2002 Civic LX 4dr

D17A1 auto w/PS and AC

simple question: is it possible to remove/install the complete motor/transmission assembly out the top? Reason I ask is because it looks like a really tight fit, and there is an AC line that runs over the motor. I would much prefer to pull it from up top rather than trying to drop it out the bottom along with the sub frame.

Any tips or tricks to doing it this way? Thanks in advance.

 

Hmm.... with the power steering removed and out of the way, the alternator removed, and the A/C compressor removed and lines pulled to the side, it looks like you might be able to. . . but don't quote me on that.

 

HAve fun

 

Yes, it is possible... BUT, it will take you an extreme amount of time removing all accessories, the manifolds, and even then you may have other components to remove.

Its only 4 bolts holding the subframe to the car, two bolts holding the lower control arms to that, 2 engine mount bolts to remove from the chassis itself and the engine along with the subframe pulls right out.

 

In the FAQ's under the auto to manual conversion, that shows them pulling the motor out the top. He did have to remove a bunch of stuff to do so though.

 

Not too bad. You do have to pull the accessories and the crank gear off the drivers side. I pulled mine minus the manual transmission out the top. So it should be doable. I would pull the engine harness attached instead of unhooking all the sensors.

 

I have been thinking about the same way to pull out from the top and decided to get started this week.
I have started removing the power steering pump, alternator and engine wiring harness. Then I removed the hood to give me more room. I marked the hinge location for easy alignment when I put it back.
Tomorrow, I will remove the a/c compressor from the bracket and move it to the side.
Thursday, I'll start working on removing the cv axles. I will take lots of pictures for reference.
Wish me luck....!

 

Its actually a hell of a lot easier to pull it out of the top then the bottom. and you don't have to line up the subframe I have done almost every way possible with a 7thgen and I would never go out the bottom again way too much work!!! top is so much easier!!!

 

Can't pull the engine out without disconnecting wiring and accessories.

He is pulling out the engine and transmission so the wiring harness, exhaust, tranny cables, clutch slave, engine/tranny supports, accelerator cables, cv axles, tie rod ends, ball joint, power steering, alternator and ac compressor have to come out anyway.

 

ac does not have to come out just the 4 bolts that hold it to the block have to be removed same with power steering just un-bolt it and push it over to the side the tie rod ends do not have to be removed or even unbolted.

also if this were say a clutch change there is a way to do it where you don't even have to remove the transmission

 

i tried but could not do it. i could not manage and i had the thermostat housing off. its ten times easier to do it from the bottom. unlike older civics their is no room in the engine bays which is one of the reasons i refuse to pay for a civic post-2000

 

That was what I meant to say, remove it from the mount and move it to the side.

 

if you want to pull the whole thing out un-bolt the header ac and powersteering remove the battery and battery tray unbolt shifter cables pop axles and lower ball joints on control arms to give you room to pop axles un bolt the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the trans on the back side undo the rest of the mounts lower the engine pull off the side trans mount off the chasis and yank out comes out like a breeze. reverse procedure to get engine back in.


now to do a clutch.

remove crank pulley and lower timing cover crank pulley side motor mount can't remember if you need to pull the aluminum piece that holds the alternator. remove front motor mount. remove starter and all the bolts holding the engine to the trans. undo heater/radiator hoses slide it over to the side and pull it up. now you can change the clutch and you don't have to worry about draining/filling the trans pulling axles or worrying about alignment. found this one out by accident cause had to pull a motor by hand at skatejosh's house with no engine hoist so we adapted the speedfoos uk method of pulling everything apart piece by piece and lifting it out by hand. but if you have a hoist it will take you like an hour and a half to 2 hours.

my record is 45 minutes to pull engine and trans from when the floor jack hit the frame with my buddy brett each of us taking one side. but mind you I was N/A no ac and I had over the years removed all unnecessary brackets and redid some of my wiring. plus I have an awesome impact and some nice speed wrench's


oh and there is no reason to pull the thermostat housing unless you are taking the head off

 

i totally misread the op's post. i thought he said if he could remove the trans from the top. i created a thread similar like 1 month ago. and i tried and it was impossible with the auto trans. the 5 speed could be done ive heard but auto was not possible.
then i wasted all my time and just took the subframe out a bit and it came out

 

I got my engine/tranny out from the top...whooooho. I will do oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front crank and cam seals, timing belt, clutch and tranny swap. I will post pics later.

 

Here is the engine/tranny pic and my replacement tranny. If you have questions, send me a PM.

 

Replaced rear main seal, front crank and camshaft seals, new timing belt, release brg, pilot brg, pressure plate and clutch. Oh, I removed the lip on the upper timing belt cover for easy replacement of sensor in the future.

 

OP here, I just confirmed that you can pull the motor/trans (D17A1, auto) out the top without dropping the subframe. It was a bitch to do, wish they would have not ran that damn AC line over the motor, but it is possible with patience. I pulled the motor/trans and reinstalled it all by myself so it was slow going... Hopefully I'll get it completely assembled in the next couple days and back on the road.

 

Nice load balancer. Where did you get that? Thanks.

 

harbor freight tools

 

Your engine looks really clean. How many miles are on the car?

 

about 187k mi. I pressure washed the motor before pulling it... the motor was pretty dirty before. after I had it out of the car I detailed it too with some simple green and a brush

 

does anyone know about how much coolant does this motor take? I want to make sure that I am not still losing coolant after changing the headgasket. I've added probably around 1.25 gallons so far.

 

I would just keep an eye on your overflow.

If you're loosing coolant, the radiator will suck coolant out of the tank to make up the difference.

 

damn it, I swear this car is cursed... brand new Aisin water pump made in japan and it has signs of coolant leaking from the weep hole. I am so tired of this car.