is it the rings?
Hey I was wondering, my car threw code 16 (Fuel Injectors,) and started running like ****. If I rev past 3k it throws the CEL on. So I check the spark plugs and 1 out of 4 are drenched on the electrode. (And NO its NOT the spark plug/Valve Cover gaskets, on the threads NOT the Tube seal. I also have gas in the oil. Anyways, I removed the head because Im told it could be the valve seals/guides. I found a remanufactured head on EBAY with all new parts. So I need to know If it could be a stuck injector or maybe even my rings. I've uploaded a pic of the two center pistons (looks like carbon or oil idk, the two on outside are spotless, maybe to spotless. Anyways if you guys could figurs this out for me it would be much appreciated, and yes i've googled with -results. Thanks again.
that pic is not much to go on but anyways , did the coolant get onto the pistons when you removed the head ?
if the coolant is leaking into the piston chambers you might have a bigger issue post more pics if you can that pic is not to good
if the coolant is leaking into the piston chambers you might have a bigger issue post more pics if you can that pic is not to good
Ya I know I should of done the leakdown test, just a little low on funds. And I know the pic isnt that good, Just the only one I got. and yes the coolant was from when I removed the head. I was just a little curious as to why the pistons look brown and goldish yellow. Im hoping that there not seized up. I mean I can turn the crankshaft by hand but it's really tuff. Thanks again guys and I will try to post better pics when I can.
you should rebuild, you already have it apart. anyways code 16 I would check the injectors with a multimeter. make sure their in spec. the service manual can tell you the ohms or you can google it. if they are not in spec then you have a bad injector, if they are in spec then its the continuity between the ecu and the injectors.
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Sounds like you've got a leaking or stuck open injector. Fuel is pouring into that cylinder and making it miss (why it runs bad), fuel is then getting past the rings into the oil(cause the is cylinder full of fuel), and ecm is throwing code. Put your head back on and test your injectors.
Thanks guys, Ya I put a multi-meter on the injectors and they all read 3.4 ohms. And the motor isn't new, It's got at least 100k on it. I put the old head on it, with a new head gasket, but I received a refurbished one today. I could still the leak down and see, but my dad is coming down on the first and he's going to do a compression test and check it out for me. Then were going to put the new head on and go from there. I'm hoping its the injectors and not continuity. If it is continuity, how would I go about fixing that? I've been carless for 2 months and I just want to FN Drive.. Thanks again for your replys. Much Appreciated
Sounds like you've got a leaking or stuck open injector. Fuel is pouring into that cylinder and making it miss (why it runs bad), fuel is then getting past the rings into the oil(cause the is cylinder full of fuel), and ecm is throwing code. Put your head back on and test your injectors.
Thanks guys, Ya I put a multi-meter on the injectors and they all read 3.4 ohms. And the motor isn't new, It's got at least 100k on it. I put the old head on it, with a new head gasket, but I received a refurbished one today. I could still the leak down and see, but my dad is coming down on the first and he's going to do a compression test and check it out for me. Then were going to put the new head on and go from there. I'm hoping its the injectors and not continuity. If it is continuity, how would I go about fixing that? I've been carless for 2 months and I just want to FN Drive.. Thanks again for your replys. Much Appreciated 

Ok, So I tested my injectors with a multimeter, and from dizy to drivers side they read; 3.2, 3.2, 3.4, 3.1. Im looking online everywhere and its telling me that low impedence injectors are supposed to read between 1.5 and 2.0 Ohms. I have my multimeter set to 200 which is the lowest setting. Can anyone confirm what these injectors are supposed to read for this motor? Thanks again
Rotate your crank so the pistons are all the way down.
Inspect your cylinder walls and see if there are smooth spots
A new engine will be rough like this pic

Something like this is BAD to the point where a honing isn't going to fix it.
Obviously something funky happened up at the top, but the rest of the cylinder is worn pretty smooth (notice the nearly clear reflections).
Needs to come out for an oversize bore to fit oversize pistons and rings.
Also, any vertical scratches might tell you a ring broke and left you a note on the cylinder wall.

Wear spots show up smooth and shiny like the ones shown towards the bottom of the cylinders in the pic below.
(The engine has a hone job started on it, but the wear spots were too deep for it)
They are normal on high mileage motors, but if they are excessive then the block should be torn down for inspection (to see if you need a bore) and at least a hone and new piston rings.
Inspect your cylinder walls and see if there are smooth spots
A new engine will be rough like this pic

Something like this is BAD to the point where a honing isn't going to fix it.
Obviously something funky happened up at the top, but the rest of the cylinder is worn pretty smooth (notice the nearly clear reflections).
Needs to come out for an oversize bore to fit oversize pistons and rings.
Also, any vertical scratches might tell you a ring broke and left you a note on the cylinder wall.

Wear spots show up smooth and shiny like the ones shown towards the bottom of the cylinders in the pic below.
(The engine has a hone job started on it, but the wear spots were too deep for it)
They are normal on high mileage motors, but if they are excessive then the block should be torn down for inspection (to see if you need a bore) and at least a hone and new piston rings.
Last edited by 4drEF; Aug 25, 2011 at 03:59 PM.
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