Well for a little insight. I took my car to Goodyear to have them figure out my hesitation problem cause it was really bad at first. They looked at it for a day and a half and found nothing that would have caused it, but i am still having problems. So far i have noticed when the rpms are around 1.5k-~1.9 they hesitate. In upper rpms it does it to but seems to only be on the freeway when im giving it very light gas basically cruising.... Well here is a video of me just trying to hold the rpms at 2k.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KABT6Ip1Jg


Please help anyone!!!

 

Which jumper harness are you using?

 

Im running some OBD 1 ebay harness but it has ran fine for months now. It seemed to start doing this after i tried to upgrade my power and ground wires. Not sure if its a coincidence or not.... I did notice though that i upgraded the power wire before i could get the bigger ground and it poped the battery fuse in the black box but was still running because i fused the bigger wire as well. Do you think that might have ruined anything?

 

I've seen hesitation problems twice already when using cheap jumpers. Usually wires are pinned incorrectly and cause the car to run like ****.

Check all of the fuses and make sure to go through all of your grounds and clean them.

 

K going to check fuses, but for the jumper im pretty sure that is fine its had this swap in it for a few years now with no problems.

 

Fuses are good and the ground is good as well i just put a new ground on it. Im running 2 wires to one ground spot not sure if that makes a difference.

 

Well took the car back to the shop that looked at it the first time and they are guessing its the cat now, so i will be back there tomorrow morning and we are going to unbolt the cat and test it.

 

Could be alot of things, have you done a tune up plugs wires cap n rotor. I would start there, then tp sensor map sensor mabey dizzy. good luck

 

Same problem - hesitation up to 3500, no effect above that. The ecu (apexi fc) is throwing a check light on occasions, but no codes when I check the ecu for the flashes. Recent problem. The engine has been dynoed to accommodate Toda Spec B cams, and has retarded timing up to 2500 to control pre-ignition. Engine has a hard life on the track, lot of wot above 6500prm.

I do need to replace the rotor and cap - they are well worn and could have got to the stage of actually affecting things. Waiting on the cap to be delivered from the other side of Australia. None in the west!

I have been told to check the knock sensor which might be picking something up at low revs. Makes some sense given the tuning is retarded up to 2500. But there is a code for that, and I'm not getting one.

Also suggested I check the o2 sensor which might be giving the ecu some funny messages. Ditto codes.

So I'll monitor this thread and report back as I check things out.

 

There is the crank sensor in the distributor to think about. Consider the amount of heat that the sensor is exposed to. Try another dizzy to see if that clears the issue. For the future, you may want to make friends with someone who travels to Bali or Jakarta often. There a tons of Honda spare parts places there and you pick up parts quite cheaply..

 

Well we took it out with the Cat removed and my god it moves hella fast without a cat lol, and when vtec hits i really feel it pull me in unlike with the cat it was like o ya vtec rooom

 

Well the cat didnt fix the problem. I did notice though when i first take it out for the day it is the worse!!! I was driving to the exhaust shop to have the cat removed and it was really bad on the way there.

 

what are ur mods?

 

I/H/E, Odyssey battery and chipped P28.... think thats it o ya an ebay ho alt

 

u should try a different set up on ur ecu
i had that same problem then we re chipped my ecu with different fuel settings
now its running like a champ

 

mine statrted doing the same thing..switched the distributor and its good now hope it helps out

 

check ur plugs, ur distributor, check ur air filter,check ur oil etc etc start of with the basics

 

Could even be a lazy O2 sensor.
It won't throw a code, but lags in sending info to the ECU.

 

^same thing i was thinking right now

 

I am not running 02 sensors, and ive been running this car for quite some time now its a new problem.

**Update** checked plugs and they are black and i looked it up and its called dry fouling i think,but they don't list any reasons for it..... Also i replaced these plugs maybe 5k miles ago....

 

Well, maybe try installing an O2 sensor.
I'm not surprised your plugs are fouled.
I'm not surprised your car ran better without the cat.

Why/what made you think it to be a good idea not to run an O2?

 

I got the car with no 02 and don't a lot of people run no 02 when they do a swap? I mean base-map's ask if you want open loop or not so i mean its common.

 

Also if my computer is set for closed loop which is exactly what an 02 sensors goes into after it warms up then how would this have caused my problem? Also why would it be causing a problem now when ive been running this setup for a year of me owning it. Just trying to find justification for throwing parts at the car is all...

 

First, a base map is not meant to run a car on. You may have gotten lucky and it seems to run ok, but it's exactly what it says - a base to start from.
It only supports the basic engine functions so that the engine can be started for proper tuning.

I don't know of anyone running a swap, stock, or anything else without an O2 -unless- they had it tuned and can properly run off the other sensors without really needing the O2. Typically this only applies to boosted apps where they run a wideband and have no use for the narrow band O2.
(It's a different story with the dual O2 setups where one O2 is mounted at the cat. That one can be problematic and can be tricked so the ECU doesn't use it, but the primary O2 remains in place.)

After the engine warms up, the O2 doesn't stop functioning - in fact it's the opposite.
Open loop (start up, limp mode) doesn't really use O2 sensor. During normal operation, as the engine warms up it uses a 'safe' preset map where the ECU keeps checking sensors until they settle or reach specific values like coolant temps and O2 voltage. During this time it's running rich.
Closed loop starts after the ECU determines the sensors are working properly and conditions like warming up have been met. Then the ECU monitors the O2 heavily to adjust fuel mix.

So, since you aren't tuned and have no O2, you are basically dumping fuel all the time. To me, that explains why you have fouled plugs. ... and that's where I stop. Running rich is not a simple matter and makes trying to diagnose any other problem difficult. The major long term effects include carbon buildup, short catalytic convertor life, shorter o2 sensor life (guess that one doesn't apply to you), washed out rings/cylinders leading to blow-by, and burning out your exhaust.
Oh... and black bumper.

 

Well took it to a shop today and they said the problem was i had loose pigtails on my IACV so they replaced the pigtail and it "Seems" to be better now we will see later tonight or in the morning when its cold again.