B18c1 stock bottom
B16a2 head
Gsr cams
Aem cam gears
fpr
3 inch intake
type r im
Gsr throttle body
dc 4-1
2 1/4 piping to 2.5 outlet(not a muffler)
obd1 gsr ecu (feels better than the itr

 

there's no question here.....

but..i'm going to assume you want more hp

so

if you stay NA get the compression up. a set of p30 pistons would do wonders along with a real tune

if you boost it, well.....the lower compression of the engine lends itself to a turbo. save up $3500-4000 or so and push the power up

 

So, by replacing your gsr head with a pr3 head you have effectively lowered your compression ratio.

Adjustable cam gears are pretty useless on a stock motor...some stock type r motors like a +1 degree on the intake cam, but thats about it.

Fuel pressure regulator for...? Again relatively useless for your application.

Type-R intake manifold...a step in the right direction.

3 Inch intake pipe

DC sports headers are junk. Look into PLM. They make rep headers of just about every good design.

3 inch exhaust piping all the way back and run a vibrant muffler if you want to quiet it down.

I hope you plan to run some kind of tuning system...Neptune, Ectune, ect.

 

you can get a hy-tech tri y header on ebay the knockoff the steel quality is better then the DC so is the whp my cars boosted but I picked up 15whp over the dc.

I see no point in changing the head it's like going backwards for no reason.
you could do higher compression pistons and a set of valves and valve springs and retainers. If the motor needs to be rebuilt. I'm sorry but very few engine builders can build a motor anywhere near how it was built at the factory. Obviously people want more power so they do rebuild them which is ok but it's a big expense.

Sounds to me like your best bet would be to go with the header I recommended and an AEM cold air intake and not worry about the tune keep your factory GSR head.

 

add in a catback a mugen twin loop would be a good choice and enjoy your ride.

 

unless your totally changing the internals in the engine there is no reason for a tune your throwing money away that could be put to other high quality parts. Your not going to make some extraordinary amount of power just by having it tuned and certainly not over and above what you could get from keeping it stock and doing simple bolt ons. not to mention all the problems you could run into from getting an improper tune.

 

x2

some of you guys act like either the ecu is:

a: self learning

or

b: if it runs that means it must be great

 

You've got all this stuff designed to support a car that makes power (aftermarket FPR, cam gears) but nothing that actually does. My advice is to get some good cams in there and get a decent tune. Depending on cams that could take you from probably 150 whp to 170-180, or more if you also do something to increase compression. After that polish up the bolt ons (better header, 2.5" exhaust, etc.) and you'll be set. That's what I would do (or what I am doing I should say).

 

For the people that don't like tuning...I guess theres no point in taking advantage of the parts you put on the car right?

Like Racebum has already stated...Do you think the ecu is self learning?

 

the fpr was 15 bucks off my boy and the cam gears where on the gsr cams when i bought them but now i dont have to get them later. id like to stay n/a because this is my daily driver. about better headers i live i ca so whatever i get has to be carb legal i get pulled over almost every friday. id like to see how much power i can pull out of it before i start on the block but eventually i will. i know theres alot of options out there just seein what yall have done to save me some money. btw i run 100oct

 

You run 100 octane on a daily driver in SoCal? The money saved on getting a proper engined tuned on 91 can yield you some nice parts.

I have a similar build as yours with P30 pistons and make around 200whp with 91 Octane, and still get 28mpg.

 

im testing it out for my self to see if theres any difference cause none of the things ive read said for sure of its gains. what are you runnin?

 

the b16 head is so i can use the type r im and i have ctr pistons that i planned for later. from what i understand its safer that way. i like to stay one step ahead of myself

 

On that note, I'm out.

 

decided to get a hytech rep header the gains people talk about are insane. if i do this how much bigger exhaust pipe?

 

B18c1 block bored .40 over, P30 pistons, LS rods/crank.. SMSP rep header, A'PEX WS exhaust, 310cc RC injectors, Skunk2 IM, 70mm throttle body, b16 head port & polished, dwerkz stage 2 cams(gonna upgrade to Skunk 2 Pro 1's), JG valvetrain.. everything else pretty much stock.

 

I'm lost by some people's comments there is no need to tune a stock gsr motor with bolt ons it's cost Vs reward. close to a grand having it tuned right come on how much power do you think magically appears out of thin air. Unless he's going into the motor or putting a turbo or supercharger on the car I see no need for a tune. There some shady tuners out there to say the least. It's hard as heck to find a good tuner that isn't a fly by night tuner so unless he lives within driving distance of some top notch shops it's not worth it. Lets just say he puts on the hytech header and the aem cold air intake and a descent exhaust like a mugen twin loop he's only going to pick up 20-25whp in reality it's not going to reach a point where it's running lean and he burns the motor up. whats the tuner going to be able to do for him a timing adjustment on the cams well he can do that himself oh you think he's going to make allot more power from cutting on V-tech earlier wrong. The only thing a tuner can do is add more fuel and it makes no sense to put a B16 head on a GSR block just go with the stock GSR motor if he has one.

The bottom line is unless he's going into the motor or putting on a supercharger or turbo he doesn't need to worry about tuning it. He would do fine with a stock gsr motor and a aem cold air intake a hy-tech tri y header knockoff from ebay or if he wanted to look jdm he could go with the toda knockoff the hytech makes a few more ponies and put a descent exhaust on it and call it a day. Let him save his money and either buy a full race turbo kit or the new rotrex system or go back into the motor raise the compression insanely high install hondata injectors new throttle body type R cams Type R valves CP pistons supertech valve springs and titanium retainers and then he might have something or even the toda v-tech killer cams work good on all motor from what I hear. Arp bolts and eagle or pauter connecting rods. His best bet would be to go with a full race turbo kit but something tells me he's not wanting 500 horsepower and wanting to drop that kinda bread and butter into a build. So on that note I'm out he can get ripped off by a shady tuner if he wants too.

 

Few things..

1. You type v-tech. It's VTEC, not some electronic phone company. I could care less about your reasoning as to why but there's no reason why people can't just type VTEC and do it the correct way. Sure you're just making a point, but it's an acronym, not a word.

2. He has a b16 head which lowers compression on stock pistons. Without a proper tune after a change of compression, a/f mixtures will be off and it will cause problems. A tune will effectively fix this.

3. Most of the people in this thread suggested getting higher compression pistons or cams AND a tune to yield more usable power. Yes, the breather bolt ons don't require a tune, but that just goes without saying. The money saved from tuning can go towards parts that probably require tuning to be able to maximize anyway. Get it out of your head that we're suggesting him to get his car tuned for no reason. Again, see #2.

4. What's $300 in tuning to $1000-3000+ in mods/engine building? I don't see how you could suggest not to tune to save a few extra dollars and not deal with shady tuners. It's pretty much a given to go to a reputable tuner to tune your engine, let alone investing 300 dollars to make sure your engine runs reliably and have the most usable HP. Besides, he's in California. There are plenty of reputable, trustworthy, and great tuners in the entire state.

 

QFT

Compression change = must tune. Also must tune if that FPR is regulating different from stock.

And here's some math:

$2000 breather mods w/o tune = +10 whp
$400 tune = +10 more whp

What's more cost effective?

 

I would do 3" short ram intake w/v-stack, 2.5" magnaflow hi-flow cat. and 2.5" piping with an ITR muffler or something quiet since we're in the great state of CA. Along with that, a street tune through any choice of OBD-1 ECUs. Good enough for street and track. People have hit mid 14. secs in stock Integras.

Long story short, my friend used to have a DC2 with a JDM GSR block(10.6:1cc but with a PR3 head, it's 10.4:1) with a B16 head, ITR I/M, 97 ITR cams, 2.25' CAI, DC header, Greddy Dunk exhaust, GSR tranny and a street tune. His **** pulls. He said he pulled on RSX's with mods. Pretty much a Poor Mans Type R.

I just don't understand why people would lower their compression. Makes no sense.

So right now your cc is 9.8:1. Stock USDM B18C1 is 10.0:1. Wish you would still have your P72 head.

Also don't forget to keep all of your stock parts for smog or if you get stop by a Cop or two.

I'd say sell what you have but keep the transmission. Pick up a B18C R long block($2,500) AND do what I said above AND you can still pass smog.

 

I misread the original post he's not saying he has a whole GSR engine just the bottom end. hmm it doesn't make a lot of sense to lower the compression by doing this but if thats all he has to get it on the road I suspect it's ok but would require a tune. If he's in california have church automotive tune it there reputable as they come. out here on the east coast there not allot of reputable tuners that I've been able to find. The two shops I know do a good tune on the east coast are Evans Tuning and Motorvations in alabama. I guess the question is how much money does he have to burn. If he has the money get a GSR or type R head but it doesn't sound like thats going to happen. So yes he could use the B16 head but by all means while your in the motor put in some very high compression pistons and Eagle rods. I personally like Weisco when it comes to going higher in compression. They started out in motorcycle racing which is high compression so there experience seems to go a long ways when it comes to high comp in a honda. Are we all in agreement that the Hy-tech Tri Y header is the way to go it won the header shootout on honda tech. I love mine and haven't had a single problem with it rusting or anything I got mine off ebay for 200 dollars. He will have to have some welding done a short cat and a reducer but it's well worth it for the power gain. Now understanding this yeah he needs a tune. If it was mine I wouldn't put it on the road right now. If I had a good job I'd put back the money for a full race turbo kit and a fully sleeved block build and make the 500whp I've been wanting but thats just me everyone has different goals and aspirations. lesson I learned was to read the original post a little better. I thought he said he had a gsr head so my apologies.

 

plan changed.. selling damn near everything to buy parts in japan late december. then street tuned carb legal turbo 6psi nothing crazy. i like clean builds not just fast

 

from my understanding there working on the rotrex kit for our motors might be something to look at when it comes out. I've got the jackson racing supercharger on mine wish I had gone with a turbo so your making the right move. The rotrex should be better then a turbo I'm just weighting to see some hard dyno numbers before I give it some serious thought. The IAT's are supposed to be really low with the rotrex. wonder if you can't just get a carb legal turbo kit and then upgrade the turbo later. I've got a friend who ran into that carb issue you have out in california he bought a carb legal turbo kit then bought the full race twin scroll manifold turbo and wastegates he has the hondata every year he changes the manifold and turbo and then reloads his maps. He has one map to pass inspection then comes home pulls the manifold and turbo off and puts on the full race stuff and loads his other map. gets kinda dicey in CA with emissions

 

Just curious why you don't like the JRSC. Is it just that you want more power than it can provide?

 

The problem with the jackson is I want more power then it can provide if I had the gsr motor in a crx then it would probably be more then enough power but in an integra 243whp just doesn't seem to be enough. The other problem is you may make 243whp on your first run at the track and as you drive the supercharger gets heat soaked so you start dropping power down to roughly 220whp at the wheels after a good 15 minutes of hard track driving. They make an intercooler for the jackson but it cost 1300 dollars might at well put the money towards a turbo. I'm actually having a company set me up with a 15 shot of nitrious oxide it's a very low shot but will pick up allot of power just from cooling the supercharger. A 15 shot should give me 30whp which isn't allot but I will be able to run it a long time between bottle fills. So for the money with the integra I would go with a turbo or rotrex system and personally I would only run a full race turbo kit. I suspect I'd try to find a carb sticker to be able to squeeze by emissions. If I was required to stay at the power level of the jackson I'd probably do the top of the line K series swap and go all motor but seeing as how I already want more power the only way to go from here is a full race turbo kit or swap everything into a lighter car.