what oil you guys using to break in new engines

 

shell 30w non-detergent

 

Brad Penn, great stuff at a reasonable price.

http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...-oil-case.html

 

which one

 

Probably the 'break in' for this situation. lol

 

we always use brad penn break in oil, then brad penn 20/50 after

 

Another option would be Lucas Oils TB-Zinc break in additive that you can add to the oil
that you normally run. It's available at most autoparts stores.

 

for a drag racing engine,what supose to be the perfect brake in or can i dyno it with the brake in oil

 

sorry i dont sheck the link before

 

You never wanna dyno with the brake-in oil due to shavings, debris, and deposits that might be in the motor. Always change the oil and filter before hitting the dyno. Truth be told and correct me if I'm wrong, I also change spark plugs after the break-in before going to the dyno. Always good to have everything new in the motor before dynoing because it's gonna take a good amount of abuse. After the dyno, change oil and plugs again.

I normally do an idle break-in, meaning have the car idle until it gets to normal operating temp and then shut it off. Check for leaks and once cooled, you can then change the oil and plugs before the dyno session. Of course this only works if you have a base map for your setup. If not, then you gotta start from scratch and tune it as it idles.

 

I use Brad Penn Break In oil.

 

Idle break in lol
You need to do some home work
Motor should be broke in under load

 

Do my homework? Read this buddy.
http://laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm

I go through his steps, then do the idle break in while making sure my afr's are within range.
Your way is a no-no, load on a fresh motor is asking for trouble.

 

actually i was told to do a heat cycle drain my oil do anothe heat cycle and drain again then look to see if there is still any debree coming out, and if not fill it back up then hit the dyno to tune under load thats from my tuner

 

the motors ive put together i let them get to temp, than cool, change the oil and then put them under load.

It seems like the load situation is the only way to get the compression to even out across the cylinders.

 

I'm with Marty I use the Lucas Additive and Joe Gibbs Break in oil...

 

just got 4 bottles of joe gibbs for my allmotor build...do i need the additive or is that good enough? and what oil do u use after the 30 minutes when u drain the 35 bucks i mean the break in oil..?

 

When breaking in a motor, you're only doing "1" thing. Seating the rings, they'll seat within the first 10 miles or so of the motor actually running so you need to make sure there's enough heat to do this.

The break-in method i use is the following.

10w-30 cheap oil, valveoline is a very good oil that i use on customer cars and my own to break motors in on..i also use cheap oil filters for the first two oil changes.

-unplug the ecu fuse, and prime the car over 2 times at approx 30 secs a piece. Leave the valvecover off while doing this so you can make sure oil is getting to the top of the head.
Replaced the ECU fuse.

-Start the car, and while the car is running, check for leaks.. allow the car to warm up to operating temp and the fans to come on and off.

-Drain the oil of the intitnal start up, replaced oil filter and oil and then drive.

-Drive the car, if its tuned, at various rpms, after the car is back to operating temp, get on it..2-5 2-7, allowing for a coast down in gear. When you're coasting down in gear, its building up crankcase pressure under the piston that will expand the rings a full 360 degrees to seat against the wall correctly.

I've broken in cars on a dyno, and on the street, while i'm tuning.. if you get your fuel multipler right, and injector off set correctly your partial throttle maps should be fairly close for you to drive on and get to a tuner.

You should have a local tuner or builder that has a good map for you to break a car in on, and drive.

 

its been proven..already, i think your misunderstanding how to properly seat rings here.

Bearing shavings on a new motor will be presence.. but only a tad, there isn't going to be anything worth getting worried over.

breaking in the motor should only take 5-10 mins for the intinal ring to start seating..you need high heat and load to do this.. not sitting and idling.

 

svt/ford did a test study and i was amazed at the proceedure that is best. some of you guys really are taking break ins way to far lol

 

Care to share?

 

I did this.
-started her up. let her idle for 10-15 minutes on 5w30 castrol gtx oil.
-drove to the nearest shell/chevron gas station doing this:
1st gear-punch it from 1k till 6k and let her coast in gear so the vacum can pull anything out of the chambers.
2nd-4th repeated what i did in 1st.
this is while driving to a gas station at 3 am.
got on the highway.
5th gear from 2k rpm till it stoped pulling at WOT and let it coast.
30 k miles and 3 years later. runs like a champ.

 

x2

 

Lol.

 

brad penn break in oil or schaffers break in oil