Rear Motor Mount Removal
What's up HT?
SO heres the deal, I'm doing my first engine pull, and am almost all set to remove it. I just wanna make sure that I don't run into anymore issues than I already have. IT seems that people make a big fuss about the rear engine mount removal and all of the bolts being difficult to get to. I searched but it looks like the people having trouble are just trying to change the mount while keeping the motor in the car. My question is- Since I am just pulling my motor and not changing the mount, it looks like I can just remove the large bolt going through the mount and it should be good for removal? Or do I have to take the mount off of the frame? Thanks guys, btw its a 93 rs with a 94gsr motor.
SO heres the deal, I'm doing my first engine pull, and am almost all set to remove it. I just wanna make sure that I don't run into anymore issues than I already have. IT seems that people make a big fuss about the rear engine mount removal and all of the bolts being difficult to get to. I searched but it looks like the people having trouble are just trying to change the mount while keeping the motor in the car. My question is- Since I am just pulling my motor and not changing the mount, it looks like I can just remove the large bolt going through the mount and it should be good for removal? Or do I have to take the mount off of the frame? Thanks guys, btw its a 93 rs with a 94gsr motor.
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you can leave the actual mount on the subframe, just pull the t-bracket out before you pull the motor, or just pull all of the bolts out of it and let it fall out/wiggle it out when you pull the motor.
Your the man.... Can I just leave the t bracket on the motor and disattach the t-bracket from the mount by that one bolt or does the bracket HAVE to come out?
leave it there. you could pull the bolt with a 17mm end wrench but it's just a bitch and a half....i've done it once and it's not fun. pull the main 3 bolts off the engine and leave the brace there.
don't be shocked if the mount is shot when you remove the engine.
i still haven't seen an oem rear mount that isn't rotted or near death.
cars are at the age this stuff is needing to be replaced, same with the axle mounts.
the two mounts that live virtually forever are the timing cover and side transmission. those things are rugged
don't be shocked if the mount is shot when you remove the engine.
i still haven't seen an oem rear mount that isn't rotted or near death.
cars are at the age this stuff is needing to be replaced, same with the axle mounts.
the two mounts that live virtually forever are the timing cover and side transmission. those things are rugged
thread jack: I'm pulling the motor from my GSR currently and Im having quite a hard time with the rear mount. It definitely isnt going to just fall out as Im pulling the motor and it doesnt have much room to wiggle out either.. All the bolts are out from the bracket on both the motor and mount side but its still catching and lifting the car as Im pulling the motor. Any ideas?
thread jack: I'm pulling the motor from my GSR currently and Im having quite a hard time with the rear mount. It definitely isnt going to just fall out as Im pulling the motor and it doesnt have much room to wiggle out either.. All the bolts are out from the bracket on both the motor and mount side but its still catching and lifting the car as Im pulling the motor. Any ideas?
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just adding my two cents to this thread to give my advice and/or 2 cents.. this jobs a total bi@ch. i did as others said.. removed the driver and passenger side lower mounts, loosened up the driverside top mount, then climbed underneath it and removed the bolts holding in the t bracket. i come to find out this bracket is nearly impossible to remove even with the motor tilted up (with the jack supporting it. what i did was removed the air intake, removed both heater hoses going to the firewall and disconnected the heater control cable. i had to unplug a few of the connectors from the wire harness as well. You will need lots of extentions and different size sockets.. ( deep sockets and regular ones). there 3 bolts holding in the mount. the bolt on the driverside was the most difficult to remove. I had to use several extentions and i put an impact gun to it to break the bolt (its going to be difficult to torque this bolt) even with all the crap i took out and removed. once the bolts are out you should be able to lift the T bracket up enough to wiggle the mount out. before attempting this, make sure you have a good amount of time on your hands, lots of patience, and a 6 pack.
Thread Jack #2-
How do you get access to the nut holding the rear mount onto the subframe of a DC?
i.e how do I remove the bolt pictured below, its loose right now but just spins freely with the nut below it. do I need to remove the pwr steering rack first?
Cant get a socket in there


Thanks
Edit... so is there even meant to be a nut under that bolt or is it one of those tack-welded nut jobbys on the subframe that i just broke off and now the bolt spins and I'm SOL.......
How do you get access to the nut holding the rear mount onto the subframe of a DC?
i.e how do I remove the bolt pictured below, its loose right now but just spins freely with the nut below it. do I need to remove the pwr steering rack first?
Cant get a socket in there


Thanks
Edit... so is there even meant to be a nut under that bolt or is it one of those tack-welded nut jobbys on the subframe that i just broke off and now the bolt spins and I'm SOL.......
Last edited by unspankable; Aug 4, 2012 at 08:53 PM.
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