so heres my problem. i have a 96 accord with a f22b2 auto. it blew the head gasket so i took it to a machine shop to get checked. it had a low spot between cylinders 1 and 2. the shop decked the head by .004 thousands. he installed new valve seals and spark plug tube o-rings along with a thorough cleaning. while he had the head, i did the waterpump and checked the block for warpage. block checked out ok, it met the tolerances allowed by honda. i used a new MLS honda head gasket and new timing belt. i reused the headbolts since they arent torque to yield. torqued to 181ft/lbs. i cleaned out all passages in the intake manifold inc. egr. replaced all seals, gaskets and o-rings, cap, rotor with honda parts. also new ngk v-power plugs. it took me a few attempts to get it timed properly due to the fact that i never pulled the engine out. when timed properly it fired right up and idled perfect til the temp reached normal for a lil while and the fan kicked on, after that i shut it off. bad tires on my 18s so i couldnt drive it at that moment. since then the stock 14s are back on it and i took it for a spin. it ran great til it warmed up then i had no power and had to keep my foot in the floor just to pass 4000 rpms. i jumped the blue connector under the glovebox and had a bad TPS. i replaced that and the main relay and have the same problem. now it will idle perfect til it warms up then it shuts off and wont start til its cold again or i floor the gas and force it to start. the only performance parts on it are an intake and prothane mount inserts. the car has been doin this for 7 months and i cant figure it out. any help would be useful

 

Have you tried swapping the MAP and TPS connectors? they are an identical 3 wire connector. Sometimes they can get switched during a head swap. Another thing to check might be the engine coolant temperature sensor, it is the 2 wire sensor located under the distributor. make sure that it's connected and working properly.

 

i swapped the map and tps sensor clips,started fine then the engine light came on and it died. temp sensor is a new tasauto.com 160 degree sensor. took it out anyway thinkin it could be defective but it dies after heating up with both sensors. could the ignition control module inside the distributor be causing this all. i havent tested or changed anything internally cuz it all worked before i tore it down.

 

181 ft/lbs.??? Typo? Should be 73 ft/lbs., right?

 

I have never seen a temperature related issue involve the ICM. However that doesn't mean you can't test your ignition system. Test it first while it's at ambient temps. Then test it again once it's warmed up.

What CEL did you get when you swapped the connectors?

Did you set the voltage for the TPS when you replaced it?

Yeah 181 is a wee bit on the toyt side of 72.3lbf-ft. 181lbf-ft is the crank shaft pulley bolt specs.

 

the cel codes i got involved the heated O2 sensor and tps having irregular voltage. O2 was to high and TPS was to low at WOT. thanks for correcting me, had the wrong torque specs floating in my head. i just picked up an used 99 accord distributor so im gonna swap the ICMs and see what it does. the 99 has the same module as my 96. when i replaced the TPS i set it to .5 volts and 4.983. i couldnt get it to stay at a stable 5 volts for some reason.