Ok, I have everything I need to install my Type-R rear sway bar... I'm moving to a nice new place with a big garage at the end of the month and I was going to wait to do the install there, but I don't want to wait until then to try my new mod out. So, I may be installing it tomorrow or Sunday in a parking space and the weather may suck...

Does this install typically take a long time? I remember Volcom saying that Dr RABGSR's took like 4 hours, but he didn't say why it took that long. What is the most time consuming part? Any difficult parts? Any tips/tricks? Thanks!

 

Nope, mine went very easy. Did you get the BSQ reinforcement kit?

 

Sure did.

 

Tips:
Get the car off the ground. Dr GAB01GSR and I had a hell of a time trying to get his car high enough off the ground to work under it.

Make sure you have everything you need before you start. We didn't have a drill bit the right size so off the parts store in the middle of the install. That's fine if you have another car but a PITA if you don't

Follow the directions carefully. Both DOC and I didn't put the large washer on the inside of the subframe (I corrected that today at home). If you need any advice, come ask it here because everyone here has done the mod and we are all pros at the ITR rear swaybar

Getting the tack welded nuts off are the toughest thing in my opinion. Mine came off fine do the fact that I had a huge mallet and when we did DrRAB01GSR's we only had a small 14 oz hammer. Get a big hammer and hit it once or twice rather than a small hammer and hit it 40.

Good luck and have fun
Aaron

 

Just be careful of the ABS lines.

Enjoy, this is a great mod.

 

Well, I decided to install my Type-R rear sway bar today and I'm glad I did! I just got back from trying it out and it's awesome! I thought my car handled good before, but this makes a huge difference. I was flying through curves and tire squeeling has been dramatically reduced, even on my bald 14's.

My stock 13mm rear sway bar looks and feels like a paper clip compared to the Type-R 22mm bar. And the best part is that it only cost me $116 shipped for everything I need (including the BSQ kit). Installation was a breeze and only took me 2 hours, but I know I could have saved some time in a few places. Definately a great mod.

As for getting the car off the ground, I went to Walmart and got some ramps for $16, then I just backed my car up onto them. They worked wonderfully.

 

I had a few questions.....about putting the bar on
Well I got everything off, and went to put the bar on, noticed I did not have the right "U" bracket and bushings, so I ordered them...but my main question is what size nuts do I use on the bottom ABS whole? and after I make the whole bigger how do i put it on since i am tearing the existing threading thats in there...so if you could just hit me up on PM that would be great, I get the parts tuesday TIA

1. what size bolt goes into the new ABS whole
2. How do i keep it in there since there is no more thread after making it bigger
3. Why am I such a dumbass



[Modified by AcuraRacer112, 4:56 PM 10/6/2002]

 

I followed BSQ's recommendation and used a 8x35 mm bolt with a washer and 8mm flange nut on the back.

You'll find a list of all the parts you need as well as installation instructions at BSQ's site: http://www.geocities.com/bretq/

 

I'm glad you got it on ok. Welcome to the ITR rear swaybar club, now you must drive your car a little more carefully. No letting off the gas pedal or braking about the corners. Have fun
Aaron

 

No letting of the gas, or braking around corners? this only in wet conditions? or high speed? how safe is it on the highway?

jason..who sleeps with his itr bar under his bed

 

I'm not really sure what was meant by that. I brake, let up, mash the throttle...all on the same turn sometimes.

The ITR bar just made my car feel as though I was being pushed around corners...if that makes any sense. I can turn exactly like with the stock paper clip...er anti-sway bar, except now I can do it faster, sharper, and more confidently. This is the best mod I ever made to my car. Though the Crower cams have certainly come close.

 

Hehe, thats for sure, I just recently installed my type r sway bar, I sharp corners


heh anyways, here are a few things that made my install suck:

Since I stay up all night, and have **** to do during the day, i started my install around 10 pm. I had a rear lower tie bar on before......so i had to take off the lower control arm bolts, it sucked getting them back on, i had to have a friend pull up as hard as he can to position the control arm right to put the bolt back on.....ANYWAYS, I pissed off a few people banging a hammer that late, so it was hard to bang hard and be quiet, but after i got the welded nuts off, it wasnt so bad, just hard to get everything in the right position considering i had to do it all by myself at that point. (my friend wussed out and went to sleep right after we got the bolts back in the lower control arm)


Just make sure you loosen the brackets for the endlinks, i had a fun time getting the bolts through.

All in all, the time and effort was well worth it, I love the way the car handles now. Just make sure you have someone help you do it!

 

So you haven't taken the car to the limit yet huh? Just try it one time at an autocross and you will see what I mean. I had the rear end of my car rotate about 110 degrees around on me after a hard right hand 90 degree corner.

 

It's fine on the highways. It's fine in wet weather. The only thing I have heard is driving in snow will be a little bit trickier and will take some getting used to.

Aaron

 

hehe, i pushed my car to its limits, i got that rear end way around, it was sweet, but it was the first time i ever lost control, heh ended up in the grass......

 

I did the mod a while ago (during summer) and I just thought I'd post this link, which shows how to install the sway bar, step by step process. Their method of knocking off the welded nuts was somewhat helpful for me, anyways heres the link and try not to let go of the gass while pushing the car to its limits in a turn or the rear will come out before you know it.

http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/swaybar.php

 

Sure have. Didn't fishtail though. Seems harder to spin out with a much thicker bar to me. As far as snow goes. I live in MI, I drive the teg all year. The bar did not change the cars handling on snow/ice any more than it did on any other road surface. The ITR bar has been a win/win for me thus far, and yes I have pushed the car hard around corners at speed, I was dam glad I had the ITR bar, rather than the stock GSR bar.

 

I think the oversteer danger is just because the bigger rear sway bar holds the back tires down good, but when you decelerate, the weight balance moves forward and the rear tire contact patches get smaller. So, you could be making the rear sway bar work really hard, then tap the brakes and your rear contact patches will get too small to hold it and it'll come out on you. The bigger rear bar allows you to push the car harder around curves/corners, but it can't help you if you take the weight away from the rear end. It should only make a difference in agressive driving. Well, that's my theory anyways.

 

can you guys send me and email where i can get a hold of everything i need. im getting 5 lug conversion soon and the sway bar isnt included and i would like to do this mod as well so someone hit me up! chameleon@jdmvtec.com thanks

 

All the info is at BSQ's site: http://www.geocities.com/bretq/

It's a pretty easy and straightforward install. And there's a parts list and link to where to get them on his page.

 

Yeah oversteer is a problem in this situation, but you're not supposed to jam on the brake in that situation. Blipping the brake and punching the throttle will keep you in control of the car. Least in my experience.

 

im about to do this mod next week and im fairly confident on how to do it(ive had to replace my trailing arm and lca before). the only part im woried on is knocking the welded nuts off.
according to the instructions i take the bolt that in there half way out and then hit it with a hammer/malet. by doing that wouldnt i just knock it back into place? or do i hit it down or something? also when i put the new nut in, how do i get it behind the subframe, is there enough space there for your fingers to reach in and hold the nut and guide the washer thru?
thanks

 

I'm gonna do this mod real soon too. But I don't understand why you have to take off the welded nuts off. What goes in place of it, and is there a picture you guys can show?

 

The welded nuts really aren't hard. I just unthreaded the bolt half way and hit it hard several times with a hammer. As you break the weld, it'll get all crooked, but just keep hitting it. When it's done, all you have to do is unthread the bolt and the previously welded nut will just come off and fall to the ground.

There is enough space to use your fingers to put the washer and new nut into place. What I did was push on the bolt with one hand so it would stick through the other side a bit, then with the other hand I put the washer on and threaded the nut a little. I was using a socket to push on the bolt, so I just used my wrench to hold the nut and tightened it with the socket.

 

Well, the bolt you use for the Type-R bar's bracket/bushing is a bit larger than the bolt that originally went in that hole... So you have to break the welded nut off, enlarge the hole with a drill, then use a nut that matches the size of the new bolt.