I got a Miller Diversion 165 and I'm using green tungsten and 3/32 filler rod. Welding on a piece of aluminum 0.95. I had the machine set at around 80 amps. My concerns/questions are I sometimes had a hard time establishing an arc, however I think that was due to me dipping the tungston on the material. What do you think? Will this cause this? Second concern, I don't know if I need more heat, less heat, more gas, less gas... I had the gas set at about 15-17 cfh. When I established an arc, the only time I was able to establish a puddle was when I had the foot pedal all the way too the floor and it seemed to disappear if I let up. This caused the aluminum to get hot and warp. What do you guys think the problem is? Also, I think it may have made the machine hot, as it wouldn't do anything and the fan was running continuously until I turned the machine off and then I was able to continue welding. However, the beads where I had the foot pedal all the way down and established the puddle, came out pretty decent. So.. what should I be doing? Am I doing something wrong? I only welded for an hour today and I know it take time I just wanna know if I doing something wrong so I can change it if necessary I ran about 5 beads these were the best. The first two are the same weld and the only weld to actually penetrate and have the stack of dimes look on the other side. The second weld seemed to come out good but not penetration on the back side.

 

I mean 0.095 Aluminum not 0.95

 

Get rid of the green tungsten, it's junk. Pure has the poorest heat resistance and electron emission. Pick up some Lanthanated or a tri-mix for welding aluminum. Stay away from thoriated on AC as well it likes to split very easily. On DC it works great though.

 

Sounds like your way to cold bump up the amps to around 120, and 15-17 is fine for gas coverage. Leave that alone.

 

Is that why I need the foot pedal maxed out just to establish / keep a puddle, not enough amps. Why is the Aluminum warping .

 

Anyone else any info

 

Fabchild is right. I have the same machine and did the same thing. Green tungsten does not work on this inverter. It tells you in the manual. Use the orange it came with, for steel and aluminum.

 

Yes, Amps = Heat. If you don't have enough heat you will have trouble establishing a puddle and melting filler. Same things with too much heat it will be easy to start a puddle and burn through the plate. This is why you have a remote with tig is to control the heat. I'm not sure if you have a pedal or a thumb switch but maintaining the correct heat and adding the correct amount of filler is the goal.

 

I was told to get Lanthanated which is gold. Should I get the Lanthanted or the orange kind ?

 

I run the arc-zone light blue hybrid in mine. Works great.

 

ditto. i have a sync 200, but the light blue stabilized the arc a bit. thats all I use now.

 

The syn 200 u have is different from a diversion, the diversion is an inverter machine. As for B16bri the Orange works for steel and aluminum. That's what I have been usin and have no problems. Here's a link to weldcraft, they list what color and material combinations work on what, of course someone might have used something different and got it to work but this is a good starting point for u to decide what to get. Ur just learning and don't complicate things yet, stick to what it comes with it (orange) and experience as u go.

http://www.weldcraft.com/parts-acces...en-electrodes/

 

A general rule of thumb for TIG is you run the amps in direct relation to the material thickness. For example .125 (1/8") thick steel you want to use an amperage around 125A. For aluminum you about double the value. So for a .125 material you will run 225-250 amps.

When welding aluminum you need to start very hot to establish the puddle since aluminum conducts heat very well it sucks all the heat from the puddle. As you run the bead you will find you need to gradually let off as you go to keep from burning through. With aluminum you will always end colder than you start.

Unlike steel you cant "set it and forget it" aka set the machine and just floor it for the length of the weld. With aluminum you will almost always be partial pedal after starting the puddle.

 

i use brown tungsten at work all day, hardly ever use anything else. turn your machine up to 120 or so. i use a precision tig 375 and i have it set at 225 and never re adjust it i weld from 3/16ths and down to some pretty thin stuff .

 

I got bored of just running beads so i tryed to weld some IC piping together. I'm having a issue learning how to tack pipes together and how to weld aluminum pipes togethe. I feel like i only weld for about and inch or so when welding pipe. Before I have to stop. As far of tacking I cant do that at all. I'm useing a diversion 165 with a foot pedal.