Sup tr. Got a lil problem. if I step on gas lightly my car revs up and speeds up fine but if I stomp on it it chugs and hesitates... And stalls sometimes. No cel . Wat u think?Cars a stock single cam in a civic ex. Ive replaCed the iat, tps and map sensor. Car still does it. Thought it may of have been a ground so I regrounded the thermo ground with another direct battery ground and same Thing. Any info helps. U can text me also if u want. 954-328-6166
Thanks
Car also swallows gas. Getting horrible gas mileage

 

Have you replaced the fuel filter and measured the fuel pressure? Have you checked the ignition timing? How old are the plugs, wires, cap, rotor?

 

I actually just pulled plugs and wires out to look at them and they pretty bad and old. I plan on changing them tomorrow but would that account for the shitty gas mileage? Also cap and rotor are fairly new. Haven't replaced fuel filter since I've had the car but it doesn't look no where new lol.

Also I had no cel ad it just poped back on with I believe 40 but there is no 40 so imma say I missed the quick blink so it's 41 which is the primary o2

 

dirty iacv....? Get the helms service manual (factory manual) and with an ohm meter (multimeter) put one probe on the battery negative post and another on each ground listed on the car. The meter should report less than .5 ohms of resistance. Truthfully anything more than 0 ohms means dirty electrical contacts and or damaged ground cables but .5 should give you enough leeway. There are tons of grounds in the engine bay... One ground you will overlook is the o2 sensor's ground. The o2 sensor uses the exhaust manifold itself as an electrical ground to send its signal to the computer. With the o2 sensor still installed, probe the body of the o2 sensor (where you put the wrench on it) and another probe to battery negative cable, measure resistance, should be about 0 ohms. If it's more than that, then it could mean a few things. To keep things simple, make sure you scrub clean each electrical contact for the grounds thoroughly. If that still isn't enough to bring down the ohms, then inspect the exhaust manifold for any cracks, remove any heatshields that could be in the way in order to see for potential problems. If no crack, then remove o2 sensor, lightly scrub the threaded hole for any rust, reinstall o2 sensor and check again.

The grounds inside of the passenger compartment won't be easily tested so just clean them thoroughly, don't scrape any paint off, but just keep in mind when you're cleaning your electrical grounds to make sure the holes the ground cables bolt into are free of any debris or rust, etc.

Do a general, detailed scan around the engine bay for any loose or frayed connections.

Second thing I would do is looked for any cracked vacuum hoses, if any are found, replace them. Also should replace the PCV valve + grommet if you haven't done so already.

Third thing I should ask you, is your car really is warming up all the way? Watch the temperature gauge and see if it moves up as quickly as you think it should, maybe even post a picture.


Final things I should ask you:
What kind of fuel economy are you getting? Have you actually calculated it? If not, then please do! To calculate is very simple. First fill your tank until it's completely full. Rest the trip odometer, then drive the car for some time, maybe 200 miles if you want quick results, then when at the gas station, note the miles on the trip odometer, fill the gas tank then with a calculator, (miles/gallons of gasoline) and that will give you your MPG.

 

Bad ignition system components are the most common cause of poor mileage. Post a video of the blinking CEL. It's possible you have code 4 (CKP sensor circuit).

Timing? Fuel pressure?

 

Ok I take that back. Cars throwing 43 which is fuel supply system and 7 for tps.....

 

Code 43 indicates a problem with the O2 sensor or the fuel system (pressure, FPR, injectors).

Code 7 - test the TPS for input (reference) and output voltages.

 

yea i know lol. this tps is retarded. it had a cep for it then i reset it and didnt go off then it came on and it threw a 43 and thats it and then after a little more it threw a 7 also. wtf?? guess i got to find another tps and ill be swapping out the o2 sensor soon along with, wires, plugs and fuel filter.

 

Stop replacing parts and start doing some tests.

 

This car needs these parta anyway. It needs a tune up real bad
So once the tune up is complete I can go from there. I pulled cylinder 4 plug out and the plug had no gap and was disgusting like they were 4 yrs old an other 3 looked just as bad. Wires r all falling apart.

 

I completely agree with replacing obviously bad ignition system components. And don't forget to check the cap and rotor as well and to adjust the ignition timing to spec. Then reset the ECU to see whether either code returns.

My post was directed at your mention of replacing the O2 sensor and TPS. You should not do this without doing a test that indicates they're bad.

 

Like Ron says clean the IACV. See FAQ's

 

just to let everyone know, i was having slightly rough idle and when driving, accelerating, cruising etc. engine would repeatedly and unevenly, rhythm-wise, cut out and then go back to regular rpms, so like a bunch of kind of cut out and then resurge back to normal rpms, more so in higher rpms and less near idle, but still during idle and slow acceleration it would do the same thing.
when i revved the engine in neutral, it didn't have any noticeable surging and seemed fairly normal.

so i change the spark plugs and no difference,
recently installed new distributor so
next, changed the spark plug wires since the car's old and i haven't done that before, and $40 for a new spark plug wire set, completely solved the problem of cutting out, surging engine.

so the rough idle and surging seems a result of cutting out, i assume due to lack of electricity through what must have been shorting out through spark plug wires.

i thought i was going to have to go through the fuel filter, fuel pump, among other things mentioned here, but this worked and might save you some money.

 

I feel like this is the main problem with the d16z6 which I assume you have. Anything related to plugs wires dizzy

 

I had a similar problem with my Integra RS.
It also was the ignition wire being old and shorting out where it crossed another wire. Sometimes they break down in the boot when somebody pulls them off while doing other work. Honda ignitions are high capacity and you need good condition wires or you will notice a breakdown in acceleration. With just 4 cylinders it becomes real obvious.

 

Old thread closed.