Hello, my daughter was driving her accord when she said it started running really rough with no power. I don't know how she got it home. I can't get it started for more than about 4-5 seconds before it dies, it acts like it is missing like crazy, no power. I suspect a vacuum leak but didn't see anything obvious under the hood on top. Any thoughts on what to check? Thanks.
Paul

 

I just had a mechanical friend take a look at it. he could not get it started and thinks it might be a fuel pump. I smell plenty of gas and could get it started for a few seconds before it died. could this be a fuel pressure issue? the problem occurred suddenly per my daughter. thanks.

 

Check for stored codes.

Then confirm BLUE spark at the plugs.

Listen for the fuel pump to "prime" when you turn the key to "on"-not start, pos II on the switch, it should prime as the CEL comes on and stop when the CEL goes off.

post the answers.

 

Most certainly, it's something about electrical. My did the same thing, but mines a prelude.
You car will have CEL on. Trying giving out what the code is.
From my stand point, it should be code 15?

When the key is on the "ON" position, you should hear it hum for a second or 2.
If it starts then dies out, it's not your fuel pump.

 

I am now thinking it may be the timing belt/chain. Seems to have plenty of fuel coming out of the line. I got a little more info from my daughter on what happened. she was driving on the freeway when it stumbled really bad and died there on the road. She had a friend with AAA tow it home. Hoping the motor was not damged if it is the timing belt. Has about 175K+ but not sure if timing was ever changed.

 

plugs were fouled, valve cover gasket leaking bad. replaced plugs and started but wouldn't stay running just like before. can't be timing. back to fuel pressure. gage showed steady at 41. books says 40-47 is the range. anyone think it could be the pump? is 41psi enough to start but not enough to keep running?

 

Does it seem to die just as you let go of the key-so as you "release" from start to "on"?

Key on, there is a BLK/YEl at the dist-what voltage reading are you getting?

 

Have you checked the main relay? It controls the fuel pump, and when it gets old, it can cut in and out. This sounds like what mine was doing when my main relay went out.

 

I will be putting in a new Main Relay today. Sure hope that is it. thanks.

 

No prob. It's a pretty common issue with Hondas of this era. Keep us updated.

 

my car acted this way also, though mines a 5 speed, and it turned out to be a map sensor. i agree that the main relay would be something to check also. pull up the carpet on the passenger side and see if the ecu has a light on it. if it does turn the key to the on position and watch the light if it blinks at all that tells you the code. long blinks is the first of a two digit number and shorts blinks is the second. it will display the codes in order with a pause between each code and repeats them over and over. if it is just short blinks ex. 3 short blinks the code is a code 3.

if you do decide to replace the map sensor go to a junk yard and get one. 90-93 accords are usually plentiful in junkyards. i pocketed 2 map sensors from the first two cars i found. plugged the first one up and it worked. a new one will run you over $300

i would say the alternator but if you can continue getting it to start the battery would have been drained and it wouldnt start anymore
your fuel system seems to be working correctly. have you checked the oil levels since the valve cover has a leak? i would change this fast along with the spark plug tube seals(they come with the valve cover gasket)

 

I changed the main relay. no change, same problem.

 

it runs for a few seconds but really rough, then dies. I will have to check the voltage

 

it sounds like it could be the cam timing(markings found on the cam gear itself) ive heard they slip out of time due to worn belts which is not the not the manual timing(which is located on the flywheel via rubber pull out grommet on front of trans case) a lil confusing i no.. or theres is 2 belts 1 timing 1 cam balance but u wouldnt get spark if it was 1 of those.... there also is the ignitor which is inside the distributor i had faulty connection where id have spark 1 min the next nothing... lots of searching n diagnosing could help these things r tempermental

 

40 psi is plenty of pressure to run the vehicle. At this point I would take focus off of fuel. Have you checked for spark? Have you checked cam timing? Is there any way you can take a video of this problem as it's happening so we could have a better idea of what's going on? MAP sensors are the least likely cause of any driveability problem on a Honda. 99% of the time people diagnose MAP sensors incorrectly.

 

since it will start a run for a few seconds so it is getting spark. we are guessing it can't be the timing belt or it would not start?

the friend I have helping me with this says he thinks the dist. is fine since it is getting a good steady spark.

 

I agree, I don't think fuel. I don't have a vid camera. it will start and run for a few seconds, very rough, then die. takes a bit of cranking and rest between before it will start for a few seconds. It has spark. assuming if cam timing was off it would not start at all?

 

Depends on how much the cam is off. Just to be safe and ensure I wasn't wasting a lot of time I would take 15 minutes and pull the top timing cover off and doubl check. It might save you time and money. If your car ran before you put the belt on.....the problem might be due to an error made installing the belt. I think double checking would be a very smart investmet of time.

 

No codes? Is the check engine light on?

 

there is a Honda mech guy coming to look at it tonite. He should have a way to check for any codes. will let you know what he finds. Thanks.

 

This is when spark should be tested? When it is cranking and not starting, a coil or ICM the is going out will spark sometimes, then not/\.

Als, have you inspected the cap and rotor?

 

the mech tested all the stuff we already did, fuel, spark, etc.
going to check the CPU tonite.

 

has spark while cranking and not starting. cap and rotor look good.

 

hey there, this is my first reply on this site! neways, sounds kinda like you may have a bad ground off the batt to the fender? mine busted off on the race car (dirt oval) and when it was cold it would do that.

 

if you say that spark is there ,fuel is there then the only thing left is compression.and make sure the timing marks are aligned properly.another thing,is the air filter clean?(not blocked)