d16a6 rotor screw fell out-3 times-2 motors!
3 times on two different D16a6 engines the screw holding the distributor rotor has fallen out!
We have a 1991 SI hatch and a 1991 AWD wagon, both with stock D16a6 engines.
First time i had the car towed and waited two days for the shop to announce it was not the timing belt, just the little rotor screw - they fixed it, they said. Two months later, same car-same thing. Replaced the rotor (with tiny screw) for six bucks and used thread lock.
Happened once to the wagon too, i fixed that ... seems to be holding.
How common is this problem and what is the best PERMANENT fix?
thanks,
Dave
We have a 1991 SI hatch and a 1991 AWD wagon, both with stock D16a6 engines.
First time i had the car towed and waited two days for the shop to announce it was not the timing belt, just the little rotor screw - they fixed it, they said. Two months later, same car-same thing. Replaced the rotor (with tiny screw) for six bucks and used thread lock.
Happened once to the wagon too, i fixed that ... seems to be holding.
How common is this problem and what is the best PERMANENT fix?
thanks,
Dave
heres a even BETTER IDEA, convert it to obd1 and get rid of that **** distributor. OBD1 distributors have a NOTCH in the spindle so that **** cant freewheel it (lol its happened to me before and i laughed my *** off when i stumbled across this thread). i better stfu before it happens to me lol. but imma convert my crx to obd1 as soon as i get off my deadass and finish the harness LOL but thats one thing i noticed when i rebuilt the dist. the **** is notched so it cant freewheel it. even if the screw falls out itll still spin on correct time like its sposed to (might slap the screw around a bit in there but at least ur not sputterin out and dyin LOL
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Happened to me on my rex goin up a hill on the freeway... just started backifing like crazy and shut off... didnt kno exactly what it was but one of those free tow guys patroling the freeway pulled up and even KNEW EXACTLY that it was that lol. Extremely common.
You have to use the appropriate "color"... Can't just "red" everything - purple probably isn't the best idea either (unless you are color blind and meant blue) since it is just for hi-tack sticking (gaskets). Blue would be your best bet... Green could suffice but blue fits the need nicely. Also - buy quality parts instead of garbage if you are changing your rotor that often.
P.S. - this post wasn't directed solely at you KING, so calm down.
P.S. - this post wasn't directed solely at you KING, so calm down.
Ah..yes..commercial vs. shop products. I was referring to loctite 638. It is bluish/purple.. but if the OP cannot pick that stuff up, then 243 would suffice.
Makes sense Honda would change it in ''92.
Will an OBD1 distributor fit the D16a6 head properly, or will only two bolts line up? Will the ECU need to be changed, or can i just run the newer distributor as OBD0?
Surprising there aren't more comments mentioning loose rotor screws when people are having timing issues and changing their distributors.
Thanks for the feedback, it really helps.
Will an OBD1 distributor fit the D16a6 head properly, or will only two bolts line up? Will the ECU need to be changed, or can i just run the newer distributor as OBD0?
Surprising there aren't more comments mentioning loose rotor screws when people are having timing issues and changing their distributors.
Thanks for the feedback, it really helps.
Makes sense Honda would change it in ''92.
Will an OBD1 distributor fit the D16a6 head properly, or will only two bolts line up? Will the ECU need to be changed, or can i just run the newer distributor as OBD0?
Surprising there aren't more comments mentioning loose rotor screws when people are having timing issues and changing their distributors.
Thanks for the feedback, it really helps.
Will an OBD1 distributor fit the D16a6 head properly, or will only two bolts line up? Will the ECU need to be changed, or can i just run the newer distributor as OBD0?
Surprising there aren't more comments mentioning loose rotor screws when people are having timing issues and changing their distributors.
Thanks for the feedback, it really helps.
No, wont work. If you wanna run an OBD1 Dizzy you need an ECU and Appropriate Oxygen Sensor as well as a OBD0-OBD1 jumper harness.
I dont believe the bolt wholes line up either if you were to try a Z6 dizzy on an A6 head.
Even OBD2 distributors bolt up to the A6 head and can be used with an OBD1 ECU.
Just would have to make sure a non-vtec distributor was used (or convert a vtec distributor) for the CYP sensor to work properly.
I personally only use the "Loctite" brand name and assumed where you were coming from... the only thing is most people here are just going to go to the nearest retail parts store and buy it (like Permatex brand or the likes). That was the angle I was coming from.
"Loctite" brand it will be.
Sounds like i should be careful with which 'strength' i use so the rotor can be changed from time to time. Is there a best strength to use?
Sounds like i should be careful with which 'strength' i use so the rotor can be changed from time to time. Is there a best strength to use?
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