Hey all,

My apologies for the lengthy post, but here goes.

A couple weeks ago on the way to work (highway), I noticed my temperature reading was up about 10 degrees past normal (usually it reads 84C-88C). I have a little scanner that plugs into the OBD port to get this info, and it was reading 95C, which it doesn't ever show unless in bumper to bumper traffic.

I turned the heat on and it dropped back down to normal. I got to work, idled a bit with the heat off, sure enough it climbed again past 95C (when the fan kicks on), to about 102C, and the temp needle started to climb to the half way point.

I turn off the car, check the overflow reservoir, its empty. I see coolant all over the rad and the ground. Rad (at least) is gone.

Later, I added premix to both the rad and overflow... they took quite a bit. At the shop, they pressure tested the coolant system to confirm the rad was leaking all over the place. Got the rad changed out, with new upper + lower hoses, and a new tstat.

All was well. 5 Days later I notice overflow reservoir is dry again... OK, so maybe it was an air pocket. Topped it up again to the MAX line in the reservoir.

5 Days after that, the reservoir is low AGAIN, however, this time it's sitting half way between the MAX and MIN. So it lost some more, but not as much as the first time.

3 days later, it's down to the MIN line again. That's where it sits now.

I did notice that with the rad cap off, when I turn the car on in the morning, the coolant level in the rad rises slowly to the top of the rad neck, and after 30 - 45 sec starts to spill out slowly. I understand that there's supposed to be NO increase in pressure (no circulation of coolant) until the tstat opens (no way the car is warm in 30 secs), which worries me a bit (potential head gasket issue?).

Car has never had any issues prior, especially with randomly adding coolant (I always check it).

What are my options now? Get it pressure checked again?

Thanks for any input!

 

I would try to bleed the system first.

Basically try to incline the front of the car, turn the heater to hot (fan does not have to be on) top off the radiator, turn on the car and let run for up to 25 mins. It might blurp some coolant out. See if this helps.

Another thing when it runs hot can you hear the rad fan come on?

 

I haven't tried to burp the system on an incline yet, so I'll give that a shot. Keep the rad cap off though right?

Yes, the fan does click on as expected.

 

Yes cap off.

 

So I tried to bleed the system on an incline. There were a few little bubbles that came out as the fan kicked on each time... I idled it for a good 20 minutes and let the fan kick on about 5-6 times.

I'm not sure if this helped any yet, but I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days and report back if the coolant level continues to drop in the reservoir (hopefully not).

Thanks!

 

another thing, might not hurt to get a new cap.

 

I'm thinking headgasket.

 

The cap is brand spanking new, it went on with the new rad and upper/lower rad hoses.

That was my first thought too... but I hope not, lol.

Just for the hell of it, I'm going to get it this thing pressure tested at the shop again.

 

And things are looking worse... more bubbles appear when I rev to 2k... coolant started to go a weee bit milky.

Headgasket? Absolutely. lol

 

Yes, I hate to say it.

 

So the leak has temporarily stopped (added a sealer to the coolant)... but I'm on borrowed time and the head is coming off soon.

I'm looking to do the following since it will all be apart anyway:

-head gasket
-exhaust manifold gasket
-intake manifold gasket
-new head bolts (generally a good idea?)
-the head's going off to be machined and checked for cracks/leaks etc.

Timing belt and waterpump were changed about 50K ago, so I'm not terribly concerned with those. Should I be looking at anything else?

 

when you get the head resurfaced, you'll bump up compression a little, than try and first am after market head gasket that is thinner to bump it up more haha, easy power gain. why not get header while you're at it?

 

Nah.. just looking to bring it back to factory.. it's a DD that just needs to work. Besides, a new header won't help the torque monster that is the d16y7

 

The only problem is the too much compression is not good if you have a high mileage engine with original components.

 

Is your car boosted? The head on my civic, before the arp headstuds, would lift off the block under high boost. Causing the boost from the cylinders to leak into the coolant system. Which would eat the coolant. If I ran the car fine there would be no coolant issue.

So I would also say headgasket. Do you have any white smoke?

 

Nope, the car is bone stock. There's no smoke that I can see from the tail pipe at all.

 

Are OEM head gaskets for these motors MLS (multi layered steel)? If not, is going that route better for longevity?