93 EX coupe, h22 swap, just finished my rear disc swap(from 97 Teg), bleed the brakes for an hour and STILL barely have any brakes. It'll stop but you really have to push them... but doesn't go right to the floor. I have a 7/8 MC (which is fine so don't tell me that's the issue) and the stock Prop valve(which is also fine)

I bled them in order RR,LR,RF,LF... unless my findings were incorrect.

The only other thing I can think of is because the bleeder valve on the rear is not pointing directly up, but the are deff on the side each one is suppose to be.... I'm stumped....

 

Bench bled the M/C? I thought you needed a 15/16 proportioning valve?

 

15/16 MC** and 40/40 Prop valve. I haev a 30/40 Prop.

And no. a 7/8 will work fine, and the prop valve does not need to be changed unless u do alot of hard braking and on dirt roads. I did quite a bit of research on that. If you have a 13/16 MC then you deff need to upgrade to at least a 7/8 but might as well just put the bigger one in.

 

Bump

 

Did you bench bleed the M/C?
And you shouldn't bump a thread right after you've just replied to it.

 

I never took it out over anything... and I feel stupid, but idk what/how to bench bleed something :x

My bad for bumping, I'm just mad bored at work searching the forums trying to help anyone out that I can.

 

You're bleeding them wrong. RR, LF, LR, FR IIRC. They're a dual channel setup, diagonally opposite wheels are on the same circuit in case a line gets busted. bleeding in the traditional furthest to closest manner just moves the air around.

 

SWEET! I did see that somewhere but I think it was in a post about ABS brakes. I've never really done much brake work, so thats why I am stumped, Maybe I can make a one-man bleeder here at work somehow and try it.

But never-the-less! I still learn something new everyday!!

 

when you swap to disk brakes you also have to replace the brake booster. because your old one is to small, it can't build up enough pressure... simple fix

 

As I have stated twice in this post, I have a 7/8 MC and it is big enough, maybe not long term, but it has no effect on the way my brakes are acting right now.

I have done ALOT of research on this and I KNOW my MC and Prop are fine and do NOT need to be changed, but eventually they will be. But they still aren't the cause of my issue.

 

No...

Take a look at the Del Sol VTEC or the JDM Civic SiR hatch, they both used a 7/8MC stock non ABS civic booster and 3030 prop valve. with rear disc brakes and non ABS EX front brakes.

 

YOU ONLY NEED A BIGGER MC IF YOU INSTALL BIGGER FRONT CALIPERS!!!!

As for the OP, give re-bleeding a try again. Must be air in the system. And yes, RR, LF, LR, RF is the correct order for non-abs EG.

After you get good pressure, don't forget to set your parking brake mechanisms. Loosen the e-brake adjuster a bunch (by the handle), start the car, press the brake pedal hard repeatedly, shut off car, then readjust your e-brake handle.

This helps even out the pull between the two cables.

 

Hmm, was wondering why one pulled way more than the other. That's 2 things learned today!

And remember kids, once you learn something, no one can take it from you!!

 

Loosened the e-brake cable, bled in the criss-cross way and still nothing... same as it has been. I did hear some air come out, but the pedal still hasn't changed....

 

had this issue before on one of mine. turned out one of the washers for the brake lines was leaking just slightly, almost unnoticeable.

your original complaint says "it will stop, but you REALLy have to push them" if the pedal is HARD to push, then its a booster issue. you either put the one way valve on backwards or the booster is bad.

if the pedal is soft and they barely stop, then its a bleeding issue (or leaking)

 

It's not hard, about half way there is nothing, then it starts catching and starts to stop, and starts to feel like it should but only about half way down. After you said about the washer, I did notice a TINY bit of fluid on the washer at one of the rear brake calipers, Guess i'll go hunt down some new brass washers tomorrow.

 

Ok, so i just changed both of the brass washers on all for calipers, bench bled the MC... bled all 4 lines and now they are worse than they were before. Still have brakes, but not till almost at the floor.

And the only way I can bleed them is with a cheap One-Man bleeder from Napa becasue heaven forbid if someone can't help me for a minute.... maybe that's my issue?

 

I've had to bleed brake systems before alone, easiest way is a length of rubber tubing that is tight on the bleeder, run the tubing into a bottle with brakefluid covering the end of the hose, pump the pedal, release the bleeder, than press the pedal to the floor, I use a block of wood to hold the pedal against the floor, go tighten the bleeder.

Not as good as having a helper work the pedal for you, but effective enough to get the job done.

Are you sure the brake booster is functioning, no vacuum leak and the one way valve is installed in the correct orientation? Sounds to me like a brake booster issue.

 

I don't see why it would be the booster. I didn't touch anything, just the rear brakes and line from the hard line to the caliper. And took the front calipers off. I have NEVER had any issues before. Brakes worked perfectly fine with the drums, were a little soft for about the first inch then they caught just fine.

Actually, I did unhook the hose at the booster, then hooked it right back up, but I don't see why that would have anything to do with it.

 

If you booster went bad, your brake pedal would be rock hard.

 

sounds like your master is bad.

the best way to check is to pull it off, bench bleed it, put it back on and then rebleed the system

take a large bottle of brake fluid and turn it upside down in the reservior (it will NOT pour out)

that way you dont have to keep refilling it, it will auto refill. then bleed the hell out of it.

when you take the bottle off the res. it will pour a little over, wipe it off.

if its still bad you have a leak or a bad MC

have you adjusted the pedal free play?

 

Didn't know you could adjust it?

If Im on a dirt road going 30ish and i Push it till it grabs, than a lil harder my front will lock up like they did before.

I don't see how I would have a leak, I have checked EVERYWHERE and there is no signs of any fluid coming outa the lines anywhere....

 

i have had issues with air in the master cylinder that wouldnt come out, even with a vacuum bleeder.

the best way to do it is bench bleed...this can be done easily with a screw driver, a pair of rubber gloves and your very own fingers.

step 1 - remove master cylinder

step 2- put on gloves (they help seal the ports)

step 3- put screw driver end in the end of the master cylinder and put the handle against your belt buckel.

step 4- put fingers over the holes to seal them and pump the cylinder

step 5 - after pressure builds release ONE of your fingers for a second to release the pressure PUT IT BACK ON BEFORE RELEASING THE PLUNGER OR YOU WILL SUCK AIR BACK IN

step 6 - repeat 4 and 5 and do the other finger (since it has 2 holes), i do each one 3 times.

step 7 - put back in car being careful not to push the plunger.

now its properly bench bled.

then do what i said before while bleeding the rest of the system

take a large bottle of brake fluid and turn it upside down in the reservior (it will NOT pour out)

that way you dont have to keep refilling it, it will auto refill. then bleed the hell out of it.

when you take the bottle off the res. it will pour a little over, wipe it off.

 

what if i just get some really short brake lines and hook them onto it and bend them up into the MC... fill it and just pump the pedal 109234576 times?

 

you can do that, my way is faster. i was showed this method by a 20 something year honda mechanic when i worked my short while at the dealership. he also worked for the 18 interstate batteries team way back when they won the daytona 500. he is nuts, but a cool guy who knows his stuff

never failed me