Paint and Body Auto Body Repair, Painting and Prep

Removing Rust and Old Faded Paint

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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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Blacknight117's Avatar
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Icon2 Removing Rust and Old Faded Paint

I am going to be sanding spots on my car to get rid of a bit "Honda Cancer". But I am stuck trying to figure out if I should dry or wet sand the spots. There are spots in my car where you can see little spots of rust starting to appear, and I also have some bubbling paint. I would just like to know, what grit should I start with, continue with, than end with? I will be getting the car repainted in the spring, but I want to try and get rid of any rust spots I can.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 07:13 AM
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Default Re: Removing Rust and Old Faded Paint

I suggest letting whoever is painting it do the prep work. I do not trust other peoples prep and end up re-doing it generally.
For removing rust, it really depends on the extent of the rust. With bad rust, I generally grind away any really bad sections with a die grinder, then do 80 and throw epoxy on. If you aren't using epoxy, whatever paint you use should tell you what kind of grit it likes to be applied over. Definitely no wet-sanding, you'll be out there all day and get very little done. Dry paper is definitely more for removing rust and shaping, wet paper is for finessing.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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Default Re: Removing Rust and Old Faded Paint

One thing to consider is using a rust converter product on some of the smaller patches. Basically it transfors surface rust into a paintable surface.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 07:25 PM
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Default Re: Removing Rust and Old Faded Paint

Originally Posted by bhbob
One thing to consider is using a rust converter product on some of the smaller patches. Basically it transfors surface rust into a paintable surface.
You'll need to sand to remove loose rust/scales and make sure you expose the ENTIRE affected area to the product.
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 04:35 PM
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Default Re: Removing Rust and Old Faded Paint

Originally Posted by joeshmo
You'll need to sand to remove loose rust/scales and make sure you expose the ENTIRE affected area to the product.
Yes, great point! Thanks for adding that in
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