yes i know everyone says hit the search button but still, that didn't help. just finished building my motor to day slapped everything together crank's but will not run??? only check engine light is cel6 when it does run its real lumpy and horribly bogs. and turns off. just need a answer could that stupid *** sensor really **** everything up that bad where the motor does want to run? please help me. thats why tomorrow after work can change it out and try again

 

Not enough info.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/threads-must-summarize-technical-problem-title-list-car-details-first-post-2809571/

 

Creating a thread title that summarizes your specific tech problem helps you get more responses by letting members know what specific information is needed -- Title edited.


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If you hope to get useful replies, then provide all pertinent information about your car and engine:

 

OK well its a 2000 civic dx with jdm type r swap skunk 2 cams stage 1 everything else is stock happened after i changed out the head gasket and timing belt. before never had a problem once everything was done slapped everything together torqued it down added oil and water this check engine light popped on and runs like **** and doesn't want to stay on.

 

as an update i replaced the sensor and still nothing same **** check engine light code six.

 

THe ECT sensor under the distributor has two wires. Check those two wires -- one may be broken or has a short.

 

yea one isn't really broken but the insulation is missing but the wire is still connected could that be the possibility?

 

if the wire is exposed it wil ground out with any metal around it.

 

thing is no metal is touching it i covered it up with some ecltricle tape still same **** no results yet

 

Repair ALL exposed wires and TEST the wires with a multimeter. If you are unwilling to do this, there's not much anyone can help you with.

 

who said i was unwilling? i alredy took out the whole hanress and taking off all the tap and sheathing and going to go thru the whole thing and find what going on.

 

check it with a volt meter and its reads out good all the way to the plug to the ecu. how could you check if the sensor is good or not? because already replaced it twice and still check engine light

 

I had a broken wire at that connector (insulation still there, wire inside was broken) so I cut/pulled the plug loose and took it to the Honda dealer and the guy at the Honda parts counter went in back and came out with 2 new tiny blade connectors for the plug (in stock!) and even pried the plug open for me (there's a rubber plug that can be pried/coaxed out with a tiny screwdriver). Got home and with some crimpers the whole plug/wires assy were like brand new and my intermittent CEL gone.

However, the car still ran fine even when the CEL was on. Probably just went to a default map or something.

I must say, in all the times I've gone to the Honda parts counter I've always been pleasantly surpised. Some parts are more available, cheaper and better than the auto parts stores (and hardly ever anyone else there).

 

****en a bro going to try tommorow. but the wire is still good has signal all the way to the ecu,

 

What voltage did you measure and on what wire and how did you do the test? Give details.

In addition, a voltage test does not reveal all wire problems. You need to Ohm test both ECT sensor wires to check for an open and short test the wires by checking for continuity to body ground. The sensor can be tested by warming up the engine, unplugging the sensor, and measuring its resistance. It should read 200-400 Ohms.

 

i did a simple open close loop test with a volt meter to check if there any breaks in the two wires. to late right now to check the resistance car is extremal loud.

 

The ECU also outputs a reference voltage to the ECT sensor connector. Voltage test for that as well.

So you have multiple electrical tests that still need to be done:

1) Measure reference voltage at the ECT connector.
2) Ohm test both wires.
3) Short test both wires.
4) Resistance test the sensor.

Doing ALL of these tests will pinpoint the problem. If all tests are fine, then swap in a known good ECU.

 

ok well i did the short test alredy. and the olm test cold right now i did came out to 0.854 right now.

 

How did you do the short and Ohm tests?

 

i did the short be just checking if there any breaks in the line. i didnt check for how meny ohm thru the wire. what should be the right number?

 

Visual inspection is unreliable when it comes to electrical problems. You need a digital multimeter to do the correct test. Do you have one?

 

yes i have a fluke multi volt meter bro i did do it by a visual test i had one lead on the ecu pin out and one lead on the sensor plug put the volt meter on the beep switch to check for breaks and it beeped meaning their are no breaks and their is flow to end to end went to the other wire to check and the lead on the ground same thing all good thats how i checked it

 

This tells you that neither wire is broken. That leaves the short, voltage, and sensor resistance tests.

 

ok what range of ohm am i looking at for each test?