I have a 2001 yellow ITR, i have a Aem Cal, Dc 4-1 JDM header, Magnecor wires, iridium plugs, Straight pipe, invidia full piping exhaust. Exterior= JDM font end , on 16x7 bronze mugen mf10s. I just bought skunk2 stage 2 cams and the valvetrain. Has anyone ever installed skunk2 stage 2 cams in there car, and if so how was your car running?

 

Dont do it they found that the skunk2 stage(2)'s have a problem go with the stage(3)'s or 1's the cams create valve clearence issues.




[Modified by TheRiddler, 5:45 AM 10/2/2002]

 

Sounds like a nice car, ... you need some Sp00ns or TODA Bs to go with all that.

 

Another member on here hit 198whp with Skunk 2 Stage 1s and hit 197whp with Stage 2s.... stock bottom end.

 

So far the Skunk2 Stage 2's have worked great for me. I am using custom JE pistons with deeper valve reliefs to accomodate the bigger cams. It would not be a bad idea to clay your motor with the cams installed. If you are using adjustable cam gears (you should be if you want to utilize the full potential of the cams) , clay the motor with the intake cam advanced as far as you think you might go, and the exhaust cam retarded as far as you think you are going to go. This way you can find out if you will have valve to piston clearance issues the easy way. As opposed to the hard way where you bend all of your valves and beat up your pistons.

 

Thanks for the info man.

 

I'm making 200hp and 129tq at 8700 with the stage 2's. I'll probably be in the 205-210 range at 9200-9500 rpm.

 

agree

 

Why must me use those JDM cams?? I think the smart tuner goes with the skunk 2's. They have been making constantly good power with little or no problems thus far. The cut is basically a JUN 3 cut but $200-250 cheaper. Just because his car is JDM'ed out doesn't mean he's gotta use JDM cams. I say stick with the skunk 2's and good luck. You'll probably be in the 192-200 whp range with good tuning and your other mods. In the future Skunk 2's or Jun 3's (almost the same again, but I haven't seen any skunk 2 cam breaking posts yet) will be in my car

 

Stage 1's
Stage 2's

 

skunk2 cams are supposedly made the same exact way OEM ones are made.
aren't the spoon cams made by toda? or is that the cam gears...
if not then the spoon cams are just CTR cams in a spoon box
the specs on the skunk2 stage 2 cams are VERRRY identical to the
JUN III's.
jeff from importbuilders will tell you they do pretty much the same thing
(performance wise)
..and....they're cheaper!

 

there are issues with the stage 2's. it how they dont line up correctly at top dead center. as far as valve clearance goes, its just like any other cam, depends on pistons, head, headgasket, etc. if you want to be sure you better clay it

 

What is this about them not lining up properly at TDC? When I installed mine, the marks lined up perfectly (using AEM cam gears). Is it an issue with the Skunk2 cam gears , perhaps ? I am veeeery curious about this issue.

 

its posted in another thread. look on the itr forum in a thread by michael delany about shredding oem belts. its in that thread

 

I think it's got something to do with some of their cam gears. I've heard of people with this problem but mine lined up perfectly and I'm running their cams and camgears.

 

isn't TDC different w/ every (different) cam?

 

Come on now, I need a stage 1 intake cam asap!

 

Your car sounds sweet. I would have gone with TODA tho.

 

what rpm do the skunk2 stage 1's make power up to?

 

Why Toda? Skunk stage 1's own Toda's A, B and some C's.

 

8200ish. I was still at 190whp at 8600rpm.

 

Skunk2 Stage1.......

 

why not keep the stage 2.. wouldnt that give u more power?

 

ok if i get stage 1 cams do i still need to tune the car?

do i need somekind of stand alone coupter for it?

what else do i need if i get stage 1's ??? sorry for the newb question~

and how does Jun 1's compare to skunk 1's? which is better?

 

Yes, you need to tune the car, and no, you don't need a standalone.