I have had the alternator rebuilt twice. Swapped it out more than 4 times with alternators that tested okay at the parts store.
I had upgraded/checked all grounds.
I have checked for frayed wires and more short possibilities.
I have replaced fusible link.
The alternator/solenoid fuse#18 under the dash is fine.
I have ran a wire straight from the alternator terminal to the battery.
I have checked voltage at fuse box, alternator terminal, fuse #18 under the dash, and the black/yellow power wire to the alternator all check out to be voltage of the battery so this indicates no break in the wires.
Battery was charged and tested at the autoparts store and was said to be good.

Im going insane. My car has confused everyone that has looked at it, four of my friends that rebuild and sell hondas for a living. What should I do next? I have bypassed the ELD by using a one wire to the alternator.
My alternator was rebuilt to 100 amps and I forgot to mention before the alternator i first had went out because i was pushing a 600 watt bridged 4 channel Boston acoustics gt42 amp for a mtx thunder series 7500 12 inch sub in a sledge hummer box.
But of course thats been out an unhooked for 3 weeks.

 

I am just curious... Is your "battery light" ON?

 

no because i the wires connected to the alternator that control that are unplugged

 

After you start the car up, disconnect the '+' terminal off the battery.
Does the car continue to run?

 

is the field wire of the alt. connected to a ground source?

 

Yes the car will run but sputter kinda if you rev it when battery cable + is disconnected. sounds okay under higher revs.

what wire are you calling the field wire btw?
black/yellow
white
white/blue stripe
blue/white stripe

the grounds by the headlights, thermostat, valve cover and transmission are good grounds.

 

mine was solid blue...what year is yours?

 

89 si with a b18a1 ls motor. it might be solid blue and not stripped. ill look in a minute.
what do that do? does that need to be grounded? i ask the dude at the alternator shop if one of the wires off the back needed to be grounded but he said no.

 

How did they test the battery? They should be hooking up a load and watching the voltage as a discharge test is run. If they simply charged it and checked voltage that won't really tell you much.

 

no they did more than that. they used some machine they had. i wasnt present when tested because they charged it up for me before testing it. I took it to oreilly if that helps.

that battery seems to be whats helping me drive it. Its just a hybrid now lol. Only runs till the battery power goes all the way out. I keep a charger in the hatch when i drive it.

 

But didn't you just run the engine with the battery disconnected?

 

yeap. and thats what had the dude that rebuilt the alternator scratching his head and saying, "it just dont make no sense."

Its like their is a HUGE parasitic drain or short somewhere but not.. Ive checked the wiring over so many times.

 

YO 4drEF you still got that adapter from the heater box after you remove AC? how much do you want for it?

 

How many volts are you getting at the battery with the car running?

I would be skeptical of the battery by the story so far even though you had it tested.
Can you try a different battery? Or a stock alternator?

DREWBY230 - sent you a PM

 

That depends on what the battery is at. It never goes over 14.0 ever. Like it should.
I have tried a combo of three batteries and four alternators (dohc&sohc civics and integras). You can watch on a voltmeter the cars voltage will slowly drop after 15 minutes of idling or so and maybe die out because the battery charge drops so low.
I can try to video this when i have more hands/

 

if you have bypassed all but one wire then you have taken your voltage regulator out of the equation...thats why its not charging...i looked at the schematic for yours and the blu/wht should be the "field" wire...there is also a hole on the rear of the alt. that allows you to full field with a screwdriver for testing...just be careful not to let the voltage go past 18v or youll fry your ecu...if it is a field issue youll eventually have to find the proper resistor to put inline to ground to get your desired charging voltage

 

The people that rebuilt my alternator replaced the voltage regulator in the alternator from a 4 prong to a three prong. Where should i connect the white/blue stripped wire? the factory plug will no longer fit and needs a female end put on the wire to connect it to the alternator.
Where does the white/blue wire trace back to? ELD?
Can/should the white/blue wire be grounded out?

 

Brand new battery and brand new 130 AMP alternator and STILL only cranking out 12.34 volts at idle max.

I now hate my honda...

 

check your ELD eletronic load detector