Unresolved Del Sol bogging and idling Issues
Well, it's been a month and countless man hours still trying to solve this issue, so I figured I'd give the boards one more time before I give up.
1993 Honda Del Sol Si Vtec - Auto
Setup for turbo and then stripped to essentially stock
Aftermarket Parts (installed):
Cold Air Intake
Aftermarket Headers
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Exhaust
Sway Bar
Mechanical Issue:
After driving the car for 15-30 minutes, the car begins having issues idling. Upon acceleration from idle you hear a little bogging, and then it progresses as you drive the car to the point where waiting 10-15 seconds for a light to change means you have to hold the gas to the floor for 3-4 seconds beffore it starts kicking in. When you first start the car it idles around 1100. Over time I've seen it dip down to 200.
Parts replaced in my quest to fix the car:
Throttlebody and TPS
Spark plugs, wire, cap, rotor
Oil change and treatment
Fuel treament
Throttlebody and air control cleaned
Speed Sensor swapped
Vaccuum Hoses replaced and cleaned up
New Mapping Sensor
Other notable items checked:
ECU is stock and unchipped.
Injectors are stock
Took it to the Honda Dealership, which were the people who charged me a fortune to put a new throttle body on..they basically just put a new check engine light in, and took care of all the codes that were showing, which amazingly did not fix the issue.
---Any advice or help would be much appreciated.
Also as soon as I put it in park or nuetral and rev it seems fine, but as soon as I put back in drive and idle, it goes back to lackluster. Thanks in advance.
1993 Honda Del Sol Si Vtec - Auto
Setup for turbo and then stripped to essentially stock
Aftermarket Parts (installed):
Cold Air Intake
Aftermarket Headers
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Exhaust
Sway Bar
Mechanical Issue:
After driving the car for 15-30 minutes, the car begins having issues idling. Upon acceleration from idle you hear a little bogging, and then it progresses as you drive the car to the point where waiting 10-15 seconds for a light to change means you have to hold the gas to the floor for 3-4 seconds beffore it starts kicking in. When you first start the car it idles around 1100. Over time I've seen it dip down to 200.
Parts replaced in my quest to fix the car:
Throttlebody and TPS
Spark plugs, wire, cap, rotor
Oil change and treatment
Fuel treament
Throttlebody and air control cleaned
Speed Sensor swapped
Vaccuum Hoses replaced and cleaned up
New Mapping Sensor
Other notable items checked:
ECU is stock and unchipped.
Injectors are stock
Took it to the Honda Dealership, which were the people who charged me a fortune to put a new throttle body on..they basically just put a new check engine light in, and took care of all the codes that were showing, which amazingly did not fix the issue.
---Any advice or help would be much appreciated.
Also as soon as I put it in park or nuetral and rev it seems fine, but as soon as I put back in drive and idle, it goes back to lackluster. Thanks in advance.
Set the ignition timing to spec and adjust the idle speed as detailed in the service manual.
If you can't or won't do work yourself, then you are at the mercy of professional mechanics.
If you can't or won't do work yourself, then you are at the mercy of professional mechanics.
Also replace the PCV valve and check for a clogged PCV hose or breather hose.
Bump - question:
So I took it back to honda so they could hear the problem they didnt fix. They said they think it sounds like a common misfire..and they want to put Honda brand plugs, wires, cap, rotor on it because apparently the the ones I got from autozone which are three weeks old at best are causing the problem. Total cost - $310
there second theory is:
Theres a small leak somewhere in the intake, that is sucking in air. There not sure if thats actually causing the problems or not
Cost of repair - $450
They want to do the first thing first since its cheaper...
Is there actually any reason to use overpriced honda plug, wires, etc versus the new ones I put on... or am I just being taken for a ride.
Thanks in advance.
So I took it back to honda so they could hear the problem they didnt fix. They said they think it sounds like a common misfire..and they want to put Honda brand plugs, wires, cap, rotor on it because apparently the the ones I got from autozone which are three weeks old at best are causing the problem. Total cost - $310
there second theory is:
Theres a small leak somewhere in the intake, that is sucking in air. There not sure if thats actually causing the problems or not
Cost of repair - $450
They want to do the first thing first since its cheaper...
Is there actually any reason to use overpriced honda plug, wires, etc versus the new ones I put on... or am I just being taken for a ride.
Thanks in advance.
Save yourself a whole lot of money by doing the work yourself.
Start by installing the exact NGK spark plugs recommended in your owner's manual.
Then do the things I mentioned earlier if the problems persist.
Start by installing the exact NGK spark plugs recommended in your owner's manual.
Then do the things I mentioned earlier if the problems persist.
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