Hello to all! (sorry for my english)

im preparing to enter in the track race championship in my country.
There are two categories. Tourism and tc2000. because im on budget, cant achieve tc2000 and be competitive, so i think tourism is my way to go

The rules for tourism are.

up to 1600cc
no turbo
SOHC

So i will start with a JDM 1998EK civic SOHC vtec with d16z6 vtec(im right??)

i wonder if someone can help me with links, stores experiences to powerup my civic and be competitive.

i want:

full exhaust
Intake
sparkplugs, cables
if necesary ecu program, modification, standalone.

Thanks to all

 

good header, 2.5" with turn down (race muffler if you like)
aem, skunk2 intake manifold
ngk plugs & wires
hondata, aem, motec

i would look into getting a cam also if it is allowed.

 

thanks lo buck.

what involves the cam mod?? yes it is allowed. Have you any resource for learn a bit about cam timing??

 

maybe only changing the pulley for an adjustable one??

 

Why don't you run it with no modifications to get to know your car, then slowly add what you see fit.

 

It's for a race class, nobody is going to learn from the back of the pack with an underclassed car. I'd normally agree but since he has a class he might as well get logical information about how his driving is progressing by making it competitive.

 

mbellracing

you are right, i cant start racing with a stock car,i need some extra punch to not disturb in the track.

I will start with the intake and header. I heard that a 4-1header is better for top rpm performance and 4-2-1 better for mid rpm performance. I supose i need top end rpm perforrmance for pure race use isnt?

Which brand of header you recommend me?? please best for the buck and from a store that ships to southamerica

Cheers

 

meh I disagree

 

You are just going to be wasting money with intake and exhaust. Brake pads and tires would be my first choice.

 

Starting out with so little experience in both driving and building a car, I would recommend starting in the shallow end of the pool. It's good to have an idea of what car to start with, and what class you want to build the car for, but adding 15hp to a poorly driven car just increases the speed you'll be going if (when?) you hit the wall. I recommend starting out doing driving schools (High Performance Driver Education, HPDE as they are called here in the states) with the car in dead stock trim. Once you can find your way around a race track at the limits of the car, then add brakes and suspension. Once you have all that sorted, then start adding power and get your racing license. That's my .02.

 

Driving and racing are two different things. Does the guy know how to drive - and by drive I mean within a few tenths of the potential of the car? You don't learn how to drive in a race. You do on the other hand learn how to race by racing, and you can't learn much about racing in an uncompetitive car, assuming you can't find good racing in a pack of likewise uncompetitive cars, which you usually can.

Ecosniper - tell us your story. What's your background? why are you doing this? Are you ready to see your car wadded up into a ball and burn to the ground? Etc.

Scott, who is sympathetic to the desire to race, but a real racers most valuable asset is their brain...I had to learn this...the hard way...many times...

 

For engine I'd say for a single cam goes as follows over bore .020 with d16a6 pistons (pm6) which will yield 11.5:1 compression ratio with decked block and head @ .020 each. Get your head ported and run a mild to aggressive cam. If you really want to go the extra step fabricate your self a set of itb's utilizing Cbr954 or 929 throttle assembly. This exact setup w/o vtec yielded me 159 whp and 142 whtq. Keep in mind that the bottom end is using all factory parts minus the rod bolts unless you can keep this rev happy setup under 7500rpms. I never dynoed the setup with vtec but it was much faster with it, once I got it working.

 

RR98ITR

First thank you all guys for the inputs.

Here in My country (Chile) there aren´t official Racing Schools, so the only way i can learn is driving in the track. Im Military Pilot, 31 age. Im doing this because now i have the Money and time to spend on it. I always loved Racing cars.

Yes, im ready for all. Im an airplane pilot by profession, so i must to be ready always for the worst of the situations.

I know that the safety is first, even in racing cars.

Maybe my miss was start with technician stuff, when the first advices i need are related with learn, practice the handling.

Please let me introduce a video of my track, you ´ll se the three categories Hyundai, Tourism (SOHC 1600cc) and TC 2000 (up to 2000 DOHC)

the surface ir rough and not the best quality.

http://vimeo.com/26348713

 

Very nice that filming model chopper

 

I agree, most passes are made in the braking zone. Traction and braking is key. Being able to out brake your competitors gives a lot of confidence. Also you say 1600cc, SOHC, no turbo... what about a supercharger?

 

Here is a recording from the ground, you can see better the track consistency

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zL6f...el_video_title

 

Sorry my fault. "only N/A engines"

If you see the video, the track hasnt lot of hard turns

 

Brakes/tires/suspension in that order > any power modifications

 

I personally think tires are a bit more important. Unless he's got DX brakes.

 

You can have the best tires in the world, but they arent any good if you can't stop sir

 

You can also have the best brakes in the world, they won't do you a dime of good on all season Uniroyals.

Stock civic brakes are "good." Perhaps the exception being DX brakes, EX brakes and a larger rotor to prevent brake fade is more than ample braking.

Not all tires are "okay"

 

that made me laugh pretty good.

it has been said before, brakes don't stop the car..tires do.

 

Indeed. Before I got my s2000 front brakes my DX front brakes had no problem locking up my 280 treadwear nitto neogens, they're pretty sticky for an all season tire. I put 5 autocross events on a pair and i enjoyed them. Stock civic brakes have plenty of muscle to stop really fast a few times. The main limitation for stock brakes is rotor mass i.e. brake fade. Which is why I upgraded to 10" rotors from my 8.5" DX brakes primarily. If I get EX knuckles my setup can run 11.5" rotors

Just got Yokohama S. Drives put on yesterday, that reminds me I haven't tried to lock them up in a straight line yet

 

Yup, brakes stop wheels, tires stop cars.

 

Hahaha I just mean get decent pads.. I had my stock eg CX brakes and rear drums forever no problem.. lifetime warranty AutoZone ceramic pads and cheap rotors were cheap and never faded or anything on me.. didn't mean get crazy into the brakes.. just decent pads without fluid leaks and your good.. no doubt tires are really important.. big safety hazard