95 LX won't stay running.
95 Accord LX, F22B2. Motor has 92k on it.
Custom Turbo Kit, T3/T4 57 trim, DSM 440cc injectors, walbro 255, Chipped P75 street tuned on crome.
So far I've checked all fuses, fuel pump, injectors, replaced cap/rotor, plug wires and plugs.
There was a small amount of oil in the bottom of my distributor cap (a few drops).
Car will cold start fine, but it starts to sputter and miss as it idles, and won't rev much at all. After it's warmed up, the idle will drop lower and lower(from about 750 where it's supposed to be, to around 500 or lower), then it'll start missing more and more to the point where it starts shaking the whole car then it'll just cut out. If I wait a few minutes, I can restart the car and it'll do the same thing. Prior to this(when I was actually driving it, and it wasn't just a backyard ornament), it would intermittently break up anywhere in the rev range. Would randomly run fine, and then start to break up. I'm out of ideas, only other thing I can think of is to try a known working coil, and distributor. Is there something else I might be missing?
Custom Turbo Kit, T3/T4 57 trim, DSM 440cc injectors, walbro 255, Chipped P75 street tuned on crome.
So far I've checked all fuses, fuel pump, injectors, replaced cap/rotor, plug wires and plugs.
There was a small amount of oil in the bottom of my distributor cap (a few drops).
Car will cold start fine, but it starts to sputter and miss as it idles, and won't rev much at all. After it's warmed up, the idle will drop lower and lower(from about 750 where it's supposed to be, to around 500 or lower), then it'll start missing more and more to the point where it starts shaking the whole car then it'll just cut out. If I wait a few minutes, I can restart the car and it'll do the same thing. Prior to this(when I was actually driving it, and it wasn't just a backyard ornament), it would intermittently break up anywhere in the rev range. Would randomly run fine, and then start to break up. I'm out of ideas, only other thing I can think of is to try a known working coil, and distributor. Is there something else I might be missing?
Back to the basics (air, fuel, spark)..does't matter if you stuffed a v8 ford in there......When it dies, what lights on the dash are on (key switch, main relay)? When it won't start-you state you have to "wait a few minutes"- is there spark at the plugs when the no start happens (ICM, coil).
Give us something to work with.
Give us something to work with.
It's definitely getting air and fuel. The only dash light that comes on when the car dies is the charging system light, it's not throwing any codes. It's not that it won't start after it cuts out, it will but it'll immediately start missing/trying to cut out again. If I wait a few minutes, it'll start like normal, idle normal for a few(15-30) seconds and then start to cut out again.
How did you verify fuel into the cyl's?
Strange the oil light isn't on....
Changed distributor today, old one was pretty much done, everything behind the leak cover had oil on it, timing is spot on, still no change. Car has good, clean spark now though. As it starts to miss, it seems like fuel is building up in the cylinders, and that's the icing on the cake that kills it, it'll puke black smoke when I try to start it after it dies. It's not running rich to the point where it's smoking at all when it runs, but there's a faint smell and it's always been there. Plus it ran fine aside from the occasional miss/breaking up spell before I parked it one day. Injectors were cleaned/flow tested when I bought them, they're pretty much brand new. I've pulled the rail off a few times and had fuel come out. You can hear the pump prime and run while the car is running. I also swapped an identical known working chip into my ECU, thinking that maybe the chip went bad, but no change.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ebp_dc2
Forced Induction
30
Oct 20, 2005 11:54 AM






