i have a pos integra ls and im trying to get it ready for winter. doing the breaks right now. the rear calipers are both seized up and need to be replaced. im having a really tough time getting the calipers off though. i have them removed from the bracket and laying ontop of the rotor but there is a break like that has to be disconnected and i cannot figure out how to get it off. it has 2 pieces coming together into 1 bracket and then a slide pin sitting there to hold them together. this whole ensemble is rusted beyond belief and the slide pin wont come out after pb blaster and wd40 amond others attempts. i thought of just breaking it off but i dont know how i would replace the bracket. im attatching a pic i took but its hard to see what im referring to. its front and center in the pic but kinda blurry. please help, running out of time..

 

That would be the hand/park brake cable, #1 is the pin... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
If you break the "bracket" you will need to replace the cable, #11.

Try this, get a small rag, saturate it with the PB blaster, [MoveIt is better] wrap the rag around the bracket/pin and let it sit overnight, find a nut with a hole just bigger then the head of the pin, place over head of pin then clamp a set of Vice Grips over nut and end of pin and see if you can "crack" the pin free. 94

 

Also, releasing the ebrake will make it much easier to get out as that will take the stress off of it and that very well might be whats holding it in. If nothing else, get a little pin press and use that on there.

 

Thanks alot. Ill give that a try. Where did you buy the moveit?

 

Any automotive supply/parts store should stock it, we get ours from Wyatt, Nappa also carries it, not sure about Lordco. 94

 

well, no luck with the soaking rag of pb blaster. let it sit for 24 hours and nothing, went at it with a pick trying to break the rust but still wont budge. let it sit again for 24 hours and it didnt really get any better. at this point im considering a butane torch or drilling it out. the pins are only $2-$4 apiece. if i drilled it out straight down from the top of the pin would that work? not really experienced with the torch method, any insight on that would be appreciated also

 

I would heat it up and then smack it with a hammer and pry it up from the bottom.

 

Did you try using a nut and a set of ViceGrips?

 

you have to literally saw the head off with air tools (much easier with air tools). i did that two years ago and haven't had the time to do the other yet. even sawing the head off it's still a pain to take out, but eventually it will come off once you get the head off.

 

This is an awfully common problem. You can forget any sort of solvent or penetrant; it won't help.

Firstly, reassemble the caliper to the bracket again so it will stay fixed while you mess with it.

Secondly, use a blowtorch to heat up the clevis and pin almost cherry, then pour some water on it to make it cool quickly. The thermal shock should help break up the rust enough to be able to force the clevis and the PB arm to rotate relative to each other.

Thirdly, using a set of Vise Grips, wiggle the clevis until it rotates free of the PB arm.

Fourthly, removal of the pin will still be impossible. Use a Dremel to cut off the top and bottom of the pin. Spread the arms of the clevis so they unhook themselves from the remains of the pin. The cable shold now be detached from the caliper.

There's a last problem you'll be faced with: Unclamping the cable from the front of the caliper body. Just saw a slot in the top of the clamp (remove the sheet-steel clip first), and use a large screwdriver to lever the hole more open so the cable may be withdrawn through it.

 

Lets hope he already got this a year ago.94

 

Oh, damn. I didn't notice that "teg_your_it" was responding to a year-old thread! WHY do people do that?

 

no looky, but then again, "been there done that" 94

 

maybe for future searches? they really should get rid of the search engine.