I purchased a bolt in roll cage a few months ago and have not installed it yet. i have reservations about drilling holes in my car to install it since im not really sure i want to have it in there all the time and only plan on tracking my car once in a while.

i was thinking i could build my own cage that utilizes the strut towers in the back and the seat mounting locations and have a true bolt in roll cage that could be removed and not leave holes in the car. has anyone done anything like this and is it even legal for a weekend warrior autox or drag car?

im not asking anyones opinion on my skills or abilities to build the cage all im really looking for is some insight in to the regualtions concerning this type of installation.

thanks for your help.

Levi

 

If it is just autox or drag racing I wouldn't bother to run run a rollbar. If you are talking about a road course ,If you don't want to drill holes in your car for the rollbar then you are not ready to take your car to the track. If you are not ready to write off that car you probaly don't need a rollbar either. Its just a rollbar what you are talking about(the back 1/2).

 

yes you are correct i guess i am just talking about a roll bar not a roll cage.

i disagree with your opinion about not being ready of the track. for example my buddy has a type r that he does auto-x events and would like to have the added rigitiy and safety of a roll bar but wont drill holes in his car because he doesnt want to devalue to car. that is why i am asking this question.

Levi

 

The chassis rigid improvement from a bolt in cage won't help anything compared to how much weight you will be adding to the car. The primary function of a roll cage is to keep you safe.

But for your buddy with the Type R. What does he value more? His life or the resale value of his type R? If he values the resale value of the Type R then sure, run it 10/10ths without a cage.

A bolt in cage isn't all that safe to be honest. You'll probably punch it through the floor in the event of a roll over like this guy with a bolt in cage on a Mustang:

Notice those posts sticking through the floor? Yeah... that's his bolt in cage.

 

that bolt in cage probably didnt have large enough mounting plates for the roll bar. i didnt really start this thread to have people poke holes in my idea. if you dont have something constructive to say please keep your thoughts to yourself.

Levi

 

If pointing out potentially fatal issues isn't constructive enough, I can't imagine what is.

No one has been insulting or attacked you personally in any way, they are just contributing important, relevant information. If you don't want to listen to it, then skip over it, but complaining about people who are honestly contributing is weak.

Best of luck with your project.

 

i guess i was just hoping for more fabrication advice not everyone saying how bad of an idea a bolt in cage is. i plan on using thick base plates like a weld in cage would have to avoid the issue of the hoop punching through the floor. if a weld in cage is not installed properly it can be worse than a bolt in cage. help me do this thing right so its safe. thanks.

levi

 

i have an idea for close to what you are talking about and yes it is possible but it is an idea that i havnt finalized the idea 100 percent but im close. I own a fabrication shop and i get ideas from customers like this all the time but when cost is entered into the equation most people never return. i will try to post up a picture of the 4 point point strut brace that i have made for my 4 door integra that is just a start of what you are talking about. having the fabricated strut brace in the rear connecting to the rear strut tower mounting holes and going to the bolt holes in the trunk where the rear crash brace(behind the bumper cover metal brace) is possible and yes factory bolt holes will work. mine is a little different since i did drill holes but you get the idea. connecting to the seat belt holes yes are possible in my opinion. but when it comes to to the center of the car behind your seat which i think is the most important part is the main hoop, holes must be drilled into the floor with no compromise utilizing a plate welded to the rollbar mainhoop and a plate under the floor to sandwich them together for strength. one problem i see doing it this way is weight. to do it structurally correct there is going to be a lot of bracing that some people think is too much but its not that bad if the proper sizing of material is used or even chromoly to lighten it some. it can be done there is a way. if your interested feel free to contact me at 610 566 0322 my name is steve and no im not just plugging my shop and im not going to charge you just to talk or for an idea. its easier to explain over the phone rather than this novel of a post that i just wrote.

 

i didn t explain the the first pic above this post is the 4 door integra rear strut brace that will have the raer bars from the hoop welded to it one i finish them. the rear bars from the hoop will go through the rear deck and be welded to this brace with interlocking machined connection for removability. this brace is two peice, in the center you can see there is a finger like machined interlocking connection so its still structural but can come apart. the second pic is a rollbar for a ek honda civic which is built in 3 peices. it is fully functional and fairly easy to install. before anyone starts asking about the civic rollbar it is not under any certain specs its is just one that i built for a my civic while using my new tubing bender and it is not rated for any certain race applications it is only cosmetic.