Hi I have a 91 accord se that is overheating only while the car is driving or after driving and i rev the engine. I have recently had the water pump and thermostat replaced (within the last 5 months) and have checked the thermostat just the other day. coolant levels are all good and have checked for bubbles in the radiator, and fans are all running. Recently blew out a radiator hose but had it replaced. Not sure if i forgot anything but any ideas would be appreciated, thanks in advance for any reason you think this may be happening.

 

Did you bleed the air out of the system? How did you check the t-stat?

 

Lol Well I'll just let you know now I'm not very mechanically inclined. But my Dad has been helping me we ran the car with the cap off and squeesed the hoses to flush the air out, and he put the thermostat in a pan on the stove to see if it opened up when heated.

 

im haveing the same probalem with a 1991 acura legend just replaced the raidiator (Brand New ) and it is still over heating after driveing for a moment the top hoses expand and get very tight im thinking its air if so how do i bleed it ?

 

First of all, turn the heater ****/dial on the dash inside the car all the way to red(opposite of blue).

Follow the lower radiator hose. It will go toward the back of the engine. At the top of that housing, there is a bolt that has a nozzle on the top of it. Start the car and open that bolt/valveup. It should shoot out coolant along with air, when it starts shooting only coolant close it.

 

Well crap I may have a problem with that the air in the car is not working. after i took it in to have the fans fixed because they were not running the mechanic had to tap the radiator fan into the ignition so that it would turn on when i turn the ignition on, and the other fan is wired into the battery with a switch and after that the air has stoped working. will that affect bleading out the air?

 

That mechanic just ****ed up your wiring. Tell him to put it back together and actually bleed the air out for a change. That should fix your problems.

I've found that simply just cutting off the jiggle valve from the thermostat makes bleeding almost fckup-proof. And having no jiggle valve doesn't do anything bad for the cooling system. What tends to happen is that the jiggle valve gets pushed closed by the air and doesn't allow the air to escape the system. Lastly the jiggle valve or lackthereof should be facing towards the sky when you put the thermostat in the car. If it's not, then the air will have a problem escaping.