my block is warped...what should i do now???

I bought this car not knowing it had a BHG...when I found out that HG was the problem i decided to do the job myself

i bought new fel-pro gasket set, remanufactured head, new apr head bolts ($550) cleaned everything good and put all the new parts on without checking the block...as i was told several times the block rarely gets hurt
when i started the car the problem was worse
soooo....took it all apart again and sure enough the block is warped/dipping .003 inbetween each cylinder.I am so heartbroken...everyone keeps telling me to just put some sealant crap in and get rid of the car....i just cant see that being a good idea b/c
1. i would never do that to someone...i am an honest person
2. i paid $3,500 for the car and just put another $1200 into it...replaced clutch, axels, and brakes also
My question is what is the cheapest option i have at this point to fix my car??
My thought: JAPANENGINESINC.COM has an imported long block with 45k for $800 and i can sell the new head and bolts i just bought for $400 then i just need $400 more???? unless there is a special gasket for this kind of problem...
Do the swap. sell the head and bolts like you said. Also you could ask around to see if anyone wants to buy the block as a rebuild project. Crank, rods and pistons are still good. There could also be someone looking for an F series block for sleeving. A warped deck between cylinders won't make any difference to them.

I spent all the $$$ I have so she will be sitting for a couple months

Anyone want to buy a remanufactured head and ARP head bolts for $400???

Or a project block...LOL
For future reference, always inspect prior to install. Anyone can sell you a remaned long block, but they can't ever guarantee that the donor vehicle was well serviced. I have a friend that purchased remaned motors before, and he just swapped it in without checking first. It didn't take long before the block cracked a cylinder. Check many times and install once. Good luck.
For future reference, always inspect prior to install. Anyone can sell you a remaned long block, but they can't ever guarantee that the donor vehicle was well serviced. I have a friend that purchased remaned motors before, and he just swapped it in without checking first. It didn't take long before the block cracked a cylinder. Check many times and install once. Good luck.
how do i check it before buying when its in Cali and im in Florida?
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You never can tell how the engine was serviced before it got pulled from the vehicle. I would invest time in a rebuild kit. What you can try to do is contact the place that sold it to you and request an exchange for the block since it was defective. They did give you a warranty on the head?
You never can tell how the engine was serviced before it got pulled from the vehicle. I would invest time in a rebuild kit. What you can try to do is contact the place that sold it to you and request an exchange for the block since it was defective. They did give you a warranty on the head?
newhondagirl,
Few things you can do when/if you get a used motor;
1. Make sure you purchase it from a reputable company that has a warranty.
2. See if the company has done a compression test and leak down test. Have them send the results.
3. Do your own compression test and leak down test as soon as you get the engine. Compare results.
4. do any time sensitive maintenance while the block is out of the car.
• Timing belt, balance belt & tension hardware
• Water Pump
• Oil seals & gaskets
My bad newhondagirl about the head. See if the dealer will give you another block to exchange. Do your tests and compare with their results as sugessted by ghost.
You never can tell how the engine was serviced before it got pulled from the vehicle. I would invest time in a rebuild kit. What you can try to do is contact the place that sold it to you and request an exchange for the block since it was defective. They did give you a warranty on the head?

It is not the time i am worried about...it is the $$$
45k import from japan thats cleaned and checked or rebuild 170k def not taken care of engine....
From what I understand it's the block that's warped. It is not the reman'd head that she just bought. So don't think there will be any exchange with the person she bought the car from.
newhondagirl,
Few things you can do when/if you get a used motor;
1. Make sure you purchase it from a reputable company that has a warranty.
2. See if the company has done a compression test and leak down test. Have them send the results.
3. Do your own compression test and leak down test as soon as you get the engine. Compare results.
4. do any time sensitive maintenance while the block is out of the car.
• Timing belt, balance belt & tension hardware
• Water Pump
• Oil seals & gaskets
newhondagirl,
Few things you can do when/if you get a used motor;
1. Make sure you purchase it from a reputable company that has a warranty.
2. See if the company has done a compression test and leak down test. Have them send the results.
3. Do your own compression test and leak down test as soon as you get the engine. Compare results.
4. do any time sensitive maintenance while the block is out of the car.
• Timing belt, balance belt & tension hardware
• Water Pump
• Oil seals & gaskets
do i have to take the pistons out to do this? i cant seem to find a machine shop nearby besides sending it out through napa and they told me $675 to clean and check and that doesnt include any further work that will need to be done
If you can find a local shop that sells low mileage engines with a warranty go for it. Even better if it's a junk yard and the engine is still in the car. Some JY's will let you see it run and do tests on it before they rip it out.
To answer your other question, Yes you do have to remove the internals. That's probably why they are quoting you $675, that should include the removal and installation of your internals. You should verify that though.
To answer your other question, Yes you do have to remove the internals. That's probably why they are quoting you $675, that should include the removal and installation of your internals. You should verify that though.
Engine block warpage:
- Standard (New): below 0.07mm (0.003 in.) max.
- Service limit: 0.10 MM (0.004 in.)
It's the head that has a tighter tolerance: ≤0.002" is good, >0.002"≤0.008" can be resurfaced, >0.008" is trash.
If the new head is ≤0.002, buy a new gasket then use a know-accurate torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the proper stages and sequence.
The factory manual shows three thousands is OK:
Engine block warpage:
It's the head that has a tighter tolerance: ≤0.002" is good, >0.002"≤0.008" can be resurfaced, >0.008" is trash.
If the new head is ≤0.002, buy a new gasket then use a know-accurate torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the proper stages and sequence.
Engine block warpage:
- Standard (New): below 0.07mm (0.003 in.) max.
- Service limit: 0.10 MM (0.004 in.)
It's the head that has a tighter tolerance: ≤0.002" is good, >0.002"≤0.008" can be resurfaced, >0.008" is trash.
If the new head is ≤0.002, buy a new gasket then use a know-accurate torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the proper stages and sequence.
I dont have a precision edge, i am using a metal yard stick/ ruler and i can get the .003 under the ruler but not the .004 on the block and i can get the .002 but not .003 on the cylinder head only between the cylinders (same spot on both...i called the machine shop where i bought the head and they seem to think that my problem lies in the APR studs vs. using my old bolts...what do you think?
That's certainly possible but since you have no money but mechanical skills why not try out Roader's suggestion and get a nice new (thick, lol kiddin) gasket, accurate torque wrench and tighten the old bolts in proper sequence and see what happens. All it cost is some time and a head gasket. You might luck out.
I dont have a precision edge, i am using a metal yard stick/ ruler and i can get the .003 under the ruler but not the .004 on the block and i can get the .002 but not .003 on the cylinder head only between the cylinders (same spot on both...i called the machine shop where i bought the head and they seem to think that my problem lies in the APR studs vs. using my old bolts...what do you think?
Maybe I'll get flamed but from my experience doing head gaskets on different makes of cars, it seems like my F22B2 is fussy about bolt torque. I bought my car used w/220K and it had a minor, internal head gasket coolant leak. Took the head off and noticed that it had a Felpro gasket. Took the head to a machine shop and they told me it was flat/within spec. Did the same thing as you for the block - an 18" steel ruler and feeler gauges - and couldn't get anything more than a two or three thousands to slip in. Put a new Felpro on and torqued it exactly per the manual using a Snap-On wrench that was checked against another wrench. 5000 miles later, no problems. It's still a mystery why it was leaking coolant into the cylinders in the first place. Maybe someone was in a hurry torquing the bolts.
I hope you have the same good luck.



