Hey guys,

I'm looking for some reliable/efficient components to rebuild a B18C1 for weekend track use. Not building for a specific sanction, mostly just track days for practice and such.

Right now the block/head are completely stock. For the head, I was going to use S2 valves/springs/mild cams etc. for compatibility's sake, and I can get a decent discount through connections, but if there is a better option I'd like to know. I may or may not get the ports done, depending on if I send the block out or not.

For the bottom end, I was thinking OE CTR pistons, stock rods, ACL bearings, maybe get the crank done, hone cylinders and an IL4 headgasket.

Additionally, I'd use the ITR oil pump with a baffled pan so I don't starve the engine in tight turns.

Last...I currently have a half-size Mishimoto aluminum radiator that I used for daily driving. A lot of the track guys use the full size...is this better for sustained, high-RPM use? Being in California, I don't want to take any chances during the summer.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

 

full size it, won't be a problem.

drive the car, done deal.

 

Is this car a mixed daily and weekend track car?

Just put a full size radiator for reliability, change water/oil pump and baffled pan, timing belt if anything hasn't already. Take the money spent on an engine build and invest in more track days for seat time. Look at some Toyo or Nitto R-comp tires to gain more cornering speed.

All your mods are engine related, you looking to do anything with the trans? If this is a track only car (or at least a car you won't drive on the highway much), get a diff and 4.9 final installed and you'll have great accel at a fraction of engine mods to get the same performance. If you can, run your GSR 1,2 gears, add 3,4,5 from a B16 with the 4.9 final and you'll have a poor mans close ratio box.

 

Slow down on the modifying and do more on the driving and getting more seat time.
Full size radiator and go hit the track.
Just like Brad says... and i second.

 

Turbo.

 

bone stock with valve springs and retainers for safe reving is all u need. go through it and freshen it up and run it. skunk2 IM and a good header wil wake it up with a good tune up. as for the oil pump, iirc all the vtec pumps are the same. moroso 5.5qt roadrace pan (steel) is the way to go for your oil pan.
do a TON of events and when your getting the most out of the car, then think about stepping up the set up (engine, trans, suspension)

 

All b-series oil pumps are the same now. the numbers have superceded. There never was a "type r" oil pump though.

CTR pistons are going to give you unusable compression if you stay with the gs-r head too. JDM itr (p73-00) are a good option and will put you around 11.6:1 or so. Keep in mind that fuel quality is getting worse by the day in this country. Stock b18c rods are good, arp bolts are a nice $40 bit of insurance there, but they do require you to resize the rods since they are higher tension than the stock bolts. Other than that I would say stick to the oem parts where possible.

That all being said, if the motor is already in good running condish, leave it alone and drive the **** out of it until it actually needs to be rebuilt.

 

This car is not driven on the streets as it is, so I'm not worried about smog or registration. It is currently on PNO status. I suppose it might be a good idea to freshen up the motor as-is, get it BAR'd and re-register, and then build it later on down the road. Just in the event I ever need to put it back on the street.

The block is in rough shape, the rings are worn, compression is OK but it's not as good as it could be, and main bearings could be replaced after inspection.

The cams also have some galling so, at the very least, I HAVE to replace those. The valvetrain ticks like crazy. I'm sure I can find some GSR cams to use, though.

I figure might has well put ARP head studs, new headgasket and seals, replace the piston rings to improve the compression, and do the bearings? I would imagine the baffled oil pan is necessary to keep the oil where it needs to be too.

 

And another quick question regarding the brakes--

I have the weaker DX brakes with a rear disc setup. What do you guys recommend to beef this up - upgrade to the EX front assembly, or go to an aftermarket brake kit (i.e. Wilwood?). I used to go on mountain runs and such and by the end of the stretch my brakes would always get too hot. I already have some Hawk pads and powerslot rotors on it.

 

EX front brakes w/ decent pads and rotors f&r and 40/40 prop valve would kick ***.. ITR booster and master if you could.. and some SS lines.. as far as motor.. if the car is running.. do a tune up, adjust the valves. Inpect belt and run it how it is.. track time will make you faster than any motor set up in the road racing world.. get out there all you can man.. motor should be the last thing you want to do.. brakes, tires and safety come before motor set UPS for me.. unless **** hits the fan bro

 

Spend more time and money on your suspension than your motor and you will learn to driver faster, sooner and better than you will with a higher horsepower car in search of a straightaway on a road course with 12 to 15 turns in it.

Learn to drive clean lines, hold spend and accelerate when others are braking or coasting. Be able to get on throttle earlier and brake later than the high horsepower and high weight cars around you and you will have a blast. You aren't going to learn to be a better driver just because you have a B18 built for track. You can still get owned by lower h.p. cars with better suspensions. If you want proof positive of that, research the track times set by modest B16 builds in HC2.

Get some better track pads than what you been on. If you absolutely, positively have it in your mind to dump your existing brakes instead of just buying better pads, then just search on the brake swap threads and focus on Legend calipers, drilled Prelude blanks and upgrade the pads to something like Carbotech or anything that has not failed you in the past.

Put a 3 quart Accusump in the car and don't worry about the oil pan. Accusump solves oil starvation issues that you are rightfully concerned about. I believe that they are certainly in the majority of California HC cars over the past couple of years. Also run an oil cooler and use a full width radiator.

Perhaps you've already done this, but you didn't say. So here goes...you're better off starting with excellent suspension and handling. Any reliable B18 has plenty of power. I would not start with a built B18 all tricked out pushing a crappy handling car all over the track. I see those guys (not Honda, per se) and pass most of them all day long. And that is exaclty what will happen to you unless you make your car handle better and learn drive it well before you go all engine and horsepower on the brain.

My two cents worth...have fun.

 

what he said