im a civic guy, but i work with a guy that has a stock 91 accord f22a4 5 speed that will not start that i have been trying to figure out for him. he drove it one day and parked it and then the next time he tried it would not start. it turns over but does not try to start
list of things known working: main relay, ecu fuse good, compression is great, timing is perfect, icm good, coil(internal) good, is getting spark, dizzy cap and button new, is getting fuel through the fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator good and tried many and the one off my working car, is getting strong spark, tested injectors with noid lights(he did) and working.
i took the plugs out they looked good, and turned the motor over and the pistons did not get wet (was trying a POOR way to see if it was getting fuel). the fuel pump is working but im not to up on the injector resistor box and not sure if it could be bad or not or dont know how to test it. its the only other thing i can think of. has compression, spark, timing right, but dont know what else to check on fuel. we dont have any fuel pressure gauges but it does have pressure for sure!

 

Give the fuel injectors 100% duty cycle manually. You should definately see fuel then.

 

and how is that done? hooking the power wires up to the battery?

 

Give the injector a path to power and ground with your own wires. Might be a good idea to put a teaspoon of oil down the cylinder and crank it over manually afterward since the fuel will wash the cylinder clean, assuming the injector sprays like it should.

 

Do not power up the injector directly!!!!!! If the test with noid light was ok leave the injectors alone.What are the chances that all four injectors are completely blocked?

 

No disrespect,but if you tested spark,compression,fuel and timing the engine should start.It may be running poor and not tuned but it should run.
The fuel has to be at the correct pressure.
If the things you mentioned above all good you should wet the spark plugs by cranking the motor over.

 

a clogged cat wouldnt cause this would it?
i need to find a fuel pressure gauge and test it for sure, and like i said, he did the noid light test and said they were working

 

This is my car and I tested the fuel pressure today and when cranking the engine over the pressure stayed at 38 psi. im also wondering about the injector resistor box? Any ideas would be very much appreciated
thanks

 

Like I said before if the pulse was checked with noid light,forget about the injector control circuit.To be more precise could you mesure the injector feed voltage?And just to make sure,is the spark tested at the coil output raised to at least 25KV?

 

how would you check the injector voltage and what should it be?and the spark?

 

with the key on you shold have a bettery voltage at the positive side of the injector(the other wire is the control).to test the spark you will need a spark tester ,preferably adjustable .you set it up for 25 Kv and have some one crank the engine over.

 

Wondering if someone one can help me out a few weeks ago my '94 accord ex began to act up like the starter was out so I replaced it with no luck, although when I jumped the starter wires she fired up. So I thought it was my ignition switch and starting it this way would not be a problem untill I got a hold of the money. Then two weeks later it's acting like the fuel pump is out but when getting towed home I dumped it in second and she strated up after about a 30 sec parked it and let it run for 15 mins. The next day nothing again. So I want to replace the fuel pump but I want to check the main relay fisrt so what clicks am I looking for?? Also before when it was working fine it would click when the CEL would go off but now it its not doing it. Did I just answer my own question??? If you read all of this Thank You very much and please help me.

 

What do you mean by "acting like a fuel pump out".Do you have a pressure or not when it doe't start?

 

Well there is no fuel pressure and when I go to turn the key I don't hear the fuel pump. Anyways I removed the main relay and it has cracked solder points so I am actually going to re-solder then in a minute.

 

 

Wow, re-soldered it and like magic I have fuel pressure and I can hear my fuel pump. Yay!!!!!! I owe a lot to EricTheCarGuy watching his video on youtube. In all the soldering equipment cost a total of around 15$, way better than the $60-$80 dollars for a new one. If some one is having crank/no start and no fuel pressure I suggest that you check you main relays circut board for cracked solder points.

 

Do you have an alarm on the car? If u do check the wiring, also check the wireing to the battery if its rusty id slap a new one on there..also the altenator check the wiring on that one too.

 

How many places did you post this?

To the OP....you have spark, not really sure how this was confirmed...have fuel at the rail "noid" ligt says the injectors are working, timing is perfect....and the car won't start. Suggest compressoin test.....then re-check the other tests.

 

lol. There's nothing wrong with doing this.

 

I'm agree ,I just don't see the reason for it.It's much more work for nothing, instead of just loosening the nut or connector at the fuel rail.

 

Knowing you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail doesn't tell you that the injector is allowing fuel into the cylinder. The OP suspected that there was no fuel getting into the cylinder. If a noid light illuminates and there is fuel pressure the next thing to do is make sure the injector actually flows.

I would also like to comment on plugged injectors. It is far more likely to have multiple plugged injectors rather than a single plugged injector because of the fact that each injector recieves fuel from the same source and through the same filter. If one gets clogged due to contamination the others are recieving that same contaminated fuel and are likely to clog as well. Except in the case of a single small piece of debris. That can obviously clog one injector only.

 

That's gotta be a hell of a clog!But for sure all the tests are good!!!When the debris is coming from fuel stream,it's usually the last injector on the rail that clogs up first because the debris is being pushed to the end of the rail thus restricting the fuel to that injector.But then the ECU will store a misfire and lean system codes.And the engine will run rough.It,s very rare that the car would stall and not restart in one shot.It's still a good way to test!

 

well tonight I pulled the fuel rail out and cranked the car over and I had fuel spray strongly out of all 4 injectors. makes no sense why I didnt have wet plugs tho but at least Im getting gas lol. Next question is how do you tes the ignition components? mainly Igniter? I took it to auto zone and they said it was ok but id like to test it myself. btw I also checked the compression on all4 cylinders and had 180 psi on all of them and also rechecked the timing and its good.

 

I doubt Autozone tested the operation of the ignitor. Can you describe their test?

 

Do you have a proper spark tester?The quickest way to test the spark is checking the spark at the coil (if it's external) if not - test at the wires.If you don't have a tester you could just remove the spark plug ,connect it to the the wire ,make sure you grounding the spark plug properly.The best spark tester is the adjustable one .Crank it up to 25KV and check the result.If you get the output there is no need to check the ignitor.