Hi Guys / Ladies.

I am coming back with a brand new question.

A couple of days ago a friend of mine came with a manifold that he boght some months ago that cracked around 6 or 7 times in different spots.

He wants me to make a copy of it from steam pipe.

Could you help me with some photos of you manifold jigs....in order to get some ideas!


Thanks,

B

 

watch this video... its for standard headers, but could give you an idea of how to mock the collector to the head flange.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bc-KhMl-6ss

i wouldnt stress too much about runner placement and making it 100% identical unless there was an area that was really close tolerances.

 

I suggest that EVERYONE watch this series of videos. There are a few good tips for every skill level.

 

I've seen those video series! they're just awsome for a bigginer like me... there is a lot of good information and tips

I love those vids, I have them on PC, and like to watch them once in a while

 

Is this JIG good enough you guys?

 

BIG Thanks to you my friend!

You saved my life with this series of videos!

 

No problemo.

 

What manifold is that in the jig?

 

Looks like an ETS evo manifold. Someone trying to make a copy? That jig is going to be extremely difficult to weld in.

 

Exactly what I was thinking....

 

Yeah it's an ETS manifold that has cracked 6 or 7 times in different spots, all welds are not purged because they don't need to be purged (the welds have no root because they were welded without a bevel), alot of undercuts!
I am not saying that I can do better but I can say that I will try in making better than that......

This is the final JIG.......





Opinionions please!!!!

 

Check out the jig that I made .....stole the idea with the exhaust clamps!

 

Nothing you said made any sense about the welds... can you even remove the manifold from your jig?
So because a pipe is not beveled, it doesn't need to be purged? And its undercut? Please explain this

 

I have no idea how you plan to build runners let alone even stand any chance @ welding 90% of those joints. The more welding done outside of that jig the higher the chance the runners are to shrink/distort and not come close to fitting back up.

What bothers me about this is you are basically setting up to 100% copy/produce another vendors manifold piece by piece.

 

Here you are very wrong!

This is a manifold which a friend of mine bought as kit from ETS!

The manifold had some ''issues'' and this guy who bought it is a real close friend of mine and he asked me to make another manifold which can fit on his car with the turbo, downpipe and everything that he allready has so that he doesn't need to make another downpipe......and that the manifold will fit thorugh all the tight spots!

Basicly I am just trying to make a jig to know where the tight spots are.

The only thing that I can tell you....Don't bother because I will make only 1 manifold like this one!!!!

I AM NOT TRYING TO BA A SMALL CHINEESE! I am just trying to help a friend!

 

If that's the case, you could simply jig the turbo and wastegate position and get creative with your own manifold that would still fit the rest of his kit rather then 100% copying ets. Also, I'm pretty sure ets would take care of the problems or work with him on getting a new manifold.

Another thing, there is many ways to make a manifold fit a evo as I've built plenty. If your wanting to be a custom fabricator, painting a picture that's been painted by someone else doesn't stand out. Again... just saying

 

Collin thank you very much for your advice!

But there's a couple of problems about this.
1. This friend of mine lives 500 kms away from me ( and I don't have his car in the shop)
2. This is the 1'st manifold that i am building and this is the main reason why I am making this jig so complicated
3. After I will finish with the manifold I need to send it back because he will send it to ETS for warranty


Again I am saying and I hope that everyone understands what I trying to say / make the correct way....I AM NOT TRYING TO STEAL NOBODYS WORK!

 

And to complete what I was saying.....my opinion is the manifold cracked because Romania (My country) is full of holes in the roads ......thus big vibrations induced in the manifold.

 

Or it cracked because it wasn't welded properly, as you said it wasn't purged and there is zero penetration...

 

Or.....as you said....who knows.

IMO if a manifold is braced properly and it's made out of thick wall piping and of course welded properly it shouldn't crack.

 

A manifold is a brace, there should be no need for braces because of thermal expansion. The manifold needs to be able to expand and contract with heat cycles.

 

Then I don't know why it cracked so badly and so many times.The piping is sch 10 1 1/2.
I put on the s&^y roads from this God forgoten country

 

Haha, you took a little too much from that video. The exhaust clamps and jig works so well in that video because of how big the headers are. You don't need to know every angle of every turn in the turbo manifold, you only need to know the outer restraints that the manifold needs to fit in and where the collector/wasetgate/headflange are in coorelation to each other. The rest you can make up.

 

This is how I build my manifold fixtures or fixtures for any other type of part I make. I think i have a little over 40 helicoils in this fixture. Still not done yet though.

 

Thanks for the replys.
Yeah I know I have made too much but I am scared that I will not finish this job properly

Good luck to me then

Thanks again for all your replys and the much appreciated help!