did a wire tuck in my car today. started up but ran like poo, got a CEL code for 16, fuel injectors turns out one of the wires came apart. fixed it now it wont start, has no spark at all,has fuel, relay doesn't click, check engine light is permanently on with no codes to check, and battery light isn't on. any suggestions?

 

did u check it theirs spark in the distributor is it throwing any out??

 

It's your wiring

 

I am confused, you say you have fuel but relay does not "click" and CEL stays on.

Sounds to me like your problem is the PGM-FI Main Relay.

Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ign.?
Pump should run for a few sec. then turn off, at the same time, [pump turning off] the CEL should turn off. 94

 

Sounds like you shorted something out when you fixed your fuel injector wire. Start checking fuses and relays. If they're all good it's time to break out the multimeter and start checking resistance on wires to make sure they're not fried.

 

as stated above it sounds like you may have either switched some wires around when you did the tuck or shorted some stuff out when you fixed the injector wire..

i speak from experience when i say wiring is a pain, i spent a month diagnosing my wiring problem after i re-loomed my main harness and did a slight tuck. the problem turned out to be the 2 white wires coming from my distributor (tdc and common i think) got switched up and was making the whole setup go haywire...

good luck brotha i feel your pain on this one haha

 

this is why i would never do a wire tuck. too much risk of something going wrong.

 

thanks for the responses guys. ya i just pulled the fuel return line and cranked and there's no fuel at all. and the relay doesn't click and the fuel pump doesn't prime. I have 3 main relays and tried them all so it cant be the main relay. it was running like an hour before but only on 3 cylinders because of the fuel injector, but it was running that's why im so confused, everything was wired up right and it had no issue. it just came out of nowhere. what kind of fuses should i be checking?

 

Did you solder your wires?

 

yea i soldered them all and heat shrinked them

 

And everything was working before the wire tuck?

 

MM&Y of car???

I will assume it is a 90-93 Integra, if so...

There are 3 fuses for the PGM-FI Main Relay.
Fuse 38 -10A, [hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box, yellow/white lead @ PGM-FI Main Relay plug.
Fuse 24 -15A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, black/yellow lead at relay plug.
Fuse 18 -7.5A, [hot when starting only] in under dash fuse box, blue/white lead at relay plug.

Unplug the relay and test the leads in the plug, make sure all 3 leads have power on them when cranking to start, and your not losing power on the yellow/white and black/yellow when cranking to start. 94

 

yea its a 1990. k so i checked those fuses and 24 was blown, replaced. i check all the wires from the relay and there all normal. after the new fuse the battery light came back on and check engine light went away. the main relay clicks funny tho and doesnt sound like the fuel pump is priming and i had troubles starting it, like it had to crank a ton and i had to floor it on the gas and when it started it sounded like a lawnmower and it kinda stutters, but it started!!

 

If you can not hear the fuel pump priming it's not working properly, test for power on the yellow/black leads on the PGM-FI Main Relay plug, there are two of them, one is the output from the fuel injection relay and it will stay hot as long as ign. key is in run or in start positions, the other black/yellow is the fuel pump relays output lead and it will stay hot for a few sec., [pump priming] when ign. key is in run position.

Also check the fuel pumps ground lead, [black] at fuel pump plug, you can also test the yellow/black power for the fuel pump back there.

The black ground lead should have full continuity to chassis ground.
The yellow/black power lead should have 12.5V+ on it for a few sec. when ign. key is turned on. 94