Need help from a EF genius please!!
Alright so i did dpfi to mpfi to obd1 and now i have a solid check engine light and cant get it to start, and one time when i tried to start it the engine made a boom sound like there was a small explosion inside the engine how do i fix this??
TDC and CYL wires reversed at distributor? Should be the white and white/blue wires provided you used the TD02U D16A6 Si distributor.
its always bad when people try to jump to the end, especially when they dont know what they are doing. if your not very good with wiring, you should have done a DPFI to MPFI conversion first. and then to obd1. but like its already been stated, check the distributor wiring. also make sure you use a jumper at the 2 prong plug. if you get a CEL the light will stay solid until you ground the SCS (2 prong jumper).
he can't use the td02u dizzy on an obd1 car. o/p if you are you need to get an obd1 dizzy. what do you mean soild cel? like when you jump the jumper wires does it just stay solid? or is it just on?
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ok, so then you need to jump the small 2 prong plug located on the lower section of your glove box/passenger kick panel. you can use a paper clip, once you do this your check engine light symbol on the gauge cluster to flash. once it flashes count the number of flashes and that is your CEL.
Alright so I'm going into more detail. I'm using a d16a6 block with a z6 head and intake with a y8 dizzy converted to obd1. At one point I only had codes 7 and 21. I haven't hooked up vtec yet just because this swap has been giving me to much headaches.. when I try to crank it for a couple seconds it sounds like its not getting spark but I checked and it is and when I stop cranking it make a boom noise. My compression is 225 210 215 215 I've checked all grounds and they are good I have gotten rid of the solid CEL and now its back on... I can hear my fuel pump prime.. any chances of it being just a bad injector??
what kinda of jumper harness are you using? some jumper harnesses come with a scs wire you can jump. once you jump it you check engine light should flash and then you can pulll the code. do you have the spark plug wires in the right order.
1-3-4-2
| 3
|1 4 dizzy
| 2
engine
4-3-2-1
1-3-4-2
| 3
|1 4 dizzy
| 2
engine
4-3-2-1
freaking idiots. no you do not need an obd1 specific distributor. your Y8 distributor is fine. an obd2a distributor (96-98) will work fine, its essentially the same as an obd1 but with a single connector instead of 2.
a TD80 will acutally work better for this set up than a TD42 because the bolt locations will match up. if you go with a TD42 you will need to do some mods to the mounting tabs.
a TD80 will acutally work better for this set up than a TD42 because the bolt locations will match up. if you go with a TD42 you will need to do some mods to the mounting tabs.
Alright so I'm going into more detail. I'm using a d16a6 block with a z6 head and intake with a y8 dizzy converted to obd1. At one point I only had codes 7 and 21. I haven't hooked up vtec yet just because this swap has been giving me to much headaches.. when I try to crank it for a couple seconds it sounds like its not getting spark but I checked and it is and when I stop cranking it make a boom noise. My compression is 225 210 215 215 I've checked all grounds and they are good I have gotten rid of the solid CEL and now its back on... I can hear my fuel pump prime.. any chances of it being just a bad injector??
verify your distributor wiring... get a test lead to go from the dizzy plug, to the ecu. make sure every wire is the proper one. i had to do it, find the pinout for your distributor and for either obd0 or obd1 ecu (depending on if you decide to verify with or without the jumper harness)
what injectors are you running? d16z6 are obd1, so you don't need an injector resistor box.
you can run a y8 distributor. as long as you run an obd1 ecu. you just cannot run an obd1 and obd2 distributor with an obd0 ecu.
your distributor is fine as long as its in good working condition.
your distributor is fine as long as its in good working condition.
freaking idiots. no you do not need an obd1 specific distributor. your Y8 distributor is fine. an obd2a distributor (96-98) will work fine, its essentially the same as an obd1 but with a single connector instead of 2.
a TD80 will acutally work better for this set up than a TD42 because the bolt locations will match up. if you go with a TD42 you will need to do some mods to the mounting tabs.
a TD80 will acutally work better for this set up than a TD42 because the bolt locations will match up. if you go with a TD42 you will need to do some mods to the mounting tabs.


