if some of you guys remember. i installed aspec suspension a while ago.
i've been rolling with the front left(drivers side wheel) +2 camber

i bought an spc camber bolt kit
and put it on..

i took it back to get an alignment and the guy said he couldnt get it to go to negative let alone zero.

he showed me too as he was doing it

he could add more positive camber but couldn't add negative

i bought another spc camber kit to see if i can fix it by using 2 camber bolts.

but before i actually get down and do the install again.
and do all this again.

do you guys have any suggestions as to what my problem can be?

just want to get input so i that while i have my car on jackstands i can check whats wrong.

 

That is really odd actually, I mean its not even within OEM specs how positive it is.

I know my front left wouldn't get as much negative as the right. that maxed at -1.9 and right went to -2.7

If you have your stock shock/spring combo take it out and compare it to the Aspec. Try to see if something is bent. Aspecs should come with a 1 year/12000 mile warranty

If not, put your stock bolts back in and take it to Honda/Acura. They shouldn't be able to charge you if you're not within spec.

 

could it be that i installed the coilover wrong?

because before the install my camber was fine.

i might just try and take the whole coilover out and reinstall it with 2 camber bolts and try and align it again?

 

here's a very good question...

i remember the tech said my coilover could be installed wrong.
like the top hat can be turned or moved or something.

do aspec tophats turn?

it is to my knowledge that they only go on one way so i didnt think twice about checking to see if the tophat turned or anything when i was installing them.

 

You don't have coilovers, and you need to learn the difference between coils and springs. How can we help you diagnose something if you're using the wrong terms?

Are you sure the spring is seated properly in the top hat? There's a groove that the spring needs to sit in.

 

i have these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-A...s#ht_716wt_939

except i bought mine from curry acura

i didnt know i had to worry about where my springs sat because they were fully assembled?

 

Ahh my bad I didn't even think of that.

Honestly I would take the whole left assembly out and compare it to your OEM one to see what's different.. check your control arms and tie rods and look for any bent suspension parts.

Is the camber noticeable, can you confirm it looks like you have positive camber? Just need to make sure it's not only the shop telling you this, lol.

Are you sure the wheel isn't bent? Can you swap the left rear wheel to the front and see if it's still positive camber?

I'm just brainstorming honestly, pics would help too.

 

Something is obviously bent man. Lower arm, Kunckle or your subframe shifted to the right and is off center

 

thanks for the suggestions. the stock wheels i have do have damage to them...it could be that

when i get a chance to take it apart. i will post pictures

and yes its clearly positive camber.

i think i may have installed the camber bolt wrong. i only untorqued one of them, removed it, then put the camber bolt in and torqued that one down...

im gonna try to diagnose this as much as i can before i decide i actually need to buy new knuckles/spindle/control arm or anything ( i am kind've on a budget, was hoping i wouldnt run into anymore problems with the car that would cost more $$, so i could get new wheels)

i find it weird this only happened after the aspec install. before it was perfect camber and toe.

i did change the tierods out myself....being a noob i could did it wrong...hmm....

 

i got a chance to take the wheel off today.
i couldnt get either of the bolts to budge probably because the alignment place tightened them with air tools.
but i did get a chance to snap pics i will post later. i checked for bends or anything...and i cannot find anything wrong with the knuckle. like i said camber was perfect before coilover install.

the camber tab is in the neutral position its facing straight down...meaning the camber bolt i put on is not adding or reducing camber...im absolutely sure i can reduce the camber more if i could get the bolts to move. and maybe add another camber bolt

i ordered 2 oem camber adjusting bolts(90188-S6M-Z01). so if anyone wants a set of spc camber bolts i have an extra set.

i am gonna try and put spc camber bolts in the top bolts, and oem camber adjusting bolts in the bottom bolts.

 

i just now realized how crappy the pics were...i was in a hurry. had to go home to finish up homework to turn in. -_-

 

Whoever installed that camber kit had no idea what they were doing.....

the washer with the thingie sticking off it should ether be pointed towards the wheel or away from it.....the washer should have a little tab that points inward( some kits have the tab on the same side as the thingie, some have it on the oppiset side).....if you are looking to add negative camber, you set the cam portion of the camber bolt pointing for the center of the car(this shifts the knuckel inward), the inwards pointing tab should be towards the wheel(this shifts the strut housing outwards )....

Don't feel bad, I have seen guys that have been working on cars for years cut the inwards facing tabss off because they did not understand how they worked.

 

yes. if you read above i put that the camber bolt isnt even do anything in that position. but i tried to untorque it to change it but i couldnt get it to budge, if i had more time i probably couldve kept at it. but with classes and work i barely had anytime to even take these pictures today =[

could i take firestone and tell them to fix it while they're doing the alignment? or is it something that i have to untorque and fix myself?

 

1/2 inch braker bat and a pipe, manup....who ever installed the camber bolt most likely put it set so you have the cam pointed to the wheel....so there is your positive camber.......


FYI, those camber bolts are almost always made sent with pinched nuts....that is they make the nut, cut the threads inside of them and then they pinch the hunt in a press so it acts like a lock nut...the problem with pinched nuts is they will sometimes gaul the threads of the bolt and wreck the whole thing....you might want to get another camber bolt jic...

 

just thought i'd update

so i ordered those oem bolts but they sent me

90188-S6M-Z02
instead of
90188-S6M-Z01

i looked up the part number and couldnt find a difference so i used it for the bottom bolts in my front knuckle/ strut
spc bolts for the top bolts

i fixed the camber on the wheel..
it's obviously not +2 anymore it is at least 0 now (could be -.3 or something close to that)

and i put on hardrace rear camber kit
all of it was a major major PITA because of stuck bolts but i got it done ( no pictures tho )
i havent gone for an alignment.
but i can confirm just by eye that my front drivers side camber is no longer positive

ill post alignment updates later and maybe pictures if i get a chance to snap some.

 

interesting thread. I hope I don't run into these issues when I install my A-specs .

 

to be quite honest...the only thing i NEEDED to fix was the front camber on my front left side...the rest i couldve left alone and driven...

but my ocd would never let me be happy with doing it that way.

 

If you're only running -.3 camber in front there, you obviously don't have OCD.

thats still messed up tho.

And I may want that SPC front camber kit BTW.

 

i ended up needing one of those bolts to get more negative on the front.
i only have 1 spc camber bolt left...lol
if you want it i can sell it you for like dirt cheap lol


is it ok that i had to grind off the handle on the washer? because i was putting the camber bolt into the bottom hole as well but the washer wouldnt be able to be positioned correct because of the strut ( needed the handle facing outwards, but as you can see in the picture there was something in the way. so grinded the handle off)

 

anyone know?? if its ok to shave off that handle?
or maybe just bend it so it's 90 degrees to the washer

wont fit in the strut the correct way with it...

 

bump for an answer

 

do not run upper and lower crash bolts......you know all those people that claim they "slip"....thats because they try to use them upper and lower crash bolts....the trick with crash bolts is you set the camber and snug up the crash bolt, then you tq the hell out lower stock bolt to hold things togather.... if you have positve camber with out any camber bolts. Something is bent, the car was not sold that way and no regular mod you can do would cause that. Take the car to a frame shop and have them put the car on a frame rack and take mesurments....find the problem and fix it. do not just try to use a bandaid like double crash bolts to fix things.

 

oks... on that side it's barely -.2
its maxed out. i guess im just gonna be running -.2 camber in the front on both sides since i dont have funds to do it the correct way

thank you.

 

If you only have -.2 degrees of negative camber with one set of crash bolts, something is still wrong. I have installed a ton of these and they are always -1.2 to -1.5 degrees....

 

yeah one side goes to -1.5

other side maxes out at -.2

im just gonna even out both sides at -.2 and call it a day for now.

-.2 camber is not too bad its close to 0. i was hoping to get -1.0

i'll end up fixing it later the correct way after i buy new wheels

i've postponed gettin new wheels long enough. (i need new wheels since the stockies are in such bad condition and i need new tires soon also)

time to find myself some rpf1 17x7.5.