easiest way to replace an axle seal
My gsr tranny on my del sol has an axle seal leak, I replaced it but when I did I pushed it in all the way and didn't leave it flush..so now it leaks, I already got an alignment n **** done to it so I'm trying to see if there's a way to do it with out messing up my alignment, I don't have the time nor the money to do it again but this leak is getting annoying....any help will be appreciated thanks
alignment? unless you remove the inner/outer tie rods or mess with them i dont see why you would need an alignment, after taking an axle out and replacing the seal on the tranny.
are you doing this yourself? go to an auto parts store and buy a haynes or chilton repair manual, they have step by step directions on how to do this. or, you can download a honda factory service manual (the links are here on hondatech somewhere) and find the process in there.
are you doing this yourself? go to an auto parts store and buy a haynes or chilton repair manual, they have step by step directions on how to do this. or, you can download a honda factory service manual (the links are here on hondatech somewhere) and find the process in there.
Yea that makes Sense,the reason I asked is cuz several ppl told me everytime I take any of my suspension apart I'm gunna need an alignment and I wanna make sure my tires don't get messed fast after I do it since I recently started commuting , thanks
Disconnecting the ball joint from the lower control arm will not require an alignment after. I'd imagine you can grab that seal with nippers or pliers and yank it out. Be careful not to scratch the seat for the seal or screw up the seal with the axle splines when reinstalling the axle. Clean the area real good and lube it up with some clean oil and knock the new seal in square with a flat piece of wood and a hammer. A thick piece of PVC pipe with a similar diameter to the seal may work well as a driver. Use patience get it started and work slowly. You want it to go in as squarely as possible. If one side is going in faster then tap on the opposite side to straighten it and keep working it in like that. As long as it doesn't go totally crooked you'll be alright.
Use a torque wrench and torque all the fasteners involved in the job to spec.
Use a torque wrench and torque all the fasteners involved in the job to spec.
You will be fine without an alignment. Just be sure not to fully tighten & toque the lower damper-fork bolt/nut until the car is back on the ground. This will keep the LCA bushing from getting twisted.
If you tighten that bolt with the suspension at full droop (with the car up on jackstands), the bushing will twist considerably when the suspension compresses back to normal ride height. Then the bushing will remain twisted everywhere you driving causing it to tear & wear out prematurely.
This goes for all suspension bolts that go through the center of a rubber bushing.
If you tighten that bolt with the suspension at full droop (with the car up on jackstands), the bushing will twist considerably when the suspension compresses back to normal ride height. Then the bushing will remain twisted everywhere you driving causing it to tear & wear out prematurely.
This goes for all suspension bolts that go through the center of a rubber bushing.
You do realize that you do not have to loosen the axle nut in order to pull out the axle enough to replace/ repair the seal. Just bust loose the ball joint and MAYBE the tire rod to hub joint and the tranny axle end will come out completely from the tranny.
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You will be fine without an alignment. Just be sure not to fully tighten & toque the lower damper-fork bolt/nut until the car is back on the ground. This will keep the LCA bushing from getting twisted.
If you tighten that bolt with the suspension at full droop (with the car up on jackstands), the bushing will twist considerably when the suspension compresses back to normal ride height. Then the bushing will remain twisted everywhere you driving causing it to tear & wear out prematurely.
This goes for all suspension bolts that go through the center of a rubber bushing.
If you tighten that bolt with the suspension at full droop (with the car up on jackstands), the bushing will twist considerably when the suspension compresses back to normal ride height. Then the bushing will remain twisted everywhere you driving causing it to tear & wear out prematurely.
This goes for all suspension bolts that go through the center of a rubber bushing.
Last edited by strategy400; Aug 23, 2011 at 11:31 AM.
Bandit67 you made a job I thought was gunna take me an hour or two into a 15 min thing....thanks a lot hella appreciate it!!! Finally leak free !!!!!!!!
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