Hi H-T, i'm new to the forums. Not my first honda i've had 3 gen3 integras; 1
gsr, 2 ls's, but now I have this JDM ITR motor.

So I just bought a complete swap from a friend; motor(B18CR), tranny(S80),
ecu(P73), axles, intake man., exhaust man., shift linkage(gold). The donor is
his personal jdm itr. This motor has had it's fluids done regularly, but never
been cracked open ever, straight from Japan's nsx factory.

It has it's original clutch my guess is it has ~100k miles. I want to keep the
power train completely stock so i don't have to chip the ecu 197 ponies is
good enough for me(at least for now )

I need personal recommendations with an explanation for;
1. A quality clutch that's stiffer than stock BUT not so stiff that i'm going to
get my leg workout and be sore.
\\Exedy stage 1 Organic
2. Motor mounts that are going to be a good replacement to stock rubber
want better response. I don't want it so stiff that it shakes my rearview
mirror.
3. What kind of spark plugs and wires. NOTE: this is the jdm B18C with
11.1:1 compression.
\\NGK blues wires, NGK V-power copper 6 or 7?
4. Timing belt, water pump, And other services I need.

This swap is going in to an `96 ek hatch

If there's any other thoughts or inputs I'd be glad to hear.

TIA

 

1.) Exedy stage 1 or OEM ITR clutch from Acura
2.) Either energy inserts or the softest durometer hasport (or similar mounts). It will still feel like a *****.
3.) Stock plugs and wires. www.sparkplugs.com usually has pretty good *** deals. Stock platinum plugs for like $6.70 isn't bad.

 

x2

do this

as for wires the NGK blues are often chosen over stock for similar life and performance and less $

if you want slightly stiffer get that exedy1 not the oem itr, oem is...well..oem, also overpriced

 

Thank you I just ordered the stage 1 organic from ebay for ~70 dollars cheaper than amazon. Thanks for the heads up i'll get the wires tomorrow, I'm trying to swap this asap

 

Quick question about the spark plugs, in my current location we only have RON 92 pump gas and i know the stock jdm itr's are supposed to run RON 100 Would there be a choice plug for 92 pump gas?

 

the engine will run better on the street with a heat range 6 ngk plug with the stock ecu. a lot of us forgo iridium for copper and just change them on a yearly basis.

 

1- Everybody recommends Excedy stage 1 if you plan on staying all-motor. No need for anything heavier.

2- No idea. ITR has special torque mounts on it (two front mounts on the bottom and the rear mount). These will work if you have an Integra your putting the motor into. If you have a 92-95 Civic, only the rear mount will work, because the frame rails have nubs built into them with different front torque mounts that straddle them.

3- NGK V-power copper are the ones everybody recommends. They probably outperform expensive plugs, and only cost $2 each. 7 is the stock heat-range, but some people use 6. With copper, you just have to replace them more often.

4- Timing belt is always wise to do. You can get the Gates T247 belt for a lot cheaper than OEM , but they say it's the same belt (with different label). OEM P72 belt is made by Unitta which is the Asian market division of Gates and now cost $40. Gates also makes a T247RB blue racing belt but it cost ~$70. Probably not necessary if you don't have modified valvetrain (more stress) or a turbo (more heat).

You can also buy the OEM tensioner pulley direct from Koyo for a lot less than the dealer. Amazon sells the gates belt for $24 and the koyo tensioner bearing for $24 with free shipping.

As far as I've seen you cannot get the OEM water pump from an aftermarket source. You might not even need to replace it anyways. inspect it closely and make sure the bearing is super smooth and there is no evidence of leakage.

Then all you need is the valve cover gasket ($8 from Acura) and the spark plug gaskets. You don't really have to replace all the valve-cover grommets if you don't want to. If you do, the entire valvecover gasket kit is like $35 from Acura. Don't forget a tube of Hondabond or Ultraflange from the dealer as well. I like the tube of ultraflange better than hondabond because it's plastic and doesn't crack and leak. Also the cap won't split either while it's in your toolbox. It just lasts longer sitting.

 

I just ordered the stage 1 organic hopefully i made the right decision.
it's going in to an ek hatch. I've been doing some extensive reading on the forums to find out i need some brackets from the 99-00 si, and I am assuming the stock d-series mounts work, someone please correct me if i'm wrong.
I just checked the plugs today they are still in good condition. I plan to run the NGK copper's when the time comes.
Plan is to stay simply stock, but you never know... As for the timing belt can anyone else give some feedback on the Gates compared to stock?

I will likely replace it just for the sake of a reliable swap, should i stick with oem or are the aftermarket water pumps ok?

I'll pull the trigger on the gaskets too. Thanks

 

I just purchased an OEM P72 belt from my online Acura source (Acura Parts of Peoria in AZ). When it arrived I saw Honda & Unitta name printed on the belt itself. I immediately went & looked up who Unitta was. I was kinda bummed when I found out they were the Asian division of Gates. If you notice, the Gates website is "Gatesunitta.com". They are one and the same.

And when I cracked open the timing cover for the first time this past weekend, I discovered my several year old JDM R swap had a nearly brand new Gates belt already on it.

Double whammie! Now I've got an extra P72 belt I'm not sure what to do with. I'll probably just keep it for when it's time to change it again.

http://www.gatesunitta.com/

BTW: OEM water pump is made by Yamada. Perhaps you can find an aftermarket source for this pump. I haven't yet.

 

the long and short of plug heat ranges on the stock ecu are: 6's will give you better mpg and a cleaner burn with our fuel. 7's are a better fit for lap days and are less likely to detonate. the problem with 7s on the street is they create more black soot which coats the exhaust ports of the head. the stock ecu is already tuned rich, 7's just amplify that in street driving

 

You got the stock replacement disc. That sucks. Should have went with stage 1 kit. New pp, pilot bearing, throw out bearing for $250.

 

4- Timing belt is always wise to do. You can get the Gates T247 belt for a lot cheaper than OEM , but they say it's the same belt (with different label). OEM P72 belt is made by Unitta which is the Asian market division of Gates and now cost $40. Gates also makes a T247RB blue racing belt but it cost ~$70. Probably not necessary if you don't have modified valvetrain (more stress) or a turbo (more heat).

You can also buy the OEM tensioner pulley direct from Koyo for a lot less than the dealer. Amazon sells the gates belt for $24 and the koyo tensioner bearing for $24 with free shipping..[/QUOTE]

That's awesome. Great info.

 

Well I just finished ordering the new timing belt/water pump. And expecting the clutch to be in by tomorrow. Now I need to know what mounts to get, I have 2 in mind atm.

avidracing and hasport any input? And I seem to be missing something as I called both vendors to find out I still don't know which civic si brackets I will need to order???

So avid told me I will need the 2 bolt style to fit my ek chassis and the motor is a 3 bolt???
And the guy Chris told me it doesnt matter if the motor is RHD just so long as the chassis is LHD... so he said get LHD
Then over at Hasport the guy i spoke with told me I need Civic SI T-bracket, and that i will need a
3 bolt style and to get a RHD kit. Anyone want to clear up this clutter of information?

my Goals for the mounts are cheap, reliable, and close to stock.
-Which mounts from the SI I will need?
-Which company should i go with, both have limited lifetime. But i'm sure i wont keep the car more than 4 yrs.
-LHD OR RHD kits?
-What else should I replace while the motor is out?
-I'm not considering stock mounts any input?
Thanks for all the great info. I believe i saved ~$150 USD on clutch, t-belt, and water pump.

 

BTW: Of the two JDM motors I've worked on, both had the tensioner pulley bolt round off when I tried to remove it. I don't know what it is, but when they work on these motors in Japan, they use some sort of Gorilla strength to torque this bolt.

Just be prepared to order a new bolt and pick up a set of bolt-out sockets from Sears. The smallest one in the larger of the two sets will do it (14mm).

 

So i'm in a rut now, thing is a buddy of mine who is going to mechanics school says I need to replace all the bearings and gaskets. Also is telling me I should have gone with a stage 2 clutch. Then the next problem is I don't have a running car! I need all this ish delt with asap.

How much am I looking at for someone to do this swap for me? What is likely going to need replacing in the near future that I might as well do since the motor is pulled. And what should I pay my buddy to do all of the work and drop the motor for me.

Came across this neat little website with a ton of information specifically for an B18 powered ek. Hybrid 6th gen

 

oh hell no!

What the FAWK makes him think it needs new bearings and gaskets? Sounds like he's trying to cash in early on his new found trade... <_< You should be weary of whatever this guy tells you. People on this web board stand to make no money off of you, so you can expect to receive unbiased opinions.

And there is definitely no need to go with a stage 2 unless your going turbo. You simply cannot make enough torque to ruin a stage1. You will most likely break axles first.

 

I'm glad I wont be needing to replace all that. He is a trustworthy friend but I know he tends to go overkill with cars, like I told him I bought the R swap and I want to rebuild it stock, and he told me to upgrade everything saying these will go bad anytime, might as well go with these upgraded replacements... and so on. LOL

Well again i'm glad I wont be needing to shell out another $700+ on unnecessary parts. So seems to me like the parts I ordered are more than enough to service my needs. I've been reading about new clutches and how-to's and don'ts and would it be necessary to replace/resurface the flywheel, I'm guessing it would cost roughly the same price.

Where is a good place to order oem honda parts that don't charge ridiculous shipping costs... Just went to the first like 6 links on google and they charge ~$13 minimun on shipping the Si mount 50827-S04-N10.

 

U will need to change the mount bolted to the block under he timing cover...u need the one that comes on the b16 from a 99 00 si....i found out i needed this last minute integra and eg use diff from ek

 

Yeah... If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The only preventative maintenance you need to do, is spelled out in the owners manual. Change fluids, belts, plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Also adjust your valves while your doing the timing belt (mine were way off). Getting these two tools will make it very easy. Set lash to .006" intake and .007" exhaust.

Craftsman 26 Leaf offset feeler gauge from Sears ($10):



Alltrade 648822 Honda Valve Adjustment Tool ($12 on Amazon):





Sorry I cannot comment on resurfacing the flywheel.

For Honda parts I order from G1Parts.com now. They have free shipping on orders over $20 so they are always less than any other dealer. Just use another site like HondaPartsNow or AcuraPartsWarehouse to look up part numbers because the G1 website SUCKS!

The only problem you'll run into is that a lot of the parts on ITR will be Acura specific, and Honda dealers cannot order Acura-specific parts. Parts that say P73 or P72 will definitely have to come from an Acura dealer. I like to order from AcuraofPeoria out of Arizona. They are a dealer on eBay (don't get confused with the one out of CA). Their contact Dennis Lee is super nice, quick to respond and will price match competitors (I usually don't bother). Their shipping is always less (usually $8) and items get to me in only 2 days sometimes (I'm in Nevada).

 

So I found out the motor isn't what I hoped it to be... It has water in head and the block. There are head studs missing. The harmonic balancer is missing??? And judging from the impression I got from the guy who sold it to me, he ****ed me. He told me it's running and I just need to drop it. FML.

 

sounds like the shady type... time to pay him a visit

 

So I went to my buddy's house to check the motor, and it's super clean in the oil ports head but the head did have some milky oil, but the hg looked alright. So the block has some minor rust along the cylinder sleeves. And the motor is for the most part CLEAN! We just had some miscommunication, but it's just about time do the rebuild. So we're going to do various tasks very soon, will likely have a parts list up soon.

Sorry for the confusion the motor is still as expected!

 

Thats good to hear, i bet youre relieved. Get that bitch in there!

 

I have pretty much everything needed, just finishing up the list.
Where to get these:
I need OEM piston rings
99-00 SI Mounts
New flywheel recommendations?
99-00 SI radiator hoses.
Will I need exhaust flanges welded on?
I bought a gsr wheel hub all four that had a missing stud. for 120 and was wondering what I need to get them mounted to the civic? the guy told me I need 99-00 si control arms.
do I need to order 99-00 SI struts/coils with the different control arms.

 

marine air, heavy in salt. stuff rusts. i had an f22 that was seized so badly on the crank pulley that we had to slip a 4ft pipe over a 2ft snap on breaker bar while the flywheel was held by this rigged up contraption i made with a long wrecking bar and 2 grade 8 bolts welded on to it so the crank didn't move. it literally took a 200lb guy jumping on a 4ft pipe to break loose.

option b would have been a 1" semi truck impact.

the 1/2" ingersol ti was useless and that's the most powerful 1/2 gun made