95 d16z6 turbo manifold bit the dust
here i go again...my turbo manifold bit the dust. its cracked in about 4 places. its from ebay im surprised it lasted as long as it did. can anyone recommend a good turbo manifold for my d-series without spending $500? i bought the car already turboed so i dont know too much about wastegate size etc...heres a pic of the set up if it helps any.
thanks for the reply rain. i have an extra cast manifold and like all of the cast manifolds ive been lookin at the flange for the wastegate is on the top whereas the one on mine is on the side. i dont think it will clear the hood. i dont want to take everything apart and then find out its not gonna clear or i hafta change my downpipe. this is my daily driver at the moment. theres a muffler shop in aston that could make me one. it will probably cost around $400 or so.
i dont know which route to take honestly. this is the last time i buy someone else's project.
i dont know which route to take honestly. this is the last time i buy someone else's project.
i had that problem also but i had a shop well an elbow on the original wastegate location and that took care of that problem. didnt have to change my downpipe either.
def get a cast manifold. you will have to remake your down pipe and dump tube. i had to make a bund for my wastegate for it to clear my hood
thanks for the reply rain. i have an extra cast manifold and like all of the cast manifolds ive been lookin at the flange for the wastegate is on the top whereas the one on mine is on the side. i dont think it will clear the hood. i dont want to take everything apart and then find out its not gonna clear or i hafta change my downpipe. this is my daily driver at the moment. theres a muffler shop in aston that could make me one. it will probably cost around $400 or so.
i dont know which route to take honestly. this is the last time i buy someone else's project.
i dont know which route to take honestly. this is the last time i buy someone else's project.
did it just crack at the welds? if so, i'd just take it to an experienced welder and have them grind out the welds / lay fresh welds down. would be much cheaper and easier than replacing the manifold, dp, dt, etc.
now, if the metal is really crappy and it blew a hole in it (which i've seen), then yeah, you're outta luck.
now, if the metal is really crappy and it blew a hole in it (which i've seen), then yeah, you're outta luck.
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did it just crack at the welds? if so, i'd just take it to an experienced welder and have them grind out the welds / lay fresh welds down. would be much cheaper and easier than replacing the manifold, dp, dt, etc.
now, if the metal is really crappy and it blew a hole in it (which i've seen), then yeah, you're outta luck.
now, if the metal is really crappy and it blew a hole in it (which i've seen), then yeah, you're outta luck.
congrats. i have a completely stock k20 making over 450 whp with zero issues and heavily abused daily. how much of your D-series can you say is original? please don't ever compare a d series to a k, lol. they are night and day.
if you dont pay attention then why you posting in a thread about d series problems. though i agree with you about k and d series thing you could have just not posted at all instead of starting **** in the thread which could be helpful to the guy who needed an answer to his question js
What being "original" has to do with anything I have absolutely no idea, considering his Dseries built twice still costs less than your stock K. And with that he's running 10s, and you are... not. Sooo arguement is?
i do have a cast manifold but in the mean time i did order an OBX manifold but im taking the manifold to a fab shop and for $120 hes going to grind it and re enforce the welds and put new brackets on it so it can hold the weight of the turbo. he wanted to make one for me but he said the prices START at $700. i'm going to bring him the obx manifold and the cast manifold and see what he recommends. If he can make the cast manifold work i'll send back the obx manifold or keep it as an emergency spare. im out of work right now so i dont have much of a budget. in the mean time when i drive my car i hafta keep it under 4k rpms. sucks!
SQ thank you so much for posting that picture btw...im going to print out the picture and take it to my fab guy and see what he can do...id rather use the cast manifold so i dont have to worry about it. and then i can get my $190 back for the obx manifold i just bought
/logic
and running 10s in an older honda chassis, is that seriously bragging rights now? old hondas weigh like 2k lbs, stuff enough boost into any motor in that car and it'll fly.
i do have a cast manifold but in the mean time i did order an OBX manifold but im taking the manifold to a fab shop and for $120 hes going to grind it and re enforce the welds and put new brackets on it so it can hold the weight of the turbo. he wanted to make one for me but he said the prices START at $700. i'm going to bring him the obx manifold and the cast manifold and see what he recommends. If he can make the cast manifold work i'll send back the obx manifold or keep it as an emergency spare. im out of work right now so i dont have much of a budget. in the mean time when i drive my car i hafta keep it under 4k rpms. sucks!
uh, clearly the point is that if the d series internals are almost completely replaced with aftermarket stuff to achieve that goal, then the D series really isn't that great, is it? if it was, you wouldn't need to replace parts to get there.
/logic
and running 10s in an older honda chassis, is that seriously bragging rights now? old hondas weigh like 2k lbs, stuff enough boost into any motor in that car and it'll fly.
/logic
and running 10s in an older honda chassis, is that seriously bragging rights now? old hondas weigh like 2k lbs, stuff enough boost into any motor in that car and it'll fly.
At the end of the day, my car will go down the strip faster than your car will, and was cheaper to buy and build (much cheaper). Make all of the excuses that you want, but you'd still be looking at my cheaper, faster, taillights all day long.
However, we are able to acheive a cheaper and better end result using the D than we are with the K. That is the point.


