I have to replace my battery. I priced out a regular 5 year battery and an optima yellow top for my 89 hatch with b18a swap. The prices were $84 and $286 respectively.

Only thing I am running is an old alpine 4 channel amp connected to the 2 front speakers and a sub in the trunk.

Everybody's always raving about the optima yellowtop, is it worth it? It sure looks nice

 

holy **** there that much i was thinking of getting one to be on the safe side when i putt the battery in my trunk

who knows now lol

 

Ever since they started making them in Mexico a couple years ago, they are complete garbage. I was replacing them every 6 months to a year in my race cars and trucks alike - both the red top and yellow tops...

 

Check out the Odyssey PC680. It is a lot smaller and will save you some weight.
http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html

 

hmmmm will that power the sub and amp as stated above

that doesnt seem like too bad of a deal

and i can just tuck it right next to rad fan

 

I have been using mine for about 4 or 5 years with my two amps. The B-series alternator also charges 10 or 20 amps more output than the crx dx one. I dont live anywhwere where it gets cold though - that could be a problem.

 

Love mine, have owned for about 4 years now. It sat in my tool room for about 3 years, and when the battery in my sedan went I tossed it in. Fired right up with no need to charge. Hard to beat the cranking amps on an Optima, helps cut down on wear and tear during starting.

In my opinion, worth it.

 

I ended up getting the $84 ACD haha... Hell with the difference in price I can get the Skunk2 Camber Kit I've been wanting for a while lol.

 

Hey if you're sweating putting it in the trunk just remember this...batteries off gas hydrogen... get a cheap marine box...make a vent tube ...exit it down thru the floor and you're good....If you're really uptight about it get a 12v fan from an old computer or something like that and set it up to push air into marine box and out the vent tube....I had a battery in my trunk for probably 10 years now....

 

one bad thing about optimas compared to regular batteries is that when a regular baterry shorts it swells the case and will split and spill acid in your car ....however the optima being sealed with no vents can explode like a grenade in the event of a catastrophic failure ....and no this is not speculation ive seen the aftermath on my brothers 91 accord ....luckily we had a spare front clip for that car

 

whoah... lead-acid batteries can go ballistic... I had one explode when I was sitting on my lawnmower.... apparently the starter arced... since the battery and mower had been in storage...cold... the I brought it out in the sun....supposedly that little bit of warmth activated the production of H gas...when I turned the key...it blew a hole about the size of a quarter through the battery...scaring the crap out of me and getting acid all over my pants and legs....lucky I was protected by the steel seat lid

 

In a properly working system, sealed batteries don't really do this unless there is extreme overcharging involved.
It's a good idea as a safety precaution to do so anyway.
OPTIMA group 51 yellow tops have a port on them that you connect a vent tube to and there is no battery box required.
OPTIMA group 27, 78, 34C, and 31 (mostly blue tops and a couple red) have the tube port as well.

 

sealed batteries, lead-acid do vet to the atmosphere...have you ever opened a sealed battery to find the acid-water level to be low...over time they will need filling... it doesn't really take an overcharging scenario to of gas H.... say you play your audio components for a long time with the engine off... the battery may then force the alt to go to high amp charge once the engine restarts then lots of H activity ensues.....that's not really over-charging but the charge rate is so high that H activity produces lots of H and does require a vent.

 

im gonna get a oddyssey one and just make a bracket like the password jdm one fawk it

 

This mount works for the 680 and is a hell of a lot cheaper than the PWJDM mount.

http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=6395

 

that does look like a pretty good deal but i still think i can make one for cheaper....well see what happens i guessss

 

If you have to pay for the steel you could probably make it for around the price of shipping... Having a brake and shear would be handy, but not necessary. Hah, screw the brake - I would just TIG weld it...