H22 Civic rear Fishtail
i have an h22 civic coupe and when him on the freeway i will make a quick swerve back and forth and my rear end with feel really wobbly i have camber kits on and they are all adjusted i have lower control arms also running bilstein coilovers and its lowered quiet a bit.
couple things that i was told that it could be
camber in the rear
bushings
tire pressure
sway bar even though my car didn't come with one
to much weight in the front because its an H22
Any ideas??
couple things that i was told that it could be
camber in the rear
bushings
tire pressure
sway bar even though my car didn't come with one
to much weight in the front because its an H22
Any ideas??
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Get stiffer spring rates on those coilovers for one. Beef up your suspension. Change any worn out bushings.
What spring rate are you running now? How large a swaybar are you running? YOu were pretty generic in your parts list.
I owned a Prelude for many years. It's a whole different beast. Handling is something most Civic's cannot touch even with the best aftermarket suspension setup. Horsepower and torque is nothing to sneeze at either. Take that and put it into an economy car like a Civic and you introduce new handling dynamics that need to be compensated for.
What spring rate are you running now? How large a swaybar are you running? YOu were pretty generic in your parts list.
I owned a Prelude for many years. It's a whole different beast. Handling is something most Civic's cannot touch even with the best aftermarket suspension setup. Horsepower and torque is nothing to sneeze at either. Take that and put it into an economy car like a Civic and you introduce new handling dynamics that need to be compensated for.
The H22 will slightly hurt the weight distribution.
I think only the EX sedan and maybe one other came with a rear sway bar. They weren't common. I know the LX manual sedan came with a front. I have a LX automatic sedan and it does not have the front bar, LCAs or mounts for a swaybar.
Adding a traction bar, stiffer spring rates (most springs have numbers printed on them you can look up to find out the rates), check out your ball joints and tie rods. Any play anywhere can cause instability. And of course, not driving like an idiot. Any quick swerve at speed is going to make it handle weird.
I think only the EX sedan and maybe one other came with a rear sway bar. They weren't common. I know the LX manual sedan came with a front. I have a LX automatic sedan and it does not have the front bar, LCAs or mounts for a swaybar.
Adding a traction bar, stiffer spring rates (most springs have numbers printed on them you can look up to find out the rates), check out your ball joints and tie rods. Any play anywhere can cause instability. And of course, not driving like an idiot. Any quick swerve at speed is going to make it handle weird.
What tires have you got?
And an h22 won't mess with the weight distribution. I'm so tired of hearing this myth perpetuated. H22 blocks weigh 20-30lbs more than regular swaps. It doesn't make a quantifiable difference.
No civic came with rear swaybars standard except for the 99-00 civic Si.
Sounds like you need better tires, and a few lessons on how to enter turns properly.
Get good tires and attend a local autocross. You'll learn real fast how/why your car oversteers.
If you're really swerving on the freeway it sounds like you have bald rear tires. My whole car sticks to the road surface like glue, but I have it set up that way.
Uninstall your camber kits. That will make your car handle better. 0 camber or near zero is bad if that is what it's set at. It should be at least 1 degree and I'm running 1.6 I wish I had more camber to be honest. 2-2.5 degrees would be very nice for daily driving/autocross duty.

Beaks bars are useless. Phenomenal way to waste money. And technically, if the idea there was to stiffen up rear body roll that would actually make the car "fish-tail" more. More weight will be transferred laterally on the cars suspension and more units of grip will be demanded from the tires.
OP:
You've got bilstein shocks, what model? You should be able to look at your springs and identify the brand. If you can't, you probably have cheap ebay coils. It's hard to tell. Can you ask the previous owner of the car?
Also, what lower control arms do you have? If they're blox/skunk2/etc you might have torn bushings. Shot bushings in several components of your suspension geometry could lead to unpredictable handling and unstable high speeds.
That makes me think too, are you "fishtailing" or are you just unstable at high speeds? If your toe is out of whack, which it likely is with your botched suspension, that can lead to unstable high speed travel. Front toe should be ~.03-.05 out, and rear toe .05 in.
If it's just during active cornering it can only be one of a few things. Shitty tires, overly soft rates and high body roll, etc. I'm betting money you've got crap tires. Pair that with probably some dismal alignment suspension and alignment settings your car sounds pretty dangerous.
And an h22 won't mess with the weight distribution. I'm so tired of hearing this myth perpetuated. H22 blocks weigh 20-30lbs more than regular swaps. It doesn't make a quantifiable difference.
No civic came with rear swaybars standard except for the 99-00 civic Si.
Sounds like you need better tires, and a few lessons on how to enter turns properly.
Get good tires and attend a local autocross. You'll learn real fast how/why your car oversteers.
If you're really swerving on the freeway it sounds like you have bald rear tires. My whole car sticks to the road surface like glue, but I have it set up that way.
Uninstall your camber kits. That will make your car handle better. 0 camber or near zero is bad if that is what it's set at. It should be at least 1 degree and I'm running 1.6 I wish I had more camber to be honest. 2-2.5 degrees would be very nice for daily driving/autocross duty.

Beaks bars are useless. Phenomenal way to waste money. And technically, if the idea there was to stiffen up rear body roll that would actually make the car "fish-tail" more. More weight will be transferred laterally on the cars suspension and more units of grip will be demanded from the tires.
OP:
You've got bilstein shocks, what model? You should be able to look at your springs and identify the brand. If you can't, you probably have cheap ebay coils. It's hard to tell. Can you ask the previous owner of the car?
Also, what lower control arms do you have? If they're blox/skunk2/etc you might have torn bushings. Shot bushings in several components of your suspension geometry could lead to unpredictable handling and unstable high speeds.
That makes me think too, are you "fishtailing" or are you just unstable at high speeds? If your toe is out of whack, which it likely is with your botched suspension, that can lead to unstable high speed travel. Front toe should be ~.03-.05 out, and rear toe .05 in.
If it's just during active cornering it can only be one of a few things. Shitty tires, overly soft rates and high body roll, etc. I'm betting money you've got crap tires. Pair that with probably some dismal alignment suspension and alignment settings your car sounds pretty dangerous.
Last edited by Libertariat; Jul 18, 2011 at 03:53 AM.
Ive got kumho tires all aroundthay are almost brand new no camber wear my reae camber is at 1.4 and my front is at like 2.2 where can I buy blox lower control arm bushing anyone knoe any good bushings
Avoid blox at all costs. Absolute waste of money. Are your bushings actually worn out? You can get oem Lower control arms for around $120 and they'll perform better and last longer than anything else you could buy.
Have u checked the rear trailing arm bushings?
Get under your car and check all your bushings
And check that everythings is tight..
I've gone under several cars I've owned and found loose suspension bolts..smh
Get under your car and check all your bushings
And check that everythings is tight..
I've gone under several cars I've owned and found loose suspension bolts..smh
Why are the blox contol arms bad? My bushings are worn on the trailing arms I also need bushings for the lower contol arms the ones I have now they look like the strut is sitting to low because the bushing is sagging down
You still haven't told us what kind of tires you have. Easily the most crucial aspect for your cars safety and handling.
im in college right now i will let you know in like 2 hours but for now all i know is that they are kumhos and they are like 16 40 16 thats the dimensions.
so i really want to keep the blox arms could i just buy good bushing for them and keep or do i have to buy the oem ones?
so i really want to keep the blox arms could i just buy good bushing for them and keep or do i have to buy the oem ones?
im in college right now i will let you know in like 2 hours but for now all i know is that they are kumhos and they are like 16 40 16 thats the dimensions.
so i really want to keep the blox arms could i just buy good bushing for them and keep or do i have to buy the oem ones?
so i really want to keep the blox arms could i just buy good bushing for them and keep or do i have to buy the oem ones?
16 40 16 isn't a tire dimension. I can only guess you mean 205/40/16 which is about 7% smaller than your overall tire/wheel diameter should be. 205/45 is really the best size.
You don't HAVE to buy OEM ones. The only arms I would use besides OEM arms are Function7, and PIC.
Function7 are hands down the best, and cost $240.
PIC are somewhat of an unknown, but is a solid company in all other regards and theirs run $114 shipped I think from their website.
PIC makes good bushings, so it's a safe bet they put good bushings in their arms. An LCA is a piece of aluminum, it's hard to mess up. It's the bushings that really matter.



