So i am doing my first track day this weekend @ Portland International Raceway..

My car is totally not setup for a track day but i am doing it because i have always wanted to and it seems like fun...

I will turn the car down as low as it can do which is about 400whp lol...


Anyway, i need some brake pads... I have always ran Hawk HPS on my car for the street and 1/4 but i know they will not be enough for this weekend..

I was looking into the Hawk HP10's for this weekend.....

Any suggestions would be great..

 

You may get flammed since there are a million of these threads, but I just ran HT-10 last week for the first time. I thought they where excellent.

Really did not need any major warm up time, good inital bite that was linear with pressure and easy to modulate. I ran with Re-11's/205 width on my Type R and if I smashed the pedal I could lock them up. I could not have been happier with them. I got mine for 142 shipped BNIB and thought it was a great price. I think they are a perfect pad for those not running R comps or slicks. Any more bite on a car around a similar weight and you will lock up the tires.

 

Flame sute was on already since im bringing out a drag car to road race

Thank you fro the help tho, that was the kind of response i was looking for.. i will probably get a pair of those!

 

If you have 400 whp and stock brake hardware, hps pads are NOT going to cut it, even for your first track day. I'd look to something that can actually take some temperature, like the dtc-60.

 

I was told the HP-10's hold decent heat, maybe not enough?

I also cant go above 100mph for the first 4 secession's...

 

That's a bummer. Proly not a bad idea though.

For comparison: http://andrew-racing.com/file/630-Ha...ison+chart.pdf

 

Well about 2 months ago some Subie looped out into the wall the first secession.. I have to take an instructor with me so i am kind of excited i get some kind of guidance lol

Thanks for the chart!

 

You're welcome. Instructors are great! I couldn't imagine doing my first track day and to not have had one. Have fun.

 

Thanks i am looking forward.. Again my car is not setup at all for it but i'm doing be because ive always wanted to.... I will be happy if i can make it around PIR in the low 1:40's but that might be too much to ask for...

 

I think the Ht-10 can hold plenty of heat, But that is probably the best chart for HAWK pads I have every seen. Wish that was on their website.

My annoyance with people and the DTC-60, Carbotech 12, Cobalt XR1, etc. is
-Their cost is drastically higher (except DTC they are resonable)
- I feel like people jump into them way to earlier. Those are literally the most aggressive pads made. They are not really necessary for many cars especially Honda's. Especially without tires that can hold that power, a front spring stiffness that can support the weight transfer, and maybe some rear downforce to aid in keeping the back end down.

A friend was trying to get my to buy his Carbotech XP10 because he wanted 12's and I could not explain to him my oem suspension, type R just did not need it. A DTC60, would lock up the fronts so easy even on a high performance street tire. If I upgrade to R comps/hoosiers then I'm going to need atleast a 10K front spring to support that and some argue a 20K is really needed. I have always found more enjoyment out of a car that is balanced.

 

Well i will be running on some Nitto Neo Gens, which go great in straight lines but i am not too confident with them in the corners.. They have somewhat of a soft sidewall and so i know they will not be so good lol...

I did take the abs out of my car so maybe i should not get a crazy aggressive pad?

 

@ oldintegrao:

Eh...

Longitudinal weight transfer depends solely on the deceleration rate, which is determined by the tire's ultimate braking grip. If a ht-10 pad will lock up your tires under any and all circumstances, then a more aggressive brake pad will not be able to cause any additional weight transfer over the ht-10. All spring rates and damping rates do is determine the time it takes for that weight transfer to occur. If you are softly sprung, then you can't simply 'jab' on the brakes, you have to ease onto them, and as load on the front tires increases you can proportionally increase your braking pedal force.

The reason one might need dtc-60 over ht-10 has nothing to do with their friction or ability to lock up the tires, it has to do with the temperature rating of the pad. The more horsepower a car has, the greater the amount of kinetic energy stored in the car at the end of the straight. This energy has to be dissipated as heat. If you're pad can't operate at the temperatures achieved, you will get pad fade. You do not want this. A higher temp rating pad is one method that can be used in situation. Other less simple methods might be brake ducting, or to the extreme, a larger brake rotor, caliper, and pad.

 

Dont focus on your lap time, instead focus on developing the fundamentals you need to keep you and your high HP car out of the wall!

No matter how fast your car is, there will be experienced people out there with complete buckets that will run circles around you.

With time, patience, and persistence you will learn how to use all that power, just try not to get ahead of yourself.

In the future, any time you are planning on attending a track day PM me. Ive been trying to get more Honda guys in our area to attend lapping days / time trials events.

In addition to brake pads, some high temp fluid is highly recommended as is a set of stainless braided brake lines if you have the time and money to install prior to the event.

I really like Motul RBF600 but lots of people use Ate Super Blue which is cheaper and easier to find.

 

I like your answer.. So ill get the DTC-60 lol....

 

If he still has them for sale, please pm me his contact information and how much he wants for them please !

 

Thanks! O yeah i know what you mean about other people lapping me lol... I know the car is just not setup at all to do this kind of racing, im racing a 10 sec honda, its deff far from a road race car...

My shop is a distributor for GiroDisc and we have some Motul RBF600 on the shelf, i want to do SS lines but idk if i can afford it right now! Too much do buy right before this track day and who's to say i will want to do it again...?

 

Im willing to bet you will want to do it again.

 

David you snake! Dibs on them carbotechs lol
Going to BW in two weeks. Finally getting the cobwebs off the EG.
Thats my next step.... your front brake system and carbotechs.


Harley... help the 10 second car understand that its a trial, and error thing.
There are no one pad or one set up that fits all.
Personally id tell him to remove his boost for the event.
Too much car, too little experience, thats a great combo for bringing your car home not driveable.
Be safe listen to the instructors.

 

this..


and this.

 

I will get my friend to see this thread and pm you two. (They are for Type R front calipers and I have no idea on the price)

@Speedengineer,

You obviously are not a noob and most likely have considerable more knowledge experience than I. Yes the DTC-60 will hold considerable more heat than the HT and I understand all of your points. Their valid and well supported. My whole point is are they really necessary and cost effective? He stated he is running Neo-Gens, that tire can not even been classed with a RE-11,Star Spec, etc. can it? While the chart you posted does not show it (Hell i would have probably reconsidered my purchase if i saw that chart first and knew is was 100% factual) I read before my purchase that the dtc 60 operate between 600-1600 and ht-10 between 300-1300. With a tire like the his it will be his #1 limiting factor in pretty much every vector of acceleration. I don't know the numbers, but he may have some effort getting those pads up to temp with his tire selection. Also the HT-10 offers some better streetablilty and autoX temp range. Again, I believe that the HT-10 will be balanced and without having ABS, a reflex quick jab on the DTC-60 could end up really ugly.

If he transitions to a better tire or even slick then absolutely he would benefit from the DTC'S. At that point my other issues of weight transfer come into play.

 

you never know, maybe he will be brake boosting. :p

 

Haha, yes I am considering selling my carbotech xp10. They are for itr calipers. I believe they have around 75% left. Just pm me if your intetested. I'm looking for $110 shipped.

 

Ahh true, but he also may bee "granny shifting, not double clutching like you should".

 

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/stop/

Read Tip #10.....

 

Brake boosting and double clutching not granny shifting CHECK


I realize that i am not at all experienced like you guys are around a track, but i am no complete noob that jumped into a 400whp+ car for his first time ever... I've had the car for 5 years and for the past 3 it has been making 400+... The car has been 11.57 in the 1/4 mile on these street tires at full weight, running a FWD car into the 11's on street tires is not an easy task to accomplish. Again, im not saying i know it all, just saying im not a complete NOOB ....

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, but i'm not taking off boost for the weekend lol....


I was however going to set up a Shift light connected to an Oil pressure sensor and a coolant temp sensor so if oil pressure drops below XXpsi or coolant temp goes above XXX degrees it will blink right in my eyes...