Doing TimBelt...need help with rear engin mount..?do/dont the oil pan gasket as well?
I am replacing the rear engine mount on my 92 Accord EX coupe.
Can anyone give some tips or advice it looks like it could be a real PITA.
Due to all the stuff in the way.
Also contemplating doing my oil pan gasket...since I am doing the timing belt right now...but due to just being tired I was thinking of splitting the job up.
And maybe doing the oil pan after the summer is gone. Since it too seems involved. Anyone have a reason for me to do the oil pan gasket now while i still have the timing covers off?
Also the blasted crank sprocket will not come off...is it expensive?...cuz I am considering cracking it off with a chisel and sliding on a new one. i am not leaving that 20 yr old crank seal in there...plus I bought and paid for the replacement piece already.
Can anyone give some tips or advice it looks like it could be a real PITA.
Due to all the stuff in the way.
Also contemplating doing my oil pan gasket...since I am doing the timing belt right now...but due to just being tired I was thinking of splitting the job up.
And maybe doing the oil pan after the summer is gone. Since it too seems involved. Anyone have a reason for me to do the oil pan gasket now while i still have the timing covers off?
Also the blasted crank sprocket will not come off...is it expensive?...cuz I am considering cracking it off with a chisel and sliding on a new one. i am not leaving that 20 yr old crank seal in there...plus I bought and paid for the replacement piece already.
Last edited by L2ILL; Jun 27, 2011 at 10:23 AM. Reason: phrase
Not sure about the rear engine mount.
However if you are looking to do the oil pan gasket with little to no worries you should drop the exhaust. Best to unbolt it from the head and the back of the block and drop the hole front part vs trying to unbolt the manifold from the down pipe. this will give you more room to drop the pan and get the new one in place. I have read that people don't drop the pan and somehow shimmy the gasket in there.... I always drop the exhaust. it's only 11 bolts and 1 exhaust gasket. (9 on the manifold 2 on the back of the block)
As for the crankshaft timing gear. That could take some PB plaster or WD-40, a little bit of heat a rubber mallet and a small pry bar/screwdriver to get it off. Or a simple 2 arm pulley puller will crack that little bastard off very easily as well. Not sure if you can rent these from local autoparts stores in your area or not.
However if you are looking to do the oil pan gasket with little to no worries you should drop the exhaust. Best to unbolt it from the head and the back of the block and drop the hole front part vs trying to unbolt the manifold from the down pipe. this will give you more room to drop the pan and get the new one in place. I have read that people don't drop the pan and somehow shimmy the gasket in there.... I always drop the exhaust. it's only 11 bolts and 1 exhaust gasket. (9 on the manifold 2 on the back of the block)
As for the crankshaft timing gear. That could take some PB plaster or WD-40, a little bit of heat a rubber mallet and a small pry bar/screwdriver to get it off. Or a simple 2 arm pulley puller will crack that little bastard off very easily as well. Not sure if you can rent these from local autoparts stores in your area or not.
as Ghost said, dropping the exhaust is easiest. But as long as it isn't leaking now it can wait. It's not like you need the side covers or anything off to do the oil pan gasket.
If you have an AutoZone in your area, they rent out both 3-jaw and 2-jaw gear pullers.
here's a link to see the cost of the gear...
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHAFT+-+PISTON
If you have an AutoZone in your area, they rent out both 3-jaw and 2-jaw gear pullers.
here's a link to see the cost of the gear...
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHAFT+-+PISTON
Is the oil pan gasket a problem area with Accords? My 95 F22B2 has a slight drip that I can smell burning on the exhaust pipe when i stop after a trip. It's not allot, just a few drips over night but it irks me non the less. It does not look to be the valve cover gasket. I can see a drop hanging on the drain plug. Can't hurt to check the crush washer on the plug, but I was wondering if the oil pan gasket is a frequent flyer on my vintage Accords?
Steve I get the same oil buildup as well. I can tell you I have tightened all the oil pan gasket bolts down....and still get build up there.
There is a seal behind the oil cooler that presses up against the block....it's what you screw the filter onto...that used to be quite a douche of oil on my car....really took back the leak to little drops I see now.
But to be honest sometimes it seems like oil buildup leaks out from the intake manifold down.
There is a seal behind the oil cooler that presses up against the block....it's what you screw the filter onto...that used to be quite a douche of oil on my car....really took back the leak to little drops I see now.
But to be honest sometimes it seems like oil buildup leaks out from the intake manifold down.
L2ILL,
I would advise to just go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket while you're performing extensive/involved work on your Accord. I have seen the oil pan gasket fail on more than a few vintage Accords so it's always a sagacious idea to exercise proactive maintenance by swapping out a tired gasket before it fails at a most inopportune time.
A little tip for removing the oil pan- make sure that you remove the oil pan nuts/bolts (in a crisscross pattern) and the oil pan. (The bolts are illustrated in this diagram) If necessary, use a mallet to tap the corners of the oil pan. DO NOT pry on the pan to get it loose. I've seen oil pans get irrevocably warped because some ham-fisted mechanic went Arnold Schwarzenegger on the oil pan removal process..
I would advise to just go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket while you're performing extensive/involved work on your Accord. I have seen the oil pan gasket fail on more than a few vintage Accords so it's always a sagacious idea to exercise proactive maintenance by swapping out a tired gasket before it fails at a most inopportune time.
A little tip for removing the oil pan- make sure that you remove the oil pan nuts/bolts (in a crisscross pattern) and the oil pan. (The bolts are illustrated in this diagram) If necessary, use a mallet to tap the corners of the oil pan. DO NOT pry on the pan to get it loose. I've seen oil pans get irrevocably warped because some ham-fisted mechanic went Arnold Schwarzenegger on the oil pan removal process..
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