idle problem, not iacv or fitv... please help...
Hey guys, I have a 92 si. I've had it for about 8 months.
-d16z6. stock. may have been rebuilt at some point in its life, because it runs really strong and doesn't burn oil.

when I first got it, it had been treated like crap and idle was horrible.
I threw on a integra ls intake manifold w/ all it's original sensors etc,,,
new fuel filter, fuel system cleaners, etc,, got it idling perfect.
also has new ngk wires and plugs, new battery.
has idled perfect for a while. but in the last couple months it had issues of idling really really low and almost dieing.
I brought it to a friend mechanic. when we pulled the last spark plug wire out of the cylinder where it connects to the plug it didn't really make the engine bog down. Not like the other three did... so then we did a compression check. All cylinders checked out nicely. So then we put one of those blinking diodes onto the 4th injector. it blinked like it was supposed to.
I had my suspicion that it was the dizzy.
So we slapped on another dizzy and it quit idling bad. and the engine felt strong again.
so I've been driving it for about 3 months after the dizzy got switched and for the last month and a half the dam problem has returned.
I cleaned iacv and adjusted the fitv. no change.
I have noticed this:
In the morning on my way to work it idles fine. warms up at higher rpms, then stays steady at around 750 at a stop.
I only drive about 5 miles to get to work...
And it's obviously cooler outside in the morning by twenty degrees or so...
Then on the ride home from work starts up fine, like normal, idles higher at first like normal,, then at stop lights on way back home it bogs down almost to zero rpm, shakes my car, almost dies, and slowly dwindles upward closer to 500 rpm.
I get home and leave it in neutral and let it idle and it sounds like crap and idles at like under 500rpm.....
I took off my dizzy cap and noticed oil is getting inside the dizzy. I guess the dizzy seal is bad. Would that make it do this?
It's getting very frustrating, I've switched MAP sensor, cleaned iacv, tightened up fitv, new plugs, new wires, new fuel filter twice (once when I first got the car 8months ago, and a new one yesterday)
Is it possible this other used dizzy is just a bad one too?
Maybe I just need to quit getting "used" distributors and buy a new one?
I had assumed it was a dizzy problem from the very beginning because it only showed up at idle and then at higher rpm the engine runs normal.
Does this sound like a TPS going out?
I've never had a CEL for this... Well actually,,,, three weeks ago my vtec solenoid wire got disconnected, I had a CEL for three codes, two were Vtec related, and one was for the TPS.....
but once I connected the vtec wire and cleared the codes, I've never had another CEL...
is this what the TPS sensor does? bolt up in a way that cant be removed from the throttle body so you have to get another whole freaken throttle body, make idle horrible, not throw codes, and make life horrible? freaken TPS ???
also, I was looking at the engine harness and theres a yellow with red strip wire just sticking out from the harness. like it had been connected to something and now its not. I checked all through the harness and couldn't find a loose wire that it had been connected to. I have no idea what it goes to or if its even needed. I looked and the MAP sensor uses a yellow w/ red stripe. But wouldn't it be throwing a code or not working right?
if you unplug your MAP sensor the idle goes everywhere.
AHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
Someone with real knowledge please help me
-d16z6. stock. may have been rebuilt at some point in its life, because it runs really strong and doesn't burn oil.

when I first got it, it had been treated like crap and idle was horrible.
I threw on a integra ls intake manifold w/ all it's original sensors etc,,,
new fuel filter, fuel system cleaners, etc,, got it idling perfect.
also has new ngk wires and plugs, new battery.
has idled perfect for a while. but in the last couple months it had issues of idling really really low and almost dieing.
I brought it to a friend mechanic. when we pulled the last spark plug wire out of the cylinder where it connects to the plug it didn't really make the engine bog down. Not like the other three did... so then we did a compression check. All cylinders checked out nicely. So then we put one of those blinking diodes onto the 4th injector. it blinked like it was supposed to.
I had my suspicion that it was the dizzy.
So we slapped on another dizzy and it quit idling bad. and the engine felt strong again.
so I've been driving it for about 3 months after the dizzy got switched and for the last month and a half the dam problem has returned.
I cleaned iacv and adjusted the fitv. no change.
I have noticed this:
In the morning on my way to work it idles fine. warms up at higher rpms, then stays steady at around 750 at a stop.
I only drive about 5 miles to get to work...
And it's obviously cooler outside in the morning by twenty degrees or so...
Then on the ride home from work starts up fine, like normal, idles higher at first like normal,, then at stop lights on way back home it bogs down almost to zero rpm, shakes my car, almost dies, and slowly dwindles upward closer to 500 rpm.
I get home and leave it in neutral and let it idle and it sounds like crap and idles at like under 500rpm.....
I took off my dizzy cap and noticed oil is getting inside the dizzy. I guess the dizzy seal is bad. Would that make it do this?
It's getting very frustrating, I've switched MAP sensor, cleaned iacv, tightened up fitv, new plugs, new wires, new fuel filter twice (once when I first got the car 8months ago, and a new one yesterday)
Is it possible this other used dizzy is just a bad one too?
Maybe I just need to quit getting "used" distributors and buy a new one?
I had assumed it was a dizzy problem from the very beginning because it only showed up at idle and then at higher rpm the engine runs normal.
Does this sound like a TPS going out?
I've never had a CEL for this... Well actually,,,, three weeks ago my vtec solenoid wire got disconnected, I had a CEL for three codes, two were Vtec related, and one was for the TPS.....
but once I connected the vtec wire and cleared the codes, I've never had another CEL...
is this what the TPS sensor does? bolt up in a way that cant be removed from the throttle body so you have to get another whole freaken throttle body, make idle horrible, not throw codes, and make life horrible? freaken TPS ???
also, I was looking at the engine harness and theres a yellow with red strip wire just sticking out from the harness. like it had been connected to something and now its not. I checked all through the harness and couldn't find a loose wire that it had been connected to. I have no idea what it goes to or if its even needed. I looked and the MAP sensor uses a yellow w/ red stripe. But wouldn't it be throwing a code or not working right?
if you unplug your MAP sensor the idle goes everywhere.
AHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
Someone with real knowledge please help me
went through 3 dizzy's in a row, had to take a part from each to make 1 work from the coil, the little computer thing , and them sensors that are like 3 of them in there. Theses dizzy's are know from going bad, so to replace with a used one, you claimed it worked i wouldn't be shocked if it isn't starting to fail, and also oil inside could cause it missfire. there is spark in there when everything is coated in oil it is degrading ur parts. change ur seals or get a new one
can anyone else who reads this thread voice their opinion? or is everyone who reads it just agreeing with the first response to get a new distributor ?
You put an Integra LS (B18a/b) intake manifold on your D series?!?!
I had no idea this was even possible.
Anyways. The ignition system is about the only weak point on our cars. There is a good chance your used distributors are not workig 100%.
From what I've seen, bad TPS sensors usually dont give a fault, but they make the car fall on its face, just like if you abruptly removed your foot off the accelerator pedal. I dont think the TPS is your problem...
The fact that you pulled #4 wire and got NO change in idle has me thinking...Did # 4 plug look any different?
Are you using any coolant?
Whatever is causing #4 to act up, the idle drops and the ecu raises the idle via IACV...
Intermittently failing injector?
Id swap injectors with another cylinder and see if it follows it when the car acts up...
I had no idea this was even possible.
Anyways. The ignition system is about the only weak point on our cars. There is a good chance your used distributors are not workig 100%.
From what I've seen, bad TPS sensors usually dont give a fault, but they make the car fall on its face, just like if you abruptly removed your foot off the accelerator pedal. I dont think the TPS is your problem...
The fact that you pulled #4 wire and got NO change in idle has me thinking...Did # 4 plug look any different?
Are you using any coolant?
Whatever is causing #4 to act up, the idle drops and the ecu raises the idle via IACV...
Intermittently failing injector?
Id swap injectors with another cylinder and see if it follows it when the car acts up...
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Your used distributor has oil in it due to a bad internal seal. Buy a new OEM distributor and install it.
Replace the PCV valve.
Check the output voltages on the TPS.
Then go from there.
Replace the PCV valve.
Check the output voltages on the TPS.
Then go from there.
You put an Integra LS (B18a/b) intake manifold on your D series?!?!
I had no idea this was even possible.
Anyways. The ignition system is about the only weak point on our cars. There is a good chance your used distributors are not workig 100%.
From what I've seen, bad TPS sensors usually dont give a fault, but they make the car fall on its face, just like if you abruptly removed your foot off the accelerator pedal. I dont think the TPS is your problem...
The fact that you pulled #4 wire and got NO change in idle has me thinking...Did # 4 plug look any different?
Are you using any coolant?
Whatever is causing #4 to act up, the idle drops and the ecu raises the idle via IACV...
Intermittently failing injector?
Id swap injectors with another cylinder and see if it follows it when the car acts up...
I had no idea this was even possible.
Anyways. The ignition system is about the only weak point on our cars. There is a good chance your used distributors are not workig 100%.
From what I've seen, bad TPS sensors usually dont give a fault, but they make the car fall on its face, just like if you abruptly removed your foot off the accelerator pedal. I dont think the TPS is your problem...
The fact that you pulled #4 wire and got NO change in idle has me thinking...Did # 4 plug look any different?
Are you using any coolant?
Whatever is causing #4 to act up, the idle drops and the ecu raises the idle via IACV...
Intermittently failing injector?
Id swap injectors with another cylinder and see if it follows it when the car acts up...
thanks for the input guys. Another question for Ron,,, Your saying my dizzy has a bad "internal" seal. so by putting a new dizzy on that problem is fixed, or do I need a valve cover dizzy seal replaced as well ? thanks.
I've got the exact same problem but on a UKDM. I've cleaned the IACV twice and think its working as it should here's a vid I did of the IACV:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7xIo...e_gdata_player
Anyone know if the piston/plunger part should retract further when I apply voltage?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7xIo...e_gdata_player
Anyone know if the piston/plunger part should retract further when I apply voltage?
got a new distributor! having same problem.
idles fine most of the time. then sometimes at a stop/idle it will drop all the way down to almost killing engine and then back up to like 500/600rpm.
which also makes taking off a little slower....
So... I want to either clean or replace the PCV valve. Where is it? and is it possible to clean it???
idles fine most of the time. then sometimes at a stop/idle it will drop all the way down to almost killing engine and then back up to like 500/600rpm.
which also makes taking off a little slower....
So... I want to either clean or replace the PCV valve. Where is it? and is it possible to clean it???
PCV valve is connected to the black breather box, either directly or via a hose, haven't had a D motor in a few years now. Just replace it, get one from Honda, I went through 3 one time from Napa, autozone and advanced, all 3 broke. Never had the problem with a OEM Honda pcv valve.
I always replace the PCV valve as regular maintenance at the proper interval on my OBD1 civic's. On my wife's 99 Civic Lx D16Y7, it was having some troubles with idle when we bought it and because I didn't find any maintenance records showing when it was replaced, I picked one up, along with other filters and fluids, from Honda, completed the full tune up and have yet to have any other problems with the car. I always use Genuine Honda parts when doing tune up's, after the problems with napa, autozone and checker tune up parts.
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showt...ight=pcv+valve
just found this.. wow. IDENTICAL to my symptoms. yay!
just found this.. wow. IDENTICAL to my symptoms. yay!
okay, I opened my hood. found the pcv valve.
Can't get it out...
here's the parts diagram pic.
circled in red is the area I'm looking at.
#6 is the PCV valve.
circled in blue is a hose clamp.. easy enough to get loose.
but what in the hell is holding "circled in orange" to the PCV valve???
I put my hand under the manifold and felt all up and around that hose, cant feel any kind of clamp like "circled in blue" ..
yet it's on there really good.
I piddled with the hose clamp up top. I can loosen that and get it off the PCV valve. but after that. I'm stuck PLEASE HELP lol.
Can't get it out...
here's the parts diagram pic.
circled in red is the area I'm looking at.
#6 is the PCV valve.
circled in blue is a hose clamp.. easy enough to get loose.
but what in the hell is holding "circled in orange" to the PCV valve???
I put my hand under the manifold and felt all up and around that hose, cant feel any kind of clamp like "circled in blue" ..
yet it's on there really good.
I piddled with the hose clamp up top. I can loosen that and get it off the PCV valve. but after that. I'm stuck PLEASE HELP lol.


