Hey guys, another track readying question for you. I'm looking to make some brake ducts for my car but I was wondering if there are any reasonably priced bumper inlets made for the EK bumper to save me some time. Also if anyone knows if a DC2 intake upper (box and tube) fit into a 2000 Si that would be awesome.

Thanks again

 

Track readying for what?
if you are beinging you wont need any ducting for your brakes.

 

when I first started I needed ducts, a couple laps in, lots of traffic and not nearly enough point by'es = crappy pedal.

I use large funnels hooked up to shop vac tubing

 

There are plenty of threads on brake ducts should you need to use them.
The good old fashioned search of this forum will bring them up.

 

I am as well looking for suitable ducts, and the best I will most likely end up with are the fog light housings on the late EK civics. With those you have a proper inlet, and good mounting.

More tricky is how the tube shall go afterwards..

 

After searching, and not coming up with the answer to my question, I decided to start this thread. My real intention is to get an Integra DC2 intake and run a ram-air system from a brake duct in the front right side of the car straight into the DC2 intake. I don't want to order a duct that is going to be a pain in the butt to fit which is why I wanted to know if there are any recommended ducts designed for my bumper to ensure decent fitment.

 

http://htarchive.org/showthread.php?t=1808779

http://www.ht-archive.com/showthread.php?t=1857706

Brake ducts.
http://www.weaksauceparts.com/store/...at=2966&page=1

There used to be some good pics up before they revamped the board.

There should be enough out there to give some good ideas of what you can do and what you should stay away from.
I dont see a need for brake ducts on my car... my brakes dont get that damn hot.

Search the brakes forum too guys.
If you arent seeing ready made kits thats because there arent any out there.
Brake ducts have always been a do it yourself, and see what works for you kind of deal.
Trial and error.

 

Just make your own

We picked up a set of ducts from RacerPartsWholesale, cut the bumper and brought the ducts back to towards the general area of the brakes. Made a huge difference in our brake temperatures. We used the other duct to feed our turbo and help direct air to our oil cooler setup.






Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

Thanks man.
The pics are probably what they needed to see.
General ideas sprout more vision and innovation.

 

Thanks for the pictures, that's what I was looking for.

 

These cars are so light are you guys really cooking brake fluid?

 

With 300+whp most definitely.

 

Need to push that thread.

Very helpful pics, doint the same right now. Did you make a hole to fix the tubee at the lca? And do the tires scrub on full lock?

 

I don't get why people need brake ducting. Just get a pad that can handle more heat?

I left foot brake like crazy in a rally and get my rotors glowing red hot and never have any fade issues.

But a question I have to the pictures posted. I can understand it's probably to lighten the car, but why cut out the side of your frame rail? Pretty much you tap anything and your front end is going to crumble like a cookie. I guess you don't care about negating your crash structure in front of the car to absorb light impacts and instead would rather let the rest of the car do it. Is that track car caged?

 

For me personally it is a precautionary measure. I will run 20 lap races next year, and I am happy if I dont need to think about the heat of my brakes at any point in the race.
If I can avoid issues I try to do so..

 

That does not mean you will not overheat your fluid or pads. I would think about some kind of ducting.


remember some of us race in hot climates that dont work in our favor. I have had different pads on the ITA car and now i think i may have a solutions but just putting a pad that can handle the heat is not gonna make it stop or go away. proper fluid and ducting makes a big difference.

Also remember that when making brake ducting you want the air to go to the center of the rotor not on the inside surface.

 

And exactly thats the reason why I ask those questions, because I am in the progress of creating the ductings, sorry if that wasnt understandable.

Regarding where the air has to go I agree with you, but with a 15inch wheel its quite hard to achieve that without some rubbing love between the tire and tube somewhere
I have seen the IPG ducts and they look gorgeous, but simply dont suit my EK and my brakes..

 

We are running 14in wheels on that car. At full steering lock the front of the tire rubs a little hose. But nothing crazy and the only time you really go full lock at a race track is when you park the car.

 

duct also cool the balljoint, hub, and everything around there.

after having 3 hub failures and risquiing my life totalling a car because of it, i'll definatly be running brake ducts next season...even though I never have brake fade.

thanks for the pics, very inspiring.

 

On my setup I run 225/45/15 R888s on 15x8 rims full lock to lock I don't have any rubbing at all.

 

Come run at Sebring in August and see how your brakes hold up or your car for that matter.

 

the way you have yours routed it looks like they may hang a little low. we have ours mounted along the frame so when you turn the wheel at full lock it rubs a little.

 

Just don't use your brakes and they won't get hot. And what about enduro races when is 3 , 6, 12 or 25 hours. 20 laps is nothing. And here in Kali summer temps go to 110 ambient in the shade with a fan and never had problems.

 

Yeah they were a little on the low side so we re-routed them to be flat with the LCA which worked out better. We never had them catch anything, but figured if I did have an off road excursion they'd be the first thing to go

 

are you running the stock brake set up or some kind of big brake kit.