NJ K20a2 Crx Cowl Hood Original Paint No Rust Coilovers Complete Runs Strong
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 344
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From: New Jersey
K20a2 Crx Cowl Hood Original Paint No Rust Coilovers Complete Runs Strong
Up for sale here is a 1991 Crx Dx with a K20a2 swap done completely right by myself with no shortcuts taken. Inspection sticker good until the end of April of 2013!
PRICE DROP
$5800obo without Rotas
$6200 with
Body/Paint: I tore down the car to a bare shell, cut out what very minor rust it had, and coated all metal in the remote vicinity of any rust with Rust Bullet (the best anti-rust product on the market). I also coated the bottoms of the rocker panels. I then filled in the small holes with bondo, sanded it down in stages. I then applied high build primer, sanded that with 600 grit and painted it with color match spray. It came out almost perfectly. The rest of the car has the original paint with the exception of the custom cowl hood. This car will never rust again, not the way I did it, it’s solid as a rock. The chassis itself had no rust, this car was from a dry state as it’s the most rust free crx I’ve ever worked on or seen in person. The paint looks pretty good for it’s age but does show some sun wear in some spots. For a 21 year old car it looks gorgeous. Its good looking and rust free but not mint. You don’t have to always be concerned about ruining the perfect paint job in parking lots, but it still looks real good. I built the cowl hood from the stock hood to clear a k24 I planned to put in. It should also clear itbs, all motor intakes, etc. I will re-sand it, paint it and get it perfect before I sell the car.
Engine/Drivetrain: The K20a2 engine/trans are out of a 2003 Rsx type s that was rear ended and totaled. It’s mounted with hasport mounts that were welded on. I removed the rear crossmember modified it for transmission clearance, welded the rear mount in place and strengthened the whole thing up. It starts up instantly, doesn’t smoke, runs like a clock, makes no bad noises, and pulls HARD. I recently changed the oil on the trans with Honda Manual Fluid right from the dealer. It shifts perfectly at all rpms and never grinds. It feels like your shifting a video game simulator it’s so perfect. The engine itself is bone stock and has never been modified. The lower then stock final drive spins the stock intermediate shaft and driveshaft shop stage 0 driver axle and Rsx base passenger axle. The whole setup feels and works great
Fuel System: Walbro 255 in tank pump to steel braided lines in the engine bay. Line runs first to in-line high flow filter, to hybrid racing rail with hybrid fuel pressure gauge, after that it goes to the fuel pressure regulator, then back out to the steel hard return line. It works flawlessly with 52 psi of pressure at idle and no leaks.
Suspension/Brakes Wheels/Tires: It sits firmly on skunk2 coilovers and rolls on lime green Rota gt3’s that spin through brand new front wheel bearings. Stopping power is provided by brand new rotors and pads in front and brand new drum pads in the rear. It has almost brand new tires that provide extreme grip at all speeds in dry or wet weather conditions. I have it sitting pretty low but definitely not slammed. It looks good and handles like a race car but I wouldn’t go any lower on a street car (although allot of people do).
Exhaust/Intake: Skunk2 replica header to all 3” mandrel piping and summit racing FlowMaster muffler (silent at idle, quiet cruising but screams in vtec). 3” Cold air intake with brand new filter.
Interior: Complete stock interior in good condition complimented by a set of summit racing mechanical gauges in the center console (water temp, volt meter, and oil pressure). The stock tach reads correctly along with the speedometer that’s spun by the stock cable and vss that fit into the rsx’s transmission. I have a deep dish 320mm wheel in there now but I have the stock wheel as well. The stock seats have the usual tears in them, but I will include a set of pretty nice si seats.
Engine Management/Wiring: A stock Prb rsx ecu manages the engine with a ktuned immobilizer disabler that allows it to run. The rsx engine harness along with the dx chassis harness are stock with the exception of a hybrid-racing conversion harness with an integrated secondary o2 sensor plug that is unhooked up. It’s currently throwing the secondary o2 code and nothing else (I will include the secondary o2 in the sale).
Bad: It has a cracked windshield and the cowl hood needs re-sanding and painting which I will do before I sell the car. Also as mentioned earlier the lack of a secondary o2 sensor is throwing the code, but I’ll include one with the sale. For those who don’t know; the only purpose of the secondary o2 is for the ecu to discern if the cat is functioning for inspection purposes. It does not control in anyway how the car runs. Also the seats are torn as shown in the pics but I will include a set of si seats in pretty nice condition.
The car feels like a damn Ferrari. The close ratio gear box and lower final drive are perfect for this car and feel out of a race car. The skunk2 coilovers and fat tires make it handle like it’s on rails and the perfectly balanced wheels make it feel stable at all speeds. It’s an all around great well-built car. I built it ground up from a shell, it’s a mini race car for the street that isn’t too loud and still can get 35 mpg. I think I’m a fool for selling this one of kind dime piece but I need money for college. This car is FAST. It pulls all the way up to 8200 rpm and blows through the gears. That little 2 liter has guts. It scares my dad who used to race a 427 vette. If you want the ultimate Honda, this is for you. It’s cool calm and chill at low rpms, cruises almost silently and gets gas miser mileage. But bring it up past 5800 rpm and its as if zeus struck it with a lightning bolt. It gets really nutty in vtec.
I put over $10,000 total into this car and hundreds of man hours filled with blood sweat and tears. I want $7200 because it’s a complete car. First of all, swap aside this is one of the cleanest crx’s I ever seen in person. Its rust free with the original paint and has never been in an accident. The interior is clean and complete. Now add Honda’s best engine swap, the suspension, wheels tires, top of the line k-swap parts with all the big names and the fact that it runs like a champ with NO ISSUES I know it’s worth what I’m asking. I’m in no hurry to sell and will not entertain lowballers. No one drives it unless they have all 7g’s in hand. I will consider trades.
201-496-0316
EDIT PLEASE READ:
I've been getting some complaints about the fact that the fan doesn't automatically switch on (even though it runs at 150-170 in all conditions with no need for a fan), there's no ac, etc, real petty, negligible, insignificant and easy to modify factors of the vehicle that should not even remotely come close to being deal breakers.
This needs to be addressed:
How many running clear titled K20 crx's are out there? How many of those have the original paint? How many of those have no rust? Complete un gutted interiors? Clean running non smoking engines that burn no oil? Smooth shifting mint 6-speed transmissions?
Now think about how many k20 crx's are bondo'd to **** with rattle can paint jobs? Completely gutted out? Hack wired with with basket case ruined harnesses? Salvage titles? Incorrectly installed mounts? Accident records?
This is a one of a kind car. It is extremely rare and you all know that. How many rust free crx's with the original paint are left? How many of those have k20a swaps? Now how many of those run properly?
I built this car right and you won't find another like it, especially at this price. If you want the fan to come on automatically you can wire that very easily. Would you rather do that, or try to correct hacked up wiring? How bout fixing a bondo'd rusted body or slowly piecing together a decent interior? Come on, enough of this. You want a K20a2 Crx done right? Buy this. If you don't please stop wasting my time.
PRICE DROP
$5800obo without Rotas
$6200 with
Body/Paint: I tore down the car to a bare shell, cut out what very minor rust it had, and coated all metal in the remote vicinity of any rust with Rust Bullet (the best anti-rust product on the market). I also coated the bottoms of the rocker panels. I then filled in the small holes with bondo, sanded it down in stages. I then applied high build primer, sanded that with 600 grit and painted it with color match spray. It came out almost perfectly. The rest of the car has the original paint with the exception of the custom cowl hood. This car will never rust again, not the way I did it, it’s solid as a rock. The chassis itself had no rust, this car was from a dry state as it’s the most rust free crx I’ve ever worked on or seen in person. The paint looks pretty good for it’s age but does show some sun wear in some spots. For a 21 year old car it looks gorgeous. Its good looking and rust free but not mint. You don’t have to always be concerned about ruining the perfect paint job in parking lots, but it still looks real good. I built the cowl hood from the stock hood to clear a k24 I planned to put in. It should also clear itbs, all motor intakes, etc. I will re-sand it, paint it and get it perfect before I sell the car.
Engine/Drivetrain: The K20a2 engine/trans are out of a 2003 Rsx type s that was rear ended and totaled. It’s mounted with hasport mounts that were welded on. I removed the rear crossmember modified it for transmission clearance, welded the rear mount in place and strengthened the whole thing up. It starts up instantly, doesn’t smoke, runs like a clock, makes no bad noises, and pulls HARD. I recently changed the oil on the trans with Honda Manual Fluid right from the dealer. It shifts perfectly at all rpms and never grinds. It feels like your shifting a video game simulator it’s so perfect. The engine itself is bone stock and has never been modified. The lower then stock final drive spins the stock intermediate shaft and driveshaft shop stage 0 driver axle and Rsx base passenger axle. The whole setup feels and works great
Fuel System: Walbro 255 in tank pump to steel braided lines in the engine bay. Line runs first to in-line high flow filter, to hybrid racing rail with hybrid fuel pressure gauge, after that it goes to the fuel pressure regulator, then back out to the steel hard return line. It works flawlessly with 52 psi of pressure at idle and no leaks.
Suspension/Brakes Wheels/Tires: It sits firmly on skunk2 coilovers and rolls on lime green Rota gt3’s that spin through brand new front wheel bearings. Stopping power is provided by brand new rotors and pads in front and brand new drum pads in the rear. It has almost brand new tires that provide extreme grip at all speeds in dry or wet weather conditions. I have it sitting pretty low but definitely not slammed. It looks good and handles like a race car but I wouldn’t go any lower on a street car (although allot of people do).
Exhaust/Intake: Skunk2 replica header to all 3” mandrel piping and summit racing FlowMaster muffler (silent at idle, quiet cruising but screams in vtec). 3” Cold air intake with brand new filter.
Interior: Complete stock interior in good condition complimented by a set of summit racing mechanical gauges in the center console (water temp, volt meter, and oil pressure). The stock tach reads correctly along with the speedometer that’s spun by the stock cable and vss that fit into the rsx’s transmission. I have a deep dish 320mm wheel in there now but I have the stock wheel as well. The stock seats have the usual tears in them, but I will include a set of pretty nice si seats.
Engine Management/Wiring: A stock Prb rsx ecu manages the engine with a ktuned immobilizer disabler that allows it to run. The rsx engine harness along with the dx chassis harness are stock with the exception of a hybrid-racing conversion harness with an integrated secondary o2 sensor plug that is unhooked up. It’s currently throwing the secondary o2 code and nothing else (I will include the secondary o2 in the sale).
Bad: It has a cracked windshield and the cowl hood needs re-sanding and painting which I will do before I sell the car. Also as mentioned earlier the lack of a secondary o2 sensor is throwing the code, but I’ll include one with the sale. For those who don’t know; the only purpose of the secondary o2 is for the ecu to discern if the cat is functioning for inspection purposes. It does not control in anyway how the car runs. Also the seats are torn as shown in the pics but I will include a set of si seats in pretty nice condition.
The car feels like a damn Ferrari. The close ratio gear box and lower final drive are perfect for this car and feel out of a race car. The skunk2 coilovers and fat tires make it handle like it’s on rails and the perfectly balanced wheels make it feel stable at all speeds. It’s an all around great well-built car. I built it ground up from a shell, it’s a mini race car for the street that isn’t too loud and still can get 35 mpg. I think I’m a fool for selling this one of kind dime piece but I need money for college. This car is FAST. It pulls all the way up to 8200 rpm and blows through the gears. That little 2 liter has guts. It scares my dad who used to race a 427 vette. If you want the ultimate Honda, this is for you. It’s cool calm and chill at low rpms, cruises almost silently and gets gas miser mileage. But bring it up past 5800 rpm and its as if zeus struck it with a lightning bolt. It gets really nutty in vtec.
I put over $10,000 total into this car and hundreds of man hours filled with blood sweat and tears. I want $7200 because it’s a complete car. First of all, swap aside this is one of the cleanest crx’s I ever seen in person. Its rust free with the original paint and has never been in an accident. The interior is clean and complete. Now add Honda’s best engine swap, the suspension, wheels tires, top of the line k-swap parts with all the big names and the fact that it runs like a champ with NO ISSUES I know it’s worth what I’m asking. I’m in no hurry to sell and will not entertain lowballers. No one drives it unless they have all 7g’s in hand. I will consider trades.
201-496-0316
EDIT PLEASE READ:
I've been getting some complaints about the fact that the fan doesn't automatically switch on (even though it runs at 150-170 in all conditions with no need for a fan), there's no ac, etc, real petty, negligible, insignificant and easy to modify factors of the vehicle that should not even remotely come close to being deal breakers.
This needs to be addressed:
How many running clear titled K20 crx's are out there? How many of those have the original paint? How many of those have no rust? Complete un gutted interiors? Clean running non smoking engines that burn no oil? Smooth shifting mint 6-speed transmissions?
Now think about how many k20 crx's are bondo'd to **** with rattle can paint jobs? Completely gutted out? Hack wired with with basket case ruined harnesses? Salvage titles? Incorrectly installed mounts? Accident records?
This is a one of a kind car. It is extremely rare and you all know that. How many rust free crx's with the original paint are left? How many of those have k20a swaps? Now how many of those run properly?
I built this car right and you won't find another like it, especially at this price. If you want the fan to come on automatically you can wire that very easily. Would you rather do that, or try to correct hacked up wiring? How bout fixing a bondo'd rusted body or slowly piecing together a decent interior? Come on, enough of this. You want a K20a2 Crx done right? Buy this. If you don't please stop wasting my time.
Last edited by f20cmx5; Aug 28, 2011 at 12:22 PM. Reason: PRICE DROP
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
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From: New Jersey
Re: K20a2 Crx Cowl Hood Original Paint No Rust Coilovers Complete Runs Strong
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Re: K20a2 Crx Cowl Hood Original Paint No Rust Coilovers Complete Runs Strong
EDIT PLEASE READ:
I've been getting some complaints about the fact that the fan doesn't automatically switch on (even though it runs at 150-170 in all conditions with no need for a fan), there's no ac, etc, real petty, negligible, insignificant and easy to modify factors of the vehicle that should not even remotely come close to being deal breakers.
This needs to be addressed:
How many running clear titled K20 crx's are out there? How many of those have the original paint? How many of those have no rust? Complete un gutted interiors? Clean running non smoking engines that burn no oil? Smooth shifting mint 6-speed transmissions?
Now think about how many k20 crx's are bondo'd to **** with rattle can paint jobs? Completely gutted out? Hack wired with with basket case ruined harnesses? Salvage titles? Incorrectly installed mounts? Accident records?
This is a one of a kind car. It is extremely rare and you all know that. How many rust free crx's with the original paint are left? How many of those have k20a swaps? Now how many of those run properly?
I built this car right and you won't find another like it, especially at this price. If you want the fan to come on automatically you can wire that very easily. Would you rather do that, or try to correct hacked up wiring? How bout fixing a bondo'd rusted body or slowly piecing together a decent interior? Come on, enough of this. You want a K20a2 Crx done right? Buy this. If you don't please stop wasting my time.
I've been getting some complaints about the fact that the fan doesn't automatically switch on (even though it runs at 150-170 in all conditions with no need for a fan), there's no ac, etc, real petty, negligible, insignificant and easy to modify factors of the vehicle that should not even remotely come close to being deal breakers.
This needs to be addressed:
How many running clear titled K20 crx's are out there? How many of those have the original paint? How many of those have no rust? Complete un gutted interiors? Clean running non smoking engines that burn no oil? Smooth shifting mint 6-speed transmissions?
Now think about how many k20 crx's are bondo'd to **** with rattle can paint jobs? Completely gutted out? Hack wired with with basket case ruined harnesses? Salvage titles? Incorrectly installed mounts? Accident records?
This is a one of a kind car. It is extremely rare and you all know that. How many rust free crx's with the original paint are left? How many of those have k20a swaps? Now how many of those run properly?
I built this car right and you won't find another like it, especially at this price. If you want the fan to come on automatically you can wire that very easily. Would you rather do that, or try to correct hacked up wiring? How bout fixing a bondo'd rusted body or slowly piecing together a decent interior? Come on, enough of this. You want a K20a2 Crx done right? Buy this. If you don't please stop wasting my time.