I disconnected my rear swaybar and I don't miss it one dam bit
The car still turns in fine and has a much more stable feel on bumpy roads. I can charge deep into the apex of tight bumpy switchbacks and the rear is much more stable and doesn't bounce around. Drop the inside wheel past the white line Initial D style, no problem. I decided that the purpose of the inside rear is to keep traction and help stabilize the car, not lift up into the air to make the rear swing out.
Spring rates are F 425 and R 250, with lots of suspension travel compared to some of you other guys that ride on the bump stops. This is not a smooth track setup but a bumpy road setup that gets me to my mountain biking locations in a safe yet expeditious manner.
One thing I do miss is the horrible creaking and popping noises that the swaybar made.
Spring rates are F 425 and R 250, with lots of suspension travel compared to some of you other guys that ride on the bump stops. This is not a smooth track setup but a bumpy road setup that gets me to my mountain biking locations in a safe yet expeditious manner.
One thing I do miss is the horrible creaking and popping noises that the swaybar made.
With only 250lb rear springs, the swaybar must have contributed a decent amount to your roll stiffness back there. Was it taken into account when you revalved the shocks?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Between Willow, and Button Willow, CA, USA
Hahaha. So much wrong with that whole post.
One setup does not suit all. It's great that you removed the bar and like it, but there is a reason that proper race cars have them!
425/250. Yep, street setup for sure!
One setup does not suit all. It's great that you removed the bar and like it, but there is a reason that proper race cars have them!
425/250. Yep, street setup for sure!
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