any sugestions on what motor i should drop in my EF
Ok guys so I have a 89 hatchy SI I got a few weeks back ... I'm trying to put together a game plan and list of what I would need once I decide on what to drop in.
This is my first build so ill be looking for help once in a while
Any help and suggestions is appreciated.
This is my first build so ill be looking for help once in a while
Any help and suggestions is appreciated.
Well first what are your goals for the build? And do you actually need a new motor or are you just wanting to do it for the heck of it? My first swap was a JDM dohc 1.6L zc, which I would suggest for a easy swap(for an si I did it to my Dx), decent power, and cheap. If your in cali, you may not want to because of legality. But its up to you im biased, just do your research.
U can run a sohc zc in ca with no problems
Op what are u looking for
Daily driver with some ***** or track star
Budget?
Op what are u looking for
Daily driver with some ***** or track star
Budget?
Yea it needs a motor its just a complete shell right now..
My goals are a dd with ***** and ranging from 250+ HP with just bolt ons ..
My budget control is my wife LOL I would go get a loan out and do a k serious turbo swap but I just got to get some decent $$$ together and b patient...
I heard some bad things about the b20 swaps like not being dependable ..
Then some friends say just do a b16 build because you could get more power then the b20
There are so many combos you could do just need to know what's the best one for what I'm trying to do
Thanks for the help
My goals are a dd with ***** and ranging from 250+ HP with just bolt ons ..
My budget control is my wife LOL I would go get a loan out and do a k serious turbo swap but I just got to get some decent $$$ together and b patient...
I heard some bad things about the b20 swaps like not being dependable ..
Then some friends say just do a b16 build because you could get more power then the b20
There are so many combos you could do just need to know what's the best one for what I'm trying to do
Thanks for the help
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B20vtec is completely reliable... Its the ppl that use worn out blocks, throw on a worn head, and put it all together ghetto that give b20v a bad name....
As for 250 with bolt ons, ull pretty much need to go h or k series for that.... and ull be lucky to get up to 250
Haha BONE STOCK b20 > b16
As for 250 with bolt ons, ull pretty much need to go h or k series for that.... and ull be lucky to get up to 250
Haha BONE STOCK b20 > b16
U can get to 250 with bolt ons if u start with the right engine. But laugh all u want...
Thanks cris... I'll post pics of what I get after my build
Thanks cris... I'll post pics of what I get after my build
250whp out of a B20 will require more than just bolt ons. Is it possible on pump gas, yes. will it be easy, no.
What's your budget?
Btw, your "friend" has no clue. B16s can't make more power than a B20.
What's your budget?
Btw, your "friend" has no clue. B16s can't make more power than a B20.
Yea that's why I joined this forum bro cus I'm new to the scene and I'm getting so many different opinions..
Budget is about 3000 for now but well see..
And yes about the b16 over powering the b20 I wouldn't think so just by the little research that I've done..
For example h22 or b20 what are the pros and cons???
Thanks for the response guys
Budget is about 3000 for now but well see..
And yes about the b16 over powering the b20 I wouldn't think so just by the little research that I've done..
For example h22 or b20 what are the pros and cons???
Thanks for the response guys
B16 has more horsepower than a b20, but horsepower aint everything.
Look at the tourqe on the b16 compared to a b20. The b16 is close to a single cam when it comes to torque.
B20=
Pros: lighter, nice torque powerband, cheap (500 low comp, 650 higher comp), ability to go b20vtec, or even turbo it. Looks like it fits.
Cons: Unibody sleeves said to be on the weaker side (only when ur putting out massive power), when goin b20v, cant put too aggressive of a cam or the valves will hit pistons (unless u do in-valve fly cutting)
H22= dont kno too much about besides more torque!, BUT theyre a lil heavier, weaker cylinder walls, and Ive heard some have overheating problems after long drives? idk tho.
EDIT:
First gen b16: Power: 160 PS (118 kW; 158 hp) @ 7,600 rpm & 15.5 kg·m (152 N·m; 112 ft·lbf) @ 7,000 rpm
b20b: Power: 147 hp (110 kW) @ 6200 rpm Torque: 133 lb·ft (180 N·m) @ 4800 rpm
Look at the tourqe on the b16 compared to a b20. The b16 is close to a single cam when it comes to torque.
B20=
Pros: lighter, nice torque powerband, cheap (500 low comp, 650 higher comp), ability to go b20vtec, or even turbo it. Looks like it fits.
Cons: Unibody sleeves said to be on the weaker side (only when ur putting out massive power), when goin b20v, cant put too aggressive of a cam or the valves will hit pistons (unless u do in-valve fly cutting)
H22= dont kno too much about besides more torque!, BUT theyre a lil heavier, weaker cylinder walls, and Ive heard some have overheating problems after long drives? idk tho.
EDIT:
First gen b16: Power: 160 PS (118 kW; 158 hp) @ 7,600 rpm & 15.5 kg·m (152 N·m; 112 ft·lbf) @ 7,000 rpm
b20b: Power: 147 hp (110 kW) @ 6200 rpm Torque: 133 lb·ft (180 N·m) @ 4800 rpm

OP, build a motor from scratch man. You'll have a nice, reliable engine when it's all said and done and you'll know exactly what is in it.
Look up Bam Bam's old thread on how to build a reliable B20Vtec. Don't skimp on the important stuff and you'll have a motor that lasts a very long time. The most important thing to do when you're done assembling the motor is to have it dyno tuned. I've seen countless builds in my area take a complete **** because the owners refused to tune. They thought their mad tyte JDM chipped ECUs were all they needed to run these engines properly.

OP, build a motor from scratch man. You'll have a nice, reliable engine when it's all said and done and you'll know exactly what is in it.
Look up Bam Bam's old thread on how to build a reliable B20Vtec. Don't skimp on the important stuff and you'll have a motor that lasts a very long time. The most important thing to do when you're done assembling the motor is to have it dyno tuned. I've seen countless builds in my area take a complete **** because the owners refused to tune. They thought their mad tyte JDM chipped ECUs were all they needed to run these engines properly.

Here OP, good info

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/
i have a 6 y/o b20vtec in my wagon now. stock internal with just intake. raped a lsv with ctr piston, built itr head and stage 3 cams.
if you have 3k to play, building a b20vtec is like 1g minus trans. you want power, get a b16 trans. but sacrifice gas miles a bit since you mentioned dd with *****. the rest of the money if you are still putting it into the motor, then some pro1 cams or good known power making bolt ons upgrade exhaust and tune. thats just me.
if you have 3k to play, building a b20vtec is like 1g minus trans. you want power, get a b16 trans. but sacrifice gas miles a bit since you mentioned dd with *****. the rest of the money if you are still putting it into the motor, then some pro1 cams or good known power making bolt ons upgrade exhaust and tune. thats just me.
Wow great info guys thanks ... Yea I'm leaning more on the b20vtec ... The more I do research on people with b20 setups I like it more and more
Anyone know a good place to pic one up here in southern cali...
Anyone know a good place to pic one up here in southern cali...
Do it from scratch, ull save more $$ in the end. Buy a b20 block from a junkyard, make sure its in decent condition, and rebuild it. Then buy a b16 head. Theres posts all over craigslist for REBUILT 2000 b16 heads from some shop for 500 bux.
YLM sells blocks for cheap. Picked up a clean b20 block for 100 bux and just rebuilt it a while back.
If ur going for a FULL engine, hmotors by far is the best. Picked up my 2000 b20b from there and it looked so clean under the valve cover, it looked like some1 drove it for a couple thousand miles, than stopped.
Highly vouch for steve:thumbup
YLM sells blocks for cheap. Picked up a clean b20 block for 100 bux and just rebuilt it a while back.
If ur going for a FULL engine, hmotors by far is the best. Picked up my 2000 b20b from there and it looked so clean under the valve cover, it looked like some1 drove it for a couple thousand miles, than stopped.
Highly vouch for steve:thumbup
b20b block 300, 00 b16 head with obd1 manifold setup 350, arp head stud 110, head gasket 55, b16 trans 300, clutch/fly 350 (varies) stock header and intake. home made vtec kit/dowel pin, ~25. thats what i paid for my setup. since your budget is 3k and the setup is roughly about 1600 hen the rest can go to bolt on, obd1 conversion, maintenance parts (tbelt, oil/water pump, plugs/wires etc) then you got a solid build and a pretty fast healthy motor for the price.
ive done 7 b20vtec and they all run very strong and everyone loved it. my friend took a ride in my wagon and he says my car pulls harder than his mild built lsvtec. that makes me happy haha.
ive done 7 b20vtec and they all run very strong and everyone loved it. my friend took a ride in my wagon and he says my car pulls harder than his mild built lsvtec. that makes me happy haha.


