Long story short. I thought the timing belt jumped (engine was running real rough and spun over fast like it had no compression) so I installed a new timing set. It sarted and ran fine, then acted up again, then next time i started it ran fine, then i would park it and it acted up again. i pulled it apart and and checked cam timing, still good.
FYI I did try to retrieve the CEL codes but had no luck, today i replace the CEL bulb and jumped the diagnostic port I get "0". Fuses that Ron says to check are good main relay re-soldered, I had fuel and fire when it was running rough. I have not check either now that it isnt running at all. The ecu does not smell or look burnt and the thermostat ground is clean and tight. will a car run on and off like this if the ecu is going out?
TY in advance.
93 DX

 

Does the fuel pump prime?

Is there spark at all four plugs?

Without the service connector jumped, does the CEL turn on and remain on steady when the key is turned to ON(II)?

 

CEL does not stay on unless jumped, just during initial power and jumped, I checked fuel at the pressure reg and had plenty of fuel. I only checked spark at 1 plug. I will check 4 plugs tomorrow. Thanks for replying, Ron. I was reading some of your other posts, seems like you know these cars in and out. I forgot to mention in the post, that the distributor has some oil in it leaking from the head. Is it possible it is messing up the CPS? I thought that was the possible culprit until I got the "0" code.
I will reply with spark info tomorrow.
James

 

Your ECU has no stored CEL codes and you have fuel pressure. Was there bright white spark at the one plug you tested?

 

Update: I checked spark on all 4 wires; each was weak and yellow. Battery voltage is only 12.4V, so that might have something to do with yellow spark. I am giving it a quick top-off and will see if spark improves, I will update in then.

 

You battery is probably fine. Weak spark is often caused by a bad coil. Test it:



Also note that old or bad ignition system components can cause a coil to fail so you also may want to do a tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) if the coil tests bad.

 

Is the oil inside or outside the distributor? If the oil is inside the distributor, then the internal oil seal is bad and needs to be replaced. Here's a DIY:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-internal-seal-distributor-internal-oil-leak-2214402/

 

Ok here are the readings A-B 1.2 Ohms and A-secondary 16.8k

 

For the A-B reading, was the multimeter set on the lowest Ohm scale, for example 20 or 200 Ohms? Or do you have an auto ranging meter? When you touch the two meter leads together on the lowest Ohm scale, what is the reading (internal resistance of meter)?

 

yes it is auto ranging, and I did check the scale. I is 1.2 ohms on p and 16.8 K on secondary. Also keep in mind, that I measured through 1 screw, since the hack who had the car before me stripped it out.

 

 

internal 0.5 Ohms and across meter leads and across - and + (without screws) 1.2-1.3 Ohms so looks like 0.7-0.8 I guess this means the coil is ok right?

 

The coil should be about cool (68F) when the test is done. Is this the approximate temp for the coil tests?

 

I would say no higher than 85F, if you think that is too warm I will bring it in the house and cool it down
BTW with bat @ 14.4V still yellow spark.

 

As the coil is the most common cause of weak spark, I would remove it from the car, bring it in doors to cool, and then redo the test.

 

Will do, but what do you think about the CEL 0

 

You do not have CEL code 0.

Code 0 = CEL on steady both with and without the service connector jumped.

When the CEL is off without the service connector jumped and on steady only with service connector jumped, it means no codes are thrown (=good).

 

coil @ 68F is 6-7 Ohms A-B

 

Before or after subtracting internal resistance?

 

after

 

Well, it's within spec resistance. Once in a while, the coil tests good but is not, though I would not replace it until you do other tests. I suggest you take the igniter unit to an auto parts store for testing.

 

Where is this oil leak?

 

coming through the shaft i guess. o ring leaks, I have tried to replace it a couple of times, but it just keeps leaking. do I have to use a square shouldered o ring or is round ok?

 

Internal or external distributor leak?

 

internal, although it does leak externally too