All stock GS-R... lower??
I was told by a friend that coil over setups tend to be a bit too stiff for daily driver use... I do enjoy cornering hard but I like being able to handle speed bumps with ease as well.
I just bought my first Integra! I got a 1996 GS-R.
The same friend that told me about the coil over setups being stiff told me that because I would like to keep a close-to-stock height:
"run type R springs with Bilstein shocks (rear trailing arm is different but swapping it is not too big of a deal - basicly convert it to Type R w/ bilsteins. sway bars will be huge also as far as good handling w/ close to stock ride height"
The problem is I have no idea what he is talking about!!
The trailing arm?
Any suggestions from others on lowering/keeping stock height, and pros/cons of lowering vs not...
Thanks!
I just bought my first Integra! I got a 1996 GS-R.
The same friend that told me about the coil over setups being stiff told me that because I would like to keep a close-to-stock height:
"run type R springs with Bilstein shocks (rear trailing arm is different but swapping it is not too big of a deal - basicly convert it to Type R w/ bilsteins. sway bars will be huge also as far as good handling w/ close to stock ride height"
The problem is I have no idea what he is talking about!!
The trailing arm?
Any suggestions from others on lowering/keeping stock height, and pros/cons of lowering vs not...
Thanks!
daily driver = keep it at stock height.
Trust me. After 5 years of being lowered driving in daily L.A. traffic and college parking lots, I was finished. I'm now back to stock.
Trust me. After 5 years of being lowered driving in daily L.A. traffic and college parking lots, I was finished. I'm now back to stock.
Your drunk bro, if you spend your money on a good coilover setup you wont be disappointed. I spent about 900 on my function and form type 2, and I'm slammed. It rides like a dream!!! There 36 way adjustable and there on setting 15. Bottom line is if you spend the money you wont be but hurt like this guy.
Lots of people lower their cars and/or run stiffer springs, and whether it's worth the compromise is subjective and a matter of personal opinion. The only real way to know what you prefer is to find a car with stiffer springs and ride in it.
If you're worried that you don't want stiffer springs, then upgrading your rear sway bar to an ITR bar is a cost efficient solution that dramatically improves handling without significantly altering ride quality. See my how-to install guide for more info
Uprading to ITR shocks/springs is certainly an option. AFIK it's the LCA and shock that are different, not the rear trailing arm. This is a good thing because replacing the rear trailing arm is NOT trivial. But if you're swapping out the springs anyways, getting stock ITR shocks doesn't give a significant advantage over aftermarket full coilovers.
Perhaps a better alternative is to switch to a well regarded aftermarket suspension with mild rates, such as Progress Comp II or Koni/GC with off-the-shelf rates. These also have the advantage of being height adjustable and in the case of the Konis shock-valve adjustable (a double-edged sword, IMO).
By comparison, spring rates F/R
Stock GS-R: 212/117
ITR: 246/246
Progress Comp II: 350/250
Koni GC: 380/250
If you're worried that you don't want stiffer springs, then upgrading your rear sway bar to an ITR bar is a cost efficient solution that dramatically improves handling without significantly altering ride quality. See my how-to install guide for more info
Uprading to ITR shocks/springs is certainly an option. AFIK it's the LCA and shock that are different, not the rear trailing arm. This is a good thing because replacing the rear trailing arm is NOT trivial. But if you're swapping out the springs anyways, getting stock ITR shocks doesn't give a significant advantage over aftermarket full coilovers.
Perhaps a better alternative is to switch to a well regarded aftermarket suspension with mild rates, such as Progress Comp II or Koni/GC with off-the-shelf rates. These also have the advantage of being height adjustable and in the case of the Konis shock-valve adjustable (a double-edged sword, IMO).
By comparison, spring rates F/R
Stock GS-R: 212/117
ITR: 246/246
Progress Comp II: 350/250
Koni GC: 380/250
I jus got my 94 Gsr not too long ago as well and I lowered it using the tein s tech springs and it rides good for using the stock shocks and it's not too low when I go up bumps and stuff
tein makes a great spring for the integra. both the H and S tech are based on itr rates but 15-20% stiffer. the H tech is about as good as it gets for a DD spring. lower than the stock springs but stiff enough to bottom out even less. the S tech is pretty low and there is no tire/fender gap. H tech is roughly a 2 finger gap
as for ground control. rates are user chosen. you can pick any number you want for spring rates
as for ground control. rates are user chosen. you can pick any number you want for spring rates
Thanks for the responses! Of course you've spawned more questions!
Is there any reason to change over to the ITR suspension vs keeping/upgrading what I have on the GSR already?
How much height adjustment do you really get from changeable systems?
If you had a 100% stock GS-R to start with from scratch... what would you do? Daily driver and occasional track dreams...
Thanks again for the info, very happy I was pushed to this site by my friend!
Is there any reason to change over to the ITR suspension vs keeping/upgrading what I have on the GSR already?
How much height adjustment do you really get from changeable systems?
If you had a 100% stock GS-R to start with from scratch... what would you do? Daily driver and occasional track dreams...
Thanks again for the info, very happy I was pushed to this site by my friend!
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I'm 36, back is pretty good, and I have no problems getting in and out of the NSX (not mine... I wish... that's someday someday s o m e d a y...).
My main concern is street use. Like you said, scraping on speed bumps and driveways. I don't want to be one of these guys who has to complete stop to prevent scrapage. (I almost rear end those guys all the time... no warning, they just slam on brakes and stop!)
My first mods, well not really mods but more investments, will be an alarm and paint. The paint on this car gave up a long time ago. I just spent a lot of time cleaning the engine compartment and its shinier and better looking than the hood now! If it wasn't for rust I wouldn't worry.
Also an alarm (probably before anything else). Any recommendations? The last alarm I bought was in like 1989 and went off with about 14 different annoying alarm tones lol! I know the tech has changed a LOT and companies I used to know don't even exist anymore...
After that all my re-pretty is done (car has a great interior but the outside definitely shows its age+some) and I will be looking to update/upgrade/change the suspension before I do anything to the motor. I can hear how old the suspension is with every dip (lots in San Diego) and speed bump I hit!
My main concern is street use. Like you said, scraping on speed bumps and driveways. I don't want to be one of these guys who has to complete stop to prevent scrapage. (I almost rear end those guys all the time... no warning, they just slam on brakes and stop!)
My first mods, well not really mods but more investments, will be an alarm and paint. The paint on this car gave up a long time ago. I just spent a lot of time cleaning the engine compartment and its shinier and better looking than the hood now! If it wasn't for rust I wouldn't worry.
Also an alarm (probably before anything else). Any recommendations? The last alarm I bought was in like 1989 and went off with about 14 different annoying alarm tones lol! I know the tech has changed a LOT and companies I used to know don't even exist anymore...
After that all my re-pretty is done (car has a great interior but the outside definitely shows its age+some) and I will be looking to update/upgrade/change the suspension before I do anything to the motor. I can hear how old the suspension is with every dip (lots in San Diego) and speed bump I hit!
The problem with awesome forums full of great info such as this one is there is so much information! And not all of it is current... I have done a lot of post readings and I am up against things like having to figure out what "ITR" means. (Integra Type R... it took me a day or two...)
I'm a computer guy... you need a system built, laptop repaired, I can do that. But cars are an area where I know enough to be dangerous but not enough terminology to do coherent searches resulting in up to date relevant information I can learn from and then use to search out even more knowledge. The responses you have given me here have already increased my understanding of what I am up against, and I do very much appreciate you helping out a total newbie. The more I post the more specific the questions will be, and the less information repetition will be necessary because I will know how to find what I need instead of asking basic questions.
I'm a computer guy... you need a system built, laptop repaired, I can do that. But cars are an area where I know enough to be dangerous but not enough terminology to do coherent searches resulting in up to date relevant information I can learn from and then use to search out even more knowledge. The responses you have given me here have already increased my understanding of what I am up against, and I do very much appreciate you helping out a total newbie. The more I post the more specific the questions will be, and the less information repetition will be necessary because I will know how to find what I need instead of asking basic questions.
Also as a less-than-15-day member I don't have access to many of the other forum areas... I only asked advice for an alarm... I didn't realize there was an alarm section! I've already visited the appearance section and started reading up on paint. I have questions there too but I can wait my 15 days.
There is *almost* no advantage to going to an ITR suspension if you are planning on using aftermarket springs and/or shocks. Once the difference in spring rates (and possibly shock valving) is out of the picture, the only advantage ITR has is that the lower control arms are slightly more aerodynamic.
If you're concerned about ride height and stiffness, Koni yellow shocks on ground control coilovers are a good place to start. They let you adjust from 0-3" drop so you can stay at or near stock height, and the OTS rates (380/250) are close to ITR rates so shouldn't be too extreme for daily driving by most standards. Of course, ground control offers a very wide range of rate options.
I agree that an ITR sway bar is a very good place to start. It substantially improves handling with barely any ride sacrifice (you'll notice it on l/r uneven surfaces like pockmarked roads and that's it).
If you're concerned about ride height and stiffness, Koni yellow shocks on ground control coilovers are a good place to start. They let you adjust from 0-3" drop so you can stay at or near stock height, and the OTS rates (380/250) are close to ITR rates so shouldn't be too extreme for daily driving by most standards. Of course, ground control offers a very wide range of rate options.
I agree that an ITR sway bar is a very good place to start. It substantially improves handling with barely any ride sacrifice (you'll notice it on l/r uneven surfaces like pockmarked roads and that's it).
As for the lowering, like was said, Tein makes a good spring. I will personally be using the H tech because I don't personally want to go too low, I just want to look good lol.
As for the alarm, I'd refer to this thread:https://honda-tech.com/forums/audio-security-video-27/car-alarm-guide-how-pick-out-security-system-meet-your-needs-open-2518715/ . It's incredibly epic and the poster is knowledgeable and knows what he's saying.
The fact that you're starting with an alarm is extremely wise of you. Like was said before, make sure it's a quality one with a full stealth install. I'd also look into getting OnStar on top of your alarm as well. It's quite expensive, but it has a damn good rate of getting your vehicle back.
I have a 97 GS, completely stock when I got her (May 10, 2011) and is still extremely stock lol.
What I've started at with all of my cars were getting better visibility (HID kit), better braking (slotted and drilled rotors (all have been from R1Concepts, no complaints)), then suspension. After that, I get exhaust, body parts, then security.
But what I've done with the GS is I've gotten the HID kit and brakes. Next to happen will be a drop and other suspension parts, then an exhaust. After that will be security (Viper alarm with OnStar), then the body work.
As for the alarm, I'd refer to this thread:https://honda-tech.com/forums/audio-security-video-27/car-alarm-guide-how-pick-out-security-system-meet-your-needs-open-2518715/ . It's incredibly epic and the poster is knowledgeable and knows what he's saying.
The fact that you're starting with an alarm is extremely wise of you. Like was said before, make sure it's a quality one with a full stealth install. I'd also look into getting OnStar on top of your alarm as well. It's quite expensive, but it has a damn good rate of getting your vehicle back.
What I've started at with all of my cars were getting better visibility (HID kit), better braking (slotted and drilled rotors (all have been from R1Concepts, no complaints)), then suspension. After that, I get exhaust, body parts, then security.
But what I've done with the GS is I've gotten the HID kit and brakes. Next to happen will be a drop and other suspension parts, then an exhaust. After that will be security (Viper alarm with OnStar), then the body work.
I still like mine. Brakes a ton better which, to me, means I have a better chance avoiding an accident if someone busts out in front of me.
EDIT: ALSO!! I priced rotors from Advanced Auto, Autozone, and O'Rileys and the cheapest I've found was $250. The slotted and drilled rotors with ceramic pads cost me $190 shipped.
EDIT: ALSO!! I priced rotors from Advanced Auto, Autozone, and O'Rileys and the cheapest I've found was $250. The slotted and drilled rotors with ceramic pads cost me $190 shipped.
There is *almost* no advantage to going to an ITR suspension if you are planning on using aftermarket springs and/or shocks. Once the difference in spring rates (and possibly shock valving) is out of the picture, the only advantage ITR has is that the lower control arms are slightly more aerodynamic.
If you're concerned about ride height and stiffness, Koni yellow shocks on ground control coilovers are a good place to start. They let you adjust from 0-3" drop so you can stay at or near stock height, and the OTS rates (380/250) are close to ITR rates so shouldn't be too extreme for daily driving by most standards. Of course, ground control offers a very wide range of rate options.
I agree that an ITR sway bar is a very good place to start. It substantially improves handling with barely any ride sacrifice (you'll notice it on l/r uneven surfaces like pockmarked roads and that's it).
If you're concerned about ride height and stiffness, Koni yellow shocks on ground control coilovers are a good place to start. They let you adjust from 0-3" drop so you can stay at or near stock height, and the OTS rates (380/250) are close to ITR rates so shouldn't be too extreme for daily driving by most standards. Of course, ground control offers a very wide range of rate options.
I agree that an ITR sway bar is a very good place to start. It substantially improves handling with barely any ride sacrifice (you'll notice it on l/r uneven surfaces like pockmarked roads and that's it).
I'm waiting on my LCA's to install my ITR struts/springs. I'll let everyone know how it compares to stock. I agree the Koni/GC is a superior set-up but for a 1/3 of the price you get a proven OEM design.
So OP if you want to keep close to stock ride height. ITR set-up only drops you 15mm or a little over a half inch and from what I've read stiffens up the ride but still ride nice. Or you could always a nice set of aftermarket struts paired with ITR springs and not have to worry about swapping out your LCA's.
get some good suspension and slam that thing...idk why all these ppl cry about stiff rides, its uncomfortable..blaa blaa blaa...if you want it lowered then lower it, ive slammed every single car ive ever owned since i had my license and im not goin back...do what you like, dont listen to anybody else...
OP - What is your budget? Everything is based on your budget. You mentioned it's a DD with the dream of tracking it.
1. OEM ITR is a option but I don't have experience with and it's still stock height.
2. Eibach or H&R sport springs are good. They're cheap used for under $100. If lucky to find w/ matching shocks. Used shock/springs around $300-$500
3. GC/Koni Yellows is around $850 new. Adjustable shock and spring rate and height from soft to hard.
You can have a new ITR rear sway bar for $100, $20 for bushings and BSQ* kit for $20 to reinforce the sub-frame. ( ASR/Beaks kit is not required**) I'm gonna get flamed.
My old Integra RS(DC4) had the GC/Koni's(street I think), ITR rear sway bar and ITR 5-lug. It was awesome! Turn it up to max firm, hugs every turn and I felt like I can rule the streets! But I don't have it anymore because I got T-boned by a red light runner.
:wah:
1. OEM ITR is a option but I don't have experience with and it's still stock height.
2. Eibach or H&R sport springs are good. They're cheap used for under $100. If lucky to find w/ matching shocks. Used shock/springs around $300-$500
3. GC/Koni Yellows is around $850 new. Adjustable shock and spring rate and height from soft to hard.
You can have a new ITR rear sway bar for $100, $20 for bushings and BSQ* kit for $20 to reinforce the sub-frame. ( ASR/Beaks kit is not required**) I'm gonna get flamed.
My old Integra RS(DC4) had the GC/Koni's(street I think), ITR rear sway bar and ITR 5-lug. It was awesome! Turn it up to max firm, hugs every turn and I felt like I can rule the streets! But I don't have it anymore because I got T-boned by a red light runner.
:wah:
ASR/Beaks kit* is that the extra plate installed in the tutorial listed earlier in this thread??
Thanks for all the great info! I have decided to wait on making any suspension decisions until my friend gets his Integra back from having a chewed valve fixed. He's got a Tokico Illumina setup. He says its too soft, but he has access to a few other setups as well... I know I can drive his, I hope the other guys will let me test drive theirs too before I make a decision!
Budget? Well... that depends on how much work I get... I'm freelance so when I work I make great money.
As my main budget the next few months is going into security (assuming I can find someone that can/will do a quality stealth install...) it sounds like an ITR conversion might be a good first step. Extra performance, small drop, and I can always upgrade the ITR with some coil overs or advanced gear later I guess...
Adjustable height and stiffness would be awesome!
Thanks for all the great info! I have decided to wait on making any suspension decisions until my friend gets his Integra back from having a chewed valve fixed. He's got a Tokico Illumina setup. He says its too soft, but he has access to a few other setups as well... I know I can drive his, I hope the other guys will let me test drive theirs too before I make a decision!
Budget? Well... that depends on how much work I get... I'm freelance so when I work I make great money.
As my main budget the next few months is going into security (assuming I can find someone that can/will do a quality stealth install...) it sounds like an ITR conversion might be a good first step. Extra performance, small drop, and I can always upgrade the ITR with some coil overs or advanced gear later I guess...
Adjustable height and stiffness would be awesome!
very stiff suspension equals comfy ride to me :DDDDDDDDDDD coilovers arent that bad, keep it at a reasonable height and it will daily fine, and plus itll be perfect for spirited driving..just cause you have coilovers doesnt mean you HAVE to dump it. i mean its fun though HAHA but if youre gonna complain then you cant handle it
i think function and forms are pretty decent for their prices. had mine for about 8months or so, its not as stiff as i want but its still okay. for 500 bucks thought im not complaining
lowered but not slammed, easily dailyied at my height. i could could basically clear all the speed bumps if it wasnt for my lip
lowered but not slammed, easily dailyied at my height. i could could basically clear all the speed bumps if it wasnt for my lip



