89 civic dpfi to mpfi plus mini me HELP!
Thanks for looking, I have a non si 89 civic hatch. I'm using the stock block d15b1 and i have put a z6 sohc vtec ,head y8 head gasket, si harness, p28 ecu. Here is the problem i have some plug issues one of them is at the fuse box see pic. Not sure what it is for. And the other pic is of the driver side fire wall plug not matchin up. What should i do with it. Thanks for the help. PS i'm a new guy so i hope i didn't mess up.
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You have to use your dual point engine harness and then change stuff accordingly.. Probably takes about an hour to do the wiring.
you need to either convert/modify your stock harness to work with the motor. YOU WILL NOT USE THE SI HARNESS (except for the injector, resistor box and distributor plugs). so you will only need it for spare parts. there is info in the FAQ's.
if you are not electrically incline i can build you a plug n play harness, check my sig below for pics of my work.
if you are not electrically incline i can build you a plug n play harness, check my sig below for pics of my work.
when doing DPFI-MPFI, use the harness that came with your car. It's much easier to mate that harness to the engine and modify/extend a few plugs here and there, instead of figuring out how to use the Si harness properly.
Your DPFI harness has 2 injectors, you need 4 to work with the new motor.
Cut off the primary and secondary injector plugs, keep note of the colors the wires are (blk/yel on both, red on one, yellow on one)
solder the blk/yel wires together, and solder on a length of wire to that (about 2 feet will give you plenty of room to work with)
set that wire aside
solder one of the mpfi injector plugs to the red wire. mpfi plug has 2 colors, either red/blk or blk/yel, depending on if you're using obd0 or obd1 injectors.
solder another plug to the yellow wire
solder lengths of wire to the remaining 2 injector plugs. make sure they reach the injectors.
read that link a few times over, it'll make sense eventually. it makes more sense once you start doing it.
if you're using obd1 injectors from the Z6 intake manifold, you don't need the injector resistor box (green plug on drivers side shock tower).
the red/blk or blk/yel wires can be all soldered together, doesn't matter how, just as long as it's a good connection between all of them.
on the white plug at the ecu, there should be 2 red wires and 2 yellow wires. these are your injector wires. starting from the first yellow wire, they go, injector 1, 2, 3, 4. match them up to your injectors.
dizzy-4-3-2-1-belt
that's the numbering on the motor for injectors and cylinders.
hope that helps a little bit. mpfi swap isn't so bad, just lots of preparation.
distributor wiring is pretty easy too, just adding 2 wires to it and moving a bunch of wires around. i just got done a ton of wiring on my car so if you need help i'll help.
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if your going to go obd1 then you need to do the obd1 conversion as well. which consists of:
obd1 ecu (p28)
4-wire o2 sensor
obd1 distributor
ecu jumper as well
obd1 ecu (p28)
4-wire o2 sensor
obd1 distributor
ecu jumper as well
well... for now, you could see if your A6 dizzy bolts up, and then just not hook up vtec while you wait for your obd0-obd1 jumper harness that you should order ASAP.
ok got the stock harnees in the car now. I also went and got a jumper harness. I will be using the intake off of the z6 95 civic aslo. Do i need to use the inj res on the the 11.6 ohm inj's. I was told no. From what i can tell plug A inj1 pin 1, inj2 pin 3, inj3 pin5, inj4 pin7. Now with out the risitor box i guess all inj's return back to ecu and go on plug a pin15. So am i on the right track. Thank you guys so much. here is the link for the diagrahm im using.
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...iteup-49557%2F
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...iteup-49557%2F
if you use the stock z6 injectors then you can splice all the power wires from the injectors together. if you use 88-91 peak/hold injectors (obd0) then you will need to wire in the resistor box like in the link.
Just hook all of them to the main relay not the ris box. Right
you're doing a lot better than some of the other "noobs"
if you're using the z6 intake manifold, you'll notice a sensor on the top of the throttle body. that's your map sensor. your old one is mounted to the firewall.
don't forget to switch the outside pins at the throttle position sensor!!! It's the sensor on the back of the throttle body.
if you're using the z6 intake manifold, you'll notice a sensor on the top of the throttle body. that's your map sensor. your old one is mounted to the firewall.
don't forget to switch the outside pins at the throttle position sensor!!! It's the sensor on the back of the throttle body.
just curious, why dont you like to solder connections, what do you do then when you have to splice wires together, im not talking about moving some wires around and connecting them together, i know how to de and re pin.
that is why all my harnesses get brand spanking new wire, terminals and boots. do it right the first time. thats my thing.
i ve done dpfi to mpfi swaps and dpfi harness to mpfi harness swaps. in my opinion i like the mpfi harness swap better because less cutting into exsisting harness. but dpfi conversion to mpfi is less work and cheaper.
Using that logic you must have replaced every 20 year old wire in your car?
And no I do not use butt connectors, I use all brand new oem terminals. Butt connectors do not enter my garage. Soldering looks ugly to me and bulky to, as compare to a brand new wire with new terminals on the ends.



Parts. stock harness, jumper, p28, z6 sohc vtec head, z6 intake with injectors, stock 89 std hatch d15b1. I hope this will work.... What a mess...
