back to my stock one... However I would like to pick up a single-belt harmonic balancer or something with some dampening.

 

<-- Has been using CTR single row pulley's for the past 6-7 years and never had an issue. Multiple track days, daily driving, drag racing...etc..etc. @ 9400 rpm rev limiter.

 

stock gsr one on mine will be going to a Fluidampr soon

 

I ordered on of these, they even have a type-r specific part. So, all nice and stockish.

 

I've never heard of a bearing or oil pump failure that was attributed to a swapped pulley where assembly error was not out of the question. The first build on my lTR motor had bearing damage due to overtightened accessory belts and timing belt. Left unchecked, the bearings would have failed. Damage was done in under 10k miles. Zero bearing wear since with a UR crank pulley. My other two motors were both d and one has gone over 300k and the other is probably over 40k now. Heavily autocrossed and both are still running strong.

 

i am huge believer that ATI Dampers save oil pumps and engines -- specifically using our drag racing experience as proof most people that have oil pump issues are generally using OEM crank pullies -- the ATI dampers are a great investment for overall longevity of your engine

 

Crank dampers are very important. I'm not an expert on the subject, but I do know that manufactures spend time tuning the crank damper for EACH engine model the produce. Every rotating assemble will have harmonics at particular speeds unique to its mass and design (depends on crank offset weighting, rod and piston weights, etc). The damper must be designed specifically for that engine and is designed to damp out that particular rotating assemblies harmonics. I would be hesitant to run any non-oem damper as it was not engineered specifically for that engine. In fact, it could potentially make the harmonics WORSE (natural frequencies, etc - kind of like pushing a kid on a swingset, each push makes the kid swing higher and higher - the opposite of what you want if you're trying to minimize harmonics). Oem damper ftw.

 

After reading this, my next engine build will use an ATI Damper instead of the OEM Pulley.

 

I found this article that gives a pretty good description of the vibration modes
experienced by the crank. I looked for Honda specific information years ago but never found anything published.
http://sem-proceedings.com/25i/sem.o...dy-Dynamic.pdf

 

Nice find, pasaunde.

 

I am just curious how tight you made the belts to cause damage and wear like that lol. What did you use a pry bar to pull the alternator back further and then tightened it? Same with powersteering there is just a little wing nut type deal that draws it tight. I go by hand then maybe grab pliers and do maybe a half twist.

 

I think any oem or aftermarket dampener will work if you have it balanced with the rotating assembly... Why take a chance of bad harmonics when you have the option to have it in perfect balance regardless of what dampener u use? Just my two cents, i run ctr single with fully balanced and blueprinted bottom end. Flywheel, crank, rods, and pulley...

 

Well, I didn't do it, whoever worked on it for the previous owner did. Ironically, they overtightened the timing belt and accessory belts, but didn't bother to tighten the bolts for the trans mount.

If you're using pliers to tighten the p/s belt, you're most likely over tightening it. It is very easy to over tighten the alternator belt, and if you give that extra push on the tb tensioner, you probably over tightened that too. Keep in mind, most engine wear occurs at startup, so any extra pressure will push the oil film out while the car sits overnight. The next morning you start it up, and in that split second before the oil pressure gets back to those journals, the bearing will wear.

BTW, I've looked at a couple P30 heads and ALL of them had the cam journal galling that my head has. So, the number of overtightened timing belts is probably a LOT higher than you think.

 

What is the level of flex that there should be on the accessory belts? Like push with your finger how much should it flex?

 

Can't remember off hand, but it is in the service manual.

 

I picked up one of these from Summit for my DD B20 project. It was backordered for a couple of weeks but came in today:





Looks decent enough and fits like it should, thats about all the review I can give for now. We'll see how it lasts.