i have a 94 gsr with blox intake manifold blox throttle body bdl fuel rail and a bunch of other nic nacs. before any of this stuff was put on it had a slight putter to begin with so i changed cap, rotor, numerous sets of plugs and wires, even went and changed the dizzy thinking it was the coil. the car still has a putter. bought the car bone stock from a guy that owned a race shop. the car has not lost any power since the day i bought the car. and by the way yes it has nitrous, and its only been sprayed 3-5 times just to see where my air fuels where at and to look at plugs to see how much tuning is required. im not some idiot whos sprays the **** outta the car whenever i get a chance had the kit on for 7 months only sprayed the car max of 5 times.... any ideas on my putter.. i got a video but i dont know how to upload...

 

also car has great compression and great fuel pressure...

 

Bumb

 

dirty iacv? fitv? I cleaned my iacv, fitv & throttle body on my 94 ls. It has been smooth since...(knock on wood).

 

Brand new iacv. Not sure about the fitv. Have to check that out

 

Now that I think about it hen I put the blox intake mani and tb on the was not used.

 

Sputter at what idle? light load, med load, high load? Your post is way to vague. What does your AFR read on your wideband when it sputters?

 

At low idle. Around 900. Air fuels are reading between 14.0-14.7 then when it sputters I see a peak of 15.3.

 

Been thinking. Anyone think it could be a bad map sensor. Also there are no codes neon thrown.

 

Is your IACV a Blox? Those are notoriously crappy (unless I'm remembering wrong).

 

No the iacv is from the dealership. The Problem existed before replacing iacv

 

What's your EMS?

 

Stock. got hondata on the way. Have tried a type r ecu just to see if it was the computer. But still had the put to it. And just to put it out there the car is not being sprayed until tuned. And the car puttered since it was stock

 

Datalogging off the Hondata might help you figure things out. It may also be that your stock idle control is just having trouble handling the new intake/TB. You'll have a lot more information once you get the Hondata running.

 

I would check all the basics first such as timing and vacuum lines. 15.3 for AFR shouldn't even affect anything. Did this happen before or after spraying NOS?

 

The car puttered even when it was completely stock. Before any mods what so ever were done to it.

 

What other mods are done to it? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so what is your psi at? It could be almost anything at this point. Have you asked the previous owner if he has a clue since he owns a race shop?

 

Fuel pressure is between 42-43psi. The car was bone stock until I got it. When I got the car it wasn't doing it and no I haven talked to the previous owner due to some incident between him and a friend. I've checked all vacuum lines. No matter how much I retard or advanced the timing the putter is still there. mechanical timing is still all intact. Check that a while ago when i first started diagnosing the problem. The car pulls great vacuum. Someone suggested a bent or cracked valve. But the putter goes away when I turn the air conditioning on. So I figure that automatically rules out timing and the possibility of a bent or cracked valve? Correct?

 

A bent or cracked valve would be a problem in all loads. It is weird how the putter goes away with the a/c on though. I'm starting to think you need a tune.

 

I'm wondering if the putter has something to do with the evaporative emissions system. Those use AC inputs in OBD2 cars and may in OBD1 cars as well.

 

Could you exPlain a little further please?

 

I was thinking the same thing. But it did it when the motor and everything was completely stock. Still think a tune?

 

In that case then no. Are all your lines hooked up properly?

 

The evaporative emissions system catches evaporated fuel in a charcoal canister while the system is letting out air to equilibrate to atmospheric pressure. To reclaim this fuel, a vacuum is occasionally introduced to the charcoal canister. This vacuum dries out the charcoal and carries the fuel into the intake air stream so that the evaporated fuel can enter the engine and get burnt. This process is controlled by a valve called the purge solenoid. It works differently in OBD1 and OBD2 engines, but in OBD2 engines it's associated with having the A/C on. In OBD1 I believe it operates during idle, but I'm not sure. It's a common problem in OBD2-to-OBD1 conversions because the OBD2 PCS causes a characteristic loping (and rather weak) idle.

You could try disconnecting the purge solenoid (just pull the plug on it) and see if it solves the problem. Or you can see the system activating/deactivating in your Hondata datalog (I assume).

 

Funny thing is when I took mine out it made no difference.