Hi guys,

My muffle fell off my '91 Si a few days ago. I've already got one beer can repair on what's left of the exhaust, and I'm tired of patching that **** back together.

As long as I'm doing this, I want to do it right and upgrade.

I'm thinking I need headers, 2.25" pipes, and I want the tailpipes to look as stock as possible. I also want it to stay relatively quiet. I don't mind a little noise accelerating, but I like the fact that the car is almost silent when it idles.

I guess I need suggestions on where to buy the headers, resonator, muffler (dynomax from autozone?), and cat. Any specific parts recommendations?

Also, should I buy the pipes, or have some custom bent pipes?

and the most important question - can I do this myself? It's a bitch to get under the car, but I have ramps and jack stands. The headers don't look like they'd be too bad. I don't have much experience, but I did do the headers and exhaust on my '78 F150 (a much easier vehicle to work on).

I plan on keeping this motor till it dies, a turbo isn't out of the question eventually, but I have no immediate plans. Intake and some minor engine work (cam) are on my todo list.

Thanks guys

 

Here is what I have:

Pacesetter exhaust. http://www.nopionline.com/index.cfm?...haust%20System

Flex joint thingy http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml;...=64238&BQ=jcw2

Header http://www.nopionline.com/index.cfm?...haust%20Header

Resonator http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=8524

This is great sounding setup. During regular driving it is very quite, but hit the gas and people know you have an aftermarket exhaust. At idle, I can't even hear it. I know I'm not the only one on this forum that likes Pacesetter...so don't attack me too bad. I had a Pacesetter on my 86 CRX that I still have 5 years later and it is still intact(no rust holes..and I'm right near the beach in Florida!) Hey for the price is a little hard to beat, but if I had the extra $$$$ I would go with a DC setup or Thermal...etc.

 

Is there much advantage going with a 4-2-1 rather than a 1 piece header?

How do I know how big the piping is for this stuff?

What are my options if I want the muffler mounted sideways like the stock civic exhaust?


[Modified by maharashii, 11:10 AM 10/4/2002]

 

i'm sorry, sir, but i do not care for a pacesetter exhaust at all.. i find it to be one of the worst sounding exhaust available for imports.. it's too "tinny"...

as far as a nice cat-back, i'd say take a look at the Greddy and Apexi World Sports exhausts available for your car. both have a nice, mellow tone and aren't too too loud..

for a header, i don't know, but most people seem to be happy with DC sports.. i run and old fujitsubo header on my b16a..

btw, 4-2-1 is a 2 piece or one piece, 4-1 is for most part a one piece.. as far as what does what, you can't tell just buy saying a 4-2-1 gives better torque and a 4-1 gives better high-end.. you have to see dyno charts for proof.. preferable one on the exact same car every run..

as for a cat, most high-flow cats are the same. you can probably find one on summitracing.com for about 70 bucks or so and then have a GOOD muffler shop weld it on.. i have seen some real crap come out of the local meineki's, so make sure it's good work...

btw, i run the fujitsubo header, a catco cat, stock "b" pipe, and 2.25 inch ES Oval universal muffler with axle-back piping on my crx.. it's really nice..

 

Im using GReddy MX. 2.5" piping. Queit till high revs....nice exhaust

 

I took the car to a local custom exhaust shop - the guy does a lot of work on compact cars (he had 3 shelby dodges in his lot) but he doesn't know much about hondas.

Anyhow, he gave me a good quote but he wants me to order the header and bring it in with the car.

What should I buy? I need lotsa suggestions

I've heard that 2.5" is too big for a naturally aspirated 1.6L - is this going to be a problem? Will any of this diminish my fuel economy?

 

i hear thermal is THE way to go

 

I would try to match up the sizes 2.25" header,cat,exhaust or 2.5" header cat exhaust

I think 2.25" is good for NA/ unless youre going to be doing some major mods

 

I have a dc sports 4-2-1 ceramic coated header, I like it but it is getting rust on the flanges after about 18 mos. my friend crx si told me that after about 2 yrs the flanges can start to crack on them so i am worried. 4-1 headers do not pass emmissions while most 4-2-1 's do. catco sells good high-flow cats that are functioning catalysts ( not just test pipes). I was looking at OBX cats which u can purchase on http://www.massivemotorsports.com for $55(damn good deal). I liek these because they r stainless steel and are bold on, not weld on. However they are not functionning catalysts, so i would have to purchase a stock honda cat for emmision tests. Iwould recommend that you buy a aftermarket cat-back like a thermal or dc sports, or apexi WS. I also do not like the pacesetters, most of the applications i have seen lose too much low end torque due to the 2.5" down piping. If you have a custom exhaust made, get custom mandrel bent piping. I have a custom cat-back on my rex and hate it when the vtec kicks in at 4grand my car sounds like chewbacca. It is relatively easy to put a full exhaust on a car, if you are lucky all you will have to do is unbolt the header, and slide the exhaust off the hangers. then bolt up the new one.

 

Get the Thermal 2.25" exhaust! It sounds AWESOME, full stainless piping and welds, the damn thing comes POLISHED fromt he factory. VERY nice setup.

I've got the 3" on my car, and it's jsut a louder better flowing version, but it's still mellow enough with the turbo to be very streetable.

 

I agree..I have the 2.25" system on my 4dr. It sounds great and looks good too.

 

you guys have any recommended sites for buying the thermal exhaust? i havent had much luck finding places that carry it

 

There was a guy on here who would sell it for a great price... was it ARTurbo?

 

man, go witht the dynomax 2.25 muffler from autoparts store and get a 32 inch glasspack. Get it welded up with 2.25 piping and dont even put a tip on it.

Really cheap
Looks completely stock
Sounds stock at idle and its got a nice deep growl at wot

For the price, ya can't get a better sounding exhaust

 

i've got a thermal catback for sale. it's made for a crx, but if you're going to use it on a civic hatch (which i'm doing), i've got a high flow cat that has been extended so that it will fit.

if you're interested, IM me

 

The one made for the CRX SI is 2". If it was 2.5" there would be a loss of low end, yes.

 

I agree with that, but you forgot to mention how fast the corrode! One of my friends had the Pace Setter exaust, and it only took like a month before it started to rust! PACESETTER BAD . Greddy or Tanabe GOOD

 

If you wany something quick, cheap and easy, then go with the pacesetter. If you want it to last, sound and perform better, and have the money do so then gow with some of the more expensive options. Just remember you get what you pay for.

 

SiR Kid,

how much did you pay for your 3" Thermal exhaust?

 

LMAO.. how come so many people replace their exhuast only after their muffler FALLS OFF.. HOW THE HELL DOES IT FALL OFF?! thats just funny.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=287707

GroupBuy Special check it out

 

$585 shipped overnight is good. I waited 4-5 days, and got it for 550.

I thought I got a GREAT deal

 

corrosion

I knew I needed exhaust - I've been putting it off for about 6 months. The first hint was when the pipe going into the resonator started to rust through. I ignored it though, and after a week the pipe completely disconnected. My car sounded like an small angry helicopter with a chest cold. I took it to a local shop and had them clamp a piece of pipe on there to hold it back together.

Flash forward a couple months and I noticed it getting noisy again. I slapped on some muffler mender and I was good to go for about 2 weeks. The muffler mender failed, so I took the clamps off, wrapped the edges of the pipe with muffler tape, clamped on a beer can, and thought I was ready to go. The car sounded great, and I had no problems until I hit the freeway the following weekend. That's when the muffler decided for whatever reason that it didn't want to be connected to the rest of the exhaust anymore.

Fortunately the hangers kept it from actually losing all contact with the vehicle, and now it is in my hatch, and my car sounds like **** again.

Way too much info, but now ya know

Anyhow, I am all about the low-end torque. So I should look into a header with 2.25" pipe and a 4-2-1 configuration to pass emissions? After that I'll hook it up to a $40 dynomax, some cheapy (glasspack?) resonator and a cat of some sort.

This is estimated to cost: $250 parts (2.25" all the way through) + $100 labor + cost of the header. Sound like a good deal? I think it does. I'm saving money by not buying exhaust tips I think I'll just weld a soup can onto the tail pipe - same affect for only $0.50!


[Modified by maharashii, 6:00 PM 10/7/2002]

 

I knew there was someone elase here that like Pacesetter Really guys. It is not as bad as most people make it out to be. I have a cat-back that I took off my 86 Rex 5 years ago that has no rust, and the chrome tips are still shiny. Not to mention it has been outside all of that 5 year period in the weather.

 

I tend to disagree, I have had no personal experience with them. But I've seen what has happened to my friend's when he had it.